XR15 G5 3D Printed mounting!!! FINALLY !!!!

neon_reefer

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Hello everyone...

I recently noticed a spike in prices on parts for aquariums and the same time availability was limited....
I saw this as a problem that I can solve for myself and possibly other folks out there, so I decided to purchase a 3d printer (Prusa MK3 model) and start learning and printing. the results were frustrating at first, but i was dedicated to learning the CAD and slicer software... anyways, after an entire month of practicing, trial and error, and not giving up these, this is the result of my work. If anyone else needs help with parts to print or design, just message me... This part is available for purchase if you need... made from Prusamint PETG galaxy black plastic. strong, and heat resistant. this part is $14.99 includes stainless steel M5 hardware with black nylon washer.

This part mounts on to the RMS mount only. I can design and make any type of mounting support, for any type of LED light unit.
If you need to mount other brand to the RMS rail, this can be done..
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Vivid Creative Aquatics

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This looks good.

Only suggestion is mount and watch for sag after after a few weeks. that particular light doesn't have a lot of weigh to it, so it should be fine.

We have a prototype multi-mount design we created and have been testing for the the Neptune SKY and Radion XR30s. After about a month a few of our design iterations start to exbibit some sag due to weight, but otherwise preforms pretty well.
 
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neon_reefer

neon_reefer

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I took that into account and used an infill that will keep the frame rigid. my setup is open and not in a canopy, so it stays pretty cool, I believe the sagging happens from high temperatures flaws in the design and inferior material being used... you can always make a space in the design for a square rod to insert on the edges to keep it from sagging if it is a heavy unit. I will eventually make a 2nd and a 3rd version of this and make improvement over time.. but this is really good for the xr15 model.
 
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neon_reefer

neon_reefer

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How are these holding up?
They are the same as the day I put them on... no sagging or any weak spots.. I did make a couple of tweaks to the design to make them even stronger, and to sit more flush on the surface... I have been selling them and the feedback has been great..
 

slythy

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Only change I would make is I would put a large fillet where the T connects to the base. it will just make it quite a bit stronger and stop it from delaminating if it starts too.
 
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neon_reefer

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Only change I would make is I would put a large fillet where the T connects to the base. it will just make it quite a bit stronger and stop it from delaminating if it starts too.
There is no way this will delaminate. the T connectors are part of the fill frame, and so it is a part of the foundation.

Another reason why it will not delaminate, is because all of my filament that I use is made in USA, and is not recycled plastic, and is always dry. PETG is very strong for this application.

I use a professional filament dryer to make sure the quality is consistent and of a higher standard.

I do appreciate everyone's comments and advice that comes along.

Thank you.
 

slythy

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It looks like its printed with a FDM printer. No matter how you print that with whatever material you use, that is a separate layer and the 90* angle is a massive stress riser. I'm not saying statically it will break but I think if you bump it just right its got a decent change of giving up. For a spot that has massive amounts of clearance and doesn't affect how its hung, its significantly better practice to radius it and that goes for any design that has right angles. Unless you absolutely need it a radius adds significant amounts of strength for such a little amount of space. Even where it rests on the rail I would have put a small radius.

Ty7JWaZ.jpg
 
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It looks like its printed with a FDM printer. No matter how you print that with whatever material you use, that is a separate layer and the 90* angle is a massive stress riser. I'm not saying statically it will break but I think if you bump it just right its got a decent change of giving up. For a spot that has massive amounts of clearance and doesn't affect how its hung, its significantly better practice to radius it and that goes for any design that has right angles. Unless you absolutely need it a radius adds significant amounts of strength for such a little amount of space. Even where it rests on the rail I would have put a small radius.

Ty7JWaZ.jpg
The only stress that can cause it to break is a hammer, If your implying that this design is not strong enough, it's because you never tested it yourself. If you would like to test it yourself and find out, I can send you a part at the cost of the shipping, and you can show everyone the results yourself.
 
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slythy

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The only stress that can cause it to break is a hammer, If your implying that this design is not strong enough, it's because you never tested it yourself. If you would like to test it yourself and find out, I can send you a part at the cost of the shipping, and you can show everyone the results yourself.

Its not a dig at you man. I'm sure its plenty strong and will do the job fine. It seems like a good design that works for you. But if you added fillets there then it would be even stronger for really no cost.
 
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neon_reefer

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Its not a dig at you man. I'm sure its plenty strong and will do the job fine. It seems like a good design that works for you. But if you added fillets there then it would be even stronger for really no cost.
what is the point that you are trying to make? do you own a 3d printer? have you ever printed anything?

Do you think that I will sell something without testing it myself on my own tank?
sounds like you are just trying to hate...
 

slythy

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what is the point that you are trying to make? do you own a 3d printer? have you ever printed anything?

Do you think that I will sell something without testing it myself on my own tank?
sounds like you are just trying to hate...

I'm a design / R&D engineer in Indycar, just trying to help you out. We have access to multiple types of 3d printers that range between a couple hundred dollars all the way up to half a million with the ability to print some crazy things including metal.

I'm not saying you arent testing it as you clearly have it installed on your tank.

No hate, just help from someone with some experience.
 
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neon_reefer

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I'm a design / R&D engineer in Indycar, just trying to help you out. We have access to multiple types of 3d printers that range between a couple hundred dollars all the way up to half a million with the ability to print some crazy things including metal.

I'm not saying you arent testing it as you clearly have it installed on your tank.

No hate, just help from someone with some experience.
I'm glad this is not an indycar over my tank
 

mav3rick478

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Wow that escalated quickly. Was going to ask for the STL so i could work of it for my AI lights but the way you handled some questions and knowledgeable critiques leaves a bad taste in my mouth. And before you question me, yes i do have an FDM and even with a 100% infill of PETG things will break. I printed a Par Meter holder and pole and my wife asked how strong is it, can i try bending it and snapped it. Pole was 0.25" thick, remember these are layers printed on top of each other. Think of it in terms of wheels for cars what's stronger forged or cast, forged because it pressure molded from one piece of billet. Cast is melted and poured into a mold which is similar to an FDM printer.

And like stated before a 90° angle versus a radius corner is weaker and breaks easier. Its simply physics.
 
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neon_reefer

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Wow that escalated quickly. Was going to ask for the STL so i could work of it for my AI lights but the way you handled some questions and knowledgeable critiques leaves a bad taste in my mouth. And before you question me, yes i do have an FDM and even with a 100% infill of PETG things will break. I printed a Par Meter holder and pole and my wife asked how strong is it, can i try bending it and snapped it. Pole was 0.25" thick, remember these are layers printed on top of each other. Think of it in terms of wheels for cars what's stronger forged or cast, forged because it pressure molded from one piece of billet. Cast is melted and poured into a mold which is similar to an FDM printer.

And like stated before a 90° angle versus a radius corner is weaker and breaks easier. Its simply physics.
where did you purchase your filament? there are filaments that will break because they are recycled material and have a weak thermal adhesion.

Everyone has something to say without knowing the facts. I worked on Superbikes for years laying down carbon fiber and fiberglass parts, so I know a thing or two on material quality and adhesion strength, there are 3d HEX infills that can mitigate the weak point and make a great difference in the quality of the strength.

there is an file for the AI that will fit the RMS mount on thingiverse.

here is the link,, I hope this helps.

 

mav3rick478

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where did you purchase your filament? there are filaments that will break because they are recycled material and have a weak thermal adhesion.

Everyone has something to say without knowing the facts. I worked on Superbikes for years laying down carbon fiber and fiberglass parts, so I know a thing or two on material quality and adhesion strength, there are 3d HEX infills that can mitigate the weak point and make a great difference in the quality of the strength.

there is an file for the AI that will fit the RMS mount on thingiverse.

here is the link,, I hope this helps.

Yes everyone has something to say but how you handled it was very aggressive and condescending. He only stated some critiques from his professional experiences and you weren't having any of it. He answered your questions and even said he wasn't taking any digs on you and was offering sound advice and let you know where he was coming from with their advice. No where in your thread did you state where your expertise was, you just said you took the time and effort to learn about CAD and slicing software. Which is good on you. So maybe next time someone says something on one of your thread you can approach it differently.

To answer your questions:
Filament was bought on Amazon by my wife, printer was a Christmas present. It's Duramic PETG, not the best but a descent brand to work with to get my feet wet and not feel bad when the print fails.

Trying to fully learn Fusion or learn enough to do what i want which is print stuff for my reef tank but life always seems to get in the way. I come from 2d printing industry with a graphic design background.

Thanks for the link, it's sometimes hard to filter through searches on Thingiverse.
 
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neon_reefer

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Yes everyone has something to say but how you handled it was very aggressive and condescending. He only stated some critiques from his professional experiences and you weren't having any of it. He answered your questions and even said he wasn't taking any digs on you and was offering sound advice and let you know where he was coming from with their advice. No where in your thread did you state where your expertise was, you just said you took the time and effort to learn about CAD and slicing software. Which is good on you. So maybe next time someone says something on one of your thread you can approach it differently.

To answer your questions:
Filament was bought on Amazon by my wife, printer was a Christmas present. It's Duramic PETG, not the best but a descent brand to work with to get my feet wet and not feel bad when the print fails.

Trying to fully learn Fusion or learn enough to do what i want which is print stuff for my reef tank but life always seems to get in the way. I come from 2d printing industry with a graphic design background.

Thanks for the link, it's sometimes hard to filter through searches on Thingiverse.
1. How do I know that this guy is really an engineer, and not just someone who is hating?

2. I have over 6 years experience in 2d cad by working on a cnc machine I own. so transitioning to 3d modeling was very fast for me, as I already have the 2d CAD experience.

3. what difference does adding the fillet make, when the point he was making was that delamination will happen in regards to the part being printed in layers?

If the Layering is going to cause it to delaminate, how is a fillet going to make it stronger? its still layered...... unless I'm planning to inject mold the part, that would be a different argument all together.


I love everyone, but if you are going to hate, I will challenge you by proving me wrong, and he did not accept the challenge. I already strapped a 35lbs weight as a test to make sure it will hold, and it did without any issues...

amazon filament, is all recycled plastic from China. If you are looking for a high quality plastic material, I can only recommend www.printedsolids.com. All of their filaments are made in the USA, you will find that their quality is night and day compared to amazon filament.

They also have hybrid filaments like nylon/carbon fiber which I use for parts that need over 55Kg support.
 

slythy

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1. How do I know that this guy is really an engineer, and not just someone who is hating?

2. I have over 6 years experience in 2d cad by working on a cnc machine I own. so transitioning to 3d modeling was very fast for me, as I already have the 2d CAD experience.

3. what difference does adding the fillet make, when the point he was making was that delamination will happen in regards to the part being printed in layers?

If the Layering is going to cause it to delaminate, how is a fillet going to make it stronger? its still layered...... unless I'm planning to inject mold the part, that would be a different argument all together.


I love everyone, but if you are going to hate, I will challenge you by proving me wrong, and he did not accept the challenge. I already strapped a 35lbs weight as a test to make sure it will hold, and it did without any issues...

amazon filament, is all recycled plastic from China. If you are looking for a high quality plastic material, I can only recommend www.printedsolids.com. All of their filaments are made in the USA, you will find that their quality is night and day compared to amazon filament.

They also have hybrid filaments like nylon/carbon fiber which I use for parts that need over 55Kg support.


1)
Graduated with a Purdue Engineering Degree, here is my current Indycar Hard card and my 3 rings from my 3 indy500 wins.

fp3QDOi.jpeg


2) Great

3) Creating the fillets not only increases strength by removing stress risers but increase surface area (depending on the size of the fillet 25-100%+ more) for adhesion. You are basically making it harder to peal off because you have way more area where the layers are sticking together. Imagine a little dot attaching a layer to something or a solid 1" circle one will be harder to remove. Also the reason why your support material isnt a solid block and done in thin removable layers.


4?)

"I love everyone, but if you are going to hate, I will challenge you by proving me wrong, and he did not accept the challenge. I already strapped a 35lbs weight as a test to make sure it will hold, and it did without any issues..."

Great! I never said it wouldnt work for you. Testing in a single axis it would probably prove pretty strong, if you where to bump it while loaded would it yield? I dont know and I honestly dont have the time or energy to prove out your product. I would worry if it were over MY tank that if I bump it that it would break and fall in the tank. With how expensive XR15's are I would over build it since I personally dont want to buy a replacement.


I dont care what filament you use tbh all I was saying is you could increase the strength and longevity of your design by adding some fillets. Its a nice design that makes it easy to mount on the rail.


Ps I appreciate the petty comments in my build thread, I can tell your not a salty person lol
 

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