Yellow Coris wrasse

[spectreknight]

I need to QT a yellow coris wrasse and a foxface. I would like to put them in the same tank and want to use prazi for the first part of QT and then move to copper power. I know that wrasses have a reputation of not handling copper well, but I really want to make sure I keep ICH out of the DT and want to get both fish through QT at the same time. They are being moved from my old tank to my new one and unfortunately I only have time to do one round of QT before I need to leave for a deployment. If it won't work then the coris will have to stay in my old tank and wait till I return from my trip. I am hoping that I can get them both done and the old tank can become fallow while I am gone and when I get back I can then move over the corals.

 

[dwest]

I need to QT a yellow coris wrasse and a foxface. I would like to put them in the same tank and want to use prazi for the first part of QT and then move to copper power. I know that wrasses have a reputation of not handling copper well, but I really want to make sure I keep ICH out of the DT and want to get both fish through QT at the same time. They are being moved from my old tank to my new one and unfortunately I only have time to do one round of QT before I need to leave for a deployment. If it won't work then the coris will have to stay in my old tank and wait till I return from my trip. I am hoping that I can get them both done and the old tank can become fallow while I am gone and when I get back I can then move over the corals.

I used copper on all my wrasses when I quarantined them. I used copper power. The key IMO is to use the Hanna copper checker to accurately test for copper.

 

[PSU4ME]

I did those same two fish with GC, metro and copper power and they didn’t flinch. I think you’ll be fine

 

[spectreknight]

I used copper on all my wrasses when I quarantined them. I used copper power. The key IMO is to use the Hanna copper checker to accurately test for copper.

Thanks did you run CP at the lower range or the full 2?

 

[spectreknight]

I did those same two fish with GC, metro and copper power and they didn’t flinch. I think you’ll be fine

Were you able to use GC, Metro and CP at the same time? If so I will pickup some GC as I only have Prazipro on hand right now.

 

[dwest]

Thanks did you run CP at the lower range or the full 2?

I did 1.75 because that was the r2r recommendation when I did it. I wouldn’t hesitate trying 2.0 as that is the revised best practice.

 

[dwest]

This is what I did

My Current QT Process

UPDATE, 10/9/22: For those looking for quarantine information, our current process is kept updated on the first page of this thread (post any questions at the end of the thread). https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/current-quarantine-protocol.825055/ Thanks, Jay Hemdal I am frequently...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I'm not sure why almost everyone here runs prazi first and then copper. I am going to try really hard to change that order because it is dead wrong! Praziquantel, as you know treats for metazoans such a gyrodactylus flukes. These typically do not become a problem until after you have had the fish for 3 to 5 weeks. Protozoans on the other hand, are treated with copper and these can become an issue literally within days of acquiring new fish. Therefore, start with copper and move onto prazi afterwards. If you need to, you can run copper and prazi concurrently, but that is a hassle due to redosing copper after water changes, and is a bit rough on some fish.

As said - use the Hanna checker.

The other bad information I am trying to fix is people taking ten days (or so) to ramp up their copper, or drop into hyposalinity....too many times I see people lose fish because they again, were too slow in starting an anti-protozoan Rx. At most, take 3 days for either copper ramp up or hypo drop down. I usually do this in just one day myself.

Jay

 

[PSU4ME]

I would follow @Humblefish advice on a treatment schedule. Wrasses are more sensitive to copper which is why the longer ramp is suggested. 2.5ppm is the newest level recommended and I haven’t had any issues with it as long as you’re buying quality fish. GC/metro schedules can work hand in hand with copper power. The only trick is being able to manage water changes while maintaining proper levels.

 

[spectreknight]

Thanks. I bought the hanna checker after I got home and tried using the seachem kit and the shades of blue drove me mad. I literally got back in the car and drove right back to the fish store and bought the hanna. I didn't think I would need the hanna at first as I figured the round of QT would be a handful of times once i got the tank stocked i would be good. I am glad now i bought it as it is coming right back into use now that I am upgrading my tank.

I have some CP and general cure on the way now. Once I get the new tank cycled the current batch of fish in QT will be ready to go in. Then I will qt the foxface and coris and get them for sure clear. I have had them for a while along with the green mandarin, yellow goby, and pistol shrimp. I am thinking the goby and pistol shrimp maybe getting re-homed. Not loving how the pistol shrimp moves all the sand around, plus I hardly see it and the goby. Going to have to tank transfer the mandarin.

 

[spectreknight]

Meant to say in the last post I am QTing the old fish because I have seen the coris flash occasionally and just want to go the safe route as I am going to a 75 gallon and will be stocking some of the fish from the dream sheet.