Yellowstripe clingfish--Diademichthys lineatus Breeding

ShannPeach

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In February I saw two of these fish at my LFS. I did a little research on my phone while there and didn't come up with too much other than they live with Diadema urchins or branching corals and eat the tube feet of the urchin and also the copepods and the eggs of a commensal shrimp. They also eat burrowing bivalves in coral colonies. Since I culture several different copepods and also hatch and grow brine shrimp, I thought I would give them a whirl.

Once home, I did some more research and realized I had two females. You can tell the difference based on snout shape. Females have long, thin snouts and males have short, wide snouts. Here are the two females in their breeder basket in QT:




Initially I fed live foods, but within a couple days both were eagerly eating Nutramar Ova from a dish (eventually they learned to stab the food out of the water column, but at first they often missed more than they got). In April (IIRC) I was able to get several more of these. Of the twenty or so I have seen at the LFS or have ordered online, only 3 have been males. I purchased two males and two additional females. They were moved to a 12 gallon biocube for QT. Here is a pic of a female:

Males:

Male in a clam shell (in the wild they use empty bivalve shells as spawning sites):


Males and females together for snout comparison:


The males were harder to train onto ova. The smaller male never really ate well and eventually died, leaving me with one male and four females. This was actually an ideal ratio for several reasons. In the wild males often eat (and sometimes ONLY eat) the eggs from the nests to maintain body condition. They don't leave the nest so other males can't steal the rare bivalve spawning sites and rely on the eggs for food (it's called partial filial cannibalism, here is a paper about it and this species:http://www.sekj.org/PDF/anzf45/anzf45-055.pdf ). Having only one male limits any male-male competition, which hopefully would equate in a captive environment to a male that doesn't eat eggs since he can leave the nest to eat. Also, having many females laying eggs would mean that if he does eat the eggs, there still should be plenty left that make it to hatching.

In the cube, all five fish get along relatively well. The only aggression or posturing I see between the females is when they are waiting to be fed. After all were taking Nutramar Ova readily, I began feed enriched live brine that was partially grown out to encourage them to eat slightly larger food items. They have very small mouths, so you really have to take baby steps with them, but they learn to eat new foods relatively quickly and once they accept a new food, they attack it pretty voraciously after that. Once they would eat the partially grown live brine, I began to mix in enriched dead brine with the ova and they easily took to that. The male, although the most difficult to initially wean, is now the most adventurous with new foods and the females generally follow suit rather quickly. Just within the last week the male and one female have begun to eat Hikari mysis.
 
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ShannPeach

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On 6-15-2013 I found these :D


EGGS!
You can tell that there are eggs at different developmental stages, so they had been spawning at least days before I noticed the nest. The nests are guarded and tended by the male, and all the females spawn with the male in the same location. Although there are PVC "caves" and an empty clam shell in the tank, the chosen site was simply on the black plastic back wall of the tank, partially blocked by the sponge filter.

The eggs are black on a black background which makes them difficult to see. I purchased some white ceramic tiles to put in, but the problem is I would have to cover up the eggs with the tile to get them to spawn on the tile instead, and I don't really want to do that. However, I have collected a few hatches (anywhere from 5 to 30 larvae per hatch) so this weekend I will likely bite the bullet and just put the tile in. Doing this can help me figure out how many eggs are spawned each day and how long the incubation period is.
 
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ShannPeach

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The night of 6-17-2013 I put my Vossen larval snagger in their tank, but it fell so I didn't find anything. The night of the 18th I put it in and held it in place with a clamp and the morning of the 19th I found about 30 larvae (the largest hatch I have found so far). The next hatch I collected was the morning of the 21st (I did not put in the collector the night of the 19th, so I don't know if any hatched that night or not). The mornings of the 22nd and 23rd I only found one or two larvae each day and did not collect those. I took the hatch from the night of the 23rd (~10)and and from last night's hatch (5). All larvae so far have been put into the same ~3 gallon fish bowl, although I don't think I will be adding any more to that bowl now. The larvae so far have been fed rotifers and Apocyclops panamensis copepods. For greenwater I have been using nannochloropsis, tetraselmis, Isochrysis, and chaetoceros. I have done one water change of about 2 gallons and will do another one tonight. At hatch they are very dark and easy to see, which is quite nice. They are ~3mm at hatch.
Here they are in the fish bowl. As you can see, their dark pigmentation makes them very easy to spot.

Day 1 larvae pics
Head:


Tail:

Composite:

Size of the mouth:



Then here are some Day 3 images
Head:

Pigment spots?



Tomorrow I will try to grab one or two of the largest ones and take some pictures (the assumption will be that they are the oldest). The oldest will be 8 days tomorrow.
 

zoechance

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Wow!! tank breed! I have admired these fish for a while now. THey are really interesting looking. I would be interested if you rear them up eating prepared foods! this is great congratulations!
 

revhtree

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This is a great thread and congrats! What a good job! Please keep us updated.
 
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ShannPeach

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Okay, so my first attempt at rearing ended about 10-14 days in (can't say when the last larva to die actually hatched). I have been trying to change some things around in preparation for the next round of spawning and hatching. First, I set up a black round tub with the bottom painted white. It is a 17 gallon tub and right now has less than 5 gallons of water in it. Over the weekend I seeded it with a bunch of Tisbe pods I had from the old larval tank, and also some Nitokra pods. Both of these pods are harpacticoids, but I think they both have pelagic naups. The tub has also been given some Isochrysis and Chaetoceros phytoplankton.

Instead of trying to use a snagger to catch some of the larvae, I decided to try to switch to an artificial hatch. When there are only 20 eggs and you only manage to catch 10 of them, well, failure is just that much more likely. I need every larva I can get! So now every night (for the last couple nights since it seems like there are eggs about ready to hatch) I pull the egg tile and prop it in a water pitcher with an airstone. The bubble flow is set relatively low and they run up the length of the tile. I don't know if this will work or not yet, but if it does, essentially I can catch 100% of the hatch.

I think that tonight may be the night for this next hatch, although the egg clutch is relatively small. These will go into the BRT and I will likely also add some naups from Apocyclops in the morning. I may also add some naups from my Tigriopus, Tisbe, and Pseudocylops polyglot culture. Maybe.
 

zoechance

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Thanks for the update! Best of luck with your plan! please keep us posted this is really interesting! These fish fascinate me....
 

Paul B

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Very nice, I can never get them to live more than a couple of months.
 

calreef18

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Any tips on weaning the adults onto frozen/prepared? I had one (male I believe) that never ate and eventually starved...I tried live bbs, nutramar, had spawning skunk cleaners in tank, frozen cyclops, etc etc. Maybe just a tough to feed individual? Would like to try them again but a bit wary from this last attempt.
 
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ShannPeach

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I think a couple things are important. First, you need to have them away from any competing fish. The first couple I weaned were kept in a breeder net type setup in the main tank. It's important because at first it seems to take them awhile to decide if they even want to try to eat something. If bbs didn't work for you, I would try enriching some adult brine and feeding that. Then, I started to add nutramar, but would let it just gently fall into a dish (or a clam shell or whatever you have handy). They are used to stabbing at things that are either in/on an urchin or bivalves that are stationary, so they aren't very good at catching prey from the water column. The dish lets them take their time and line everything up, and succeed at getting food. Then, once they realize that nutramar is absolutely delicious, they will start trying to eat it out of the water column and it will be ugly at first since they often miss more than they get. Eventually, though, they get better at it. Once they take nutramar and are fattening up, I begin trying other foods. So far though, with my five D. lineatus, ova seems to be their favorite and I mainly feed that.

I would say it is easier if you have two because once one tries it, the other wants to as well and it also may spark a little bit of food competition between them (I feel like its only okay if both fish are on equal footing in terms of condition for competition. A clingfish would not be able to initially compete with a clownfish since clowns are way more aggressive eaters, but two clingfish seems to work okay. I can say that later, once weaned, the clingfish become much better at competing and my five are kept with two large bicinctus clowns and all the clings stay well fed despite that). If one clingfish begins to really outcompete the other, then remove the fatty and keep trying things with the one that isn't eating yet. They are fascinating fish, but can be a lot of work initially to get them weaned. Worth it though, if you ask me :)

An update on my larval attempts. The last survivor I had made it to 8mm and 14 days and then seemed to stop eating, started drifting, and then died. I think there may be several problems. One, I may not be enriching the rotifers properly (currently using just live phyto, and no other enrichment methods). Two, rotifers may not be the best initial prey. Perhaps the deaths before the five day mark are related to improper prey size. Both those first problems I hope to remedy by switching to a mainly copepod diet the first week or so. Third, manually removing the larvae after they hatch may be damaging to them and then adding them to a separate tank may be shocking. I plan to switch to artificial hatching, but just haven't quite worked out a nice system to do that yet since the larval station has been at 24/7 lighting. Perhaps I should change that as well. This last run, where the oldest began to drift and die, it occurred to me that I didn't switch to a larger prey item early enough and perhaps rotifers were just no longer enough to sustain them. I can fix this by adding nhbbs or perhaps feeding a copepod diet instead would also help.

I pulled a larva that I believe to be at 5 days post hatch and took some microscope pics but I just realized I never uploaded them so I will add those a bit later. With this larva, I believe you can see food in its gut, so it is still eating. I seeded this BRT with Apocyclops panamensis initially, but I believe rotifers also ended up in there as well (they seem to always end up EVERYWHERE).
 

Rob in Puyallup

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Very cool... Gotta admit that when I saw the first picture of these guys they made me think of leeches. :)

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S III using Tapatalk 2
 
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ShannPeach

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My first settled D. lineatus:
Dlineatusday23-25b_zps6fa48026.jpg


:D So far, I only have one but I am gearing up for another go with some protocol changes once I get a decent number of larvae to work with. This little guy clings to the surfaces of his "tank," with his favorite spot being the rigid airline tubing. The stripe down his back (which all adults have) has been coming in over the last week or so and is nearly completely filled in now. His snout has also been slowly changing shape. He is still quite small, roughly 1/2 centimeter or so.
 

JohnC

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Pretty interesting study report on the effect of dietary probiotics on clownfish larvae. This might be beneficial in getting your clingfish through meta faster with a better survival rate.

Cut and paste of the article:

Effect of dietary probiotics on clownfish: a molecular approach to define how lactic acid bacteria modulate development in a marine fish.
Avella MA, Olivotto I, Silvi S, Place AR, Carnevali O.
Source
Department of Marine Science, Universitá Politecnica delle Marche, Ancona, Italy.
Abstract
We set out to determine whether probiotic addition would improve larval development in the false percula clownfish Amphiprion ocellaris and to determine what molecular responses could be observed in the larvae following probiotic exposure. We supplied the probiotic bacterial strain Lactobacillus rhamnosus IMC 501 to clownfish larvae from the first day posthatch simultaneously by live prey and with addition to rearing water (group 2) and exclusively by live prey (group 3). We observed twofold higher body weight in both clownfish larvae and juveniles when probiotics were supplied via live prey and added to the rearing water. In addition, development was accelerated with metamorphosis occurring 3 days earlier in fingerlings treated with probiotic. Alteration in molecular biomarkers supported the faster growth observation. There was significantly increased gene expression of factors involved in growth and development (insulin-like growth factors I and II, myostatin, peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors alpha and beta, vitamin D receptor alpha, and retinoic acid receptor gamma) when probiotics were delivered via live prey and added to the rearing water. Moreover, probiotic treatment lessened the severity of the general stress response as exhibited by lower levels of glucocorticoid receptor and 70-kDa heat shock protein gene expression. Furthermore, an improvement of skeletal head development was observed, with a 10-20% reduction in deformities for juveniles treated with probiotic. All data suggest a potent effect on development resulting from the administration of lactic acid bacteria to larval clownfish, and this study provides a preliminary molecular entry path into the investigation of mechanisms responsible for probiotic enhancement in fish development.
Effect of dietary pro... [Am J Physiol Regul Integr Comp Physiol. 2010] - PubMed - NCBI
 

revhtree

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Bump!
 

rlpardue

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These fish are soooo cool. I wish she would update the thread with some concluding remarks or something. I have two (females I believe) of these clingfish in my 150 SPS reef and they've been living on blue-legged hermit crab eggs. All day long, they hunt hermit crabs, patiently lining up then aggressively snicking eggs (presumably) off the crabs.

They will occasionally eat BBS, and I'm 97% sure that they're also eating the frozen lobster eggs I imported from the Netherlands.

From what I've seen in my tank, they are remarkably social fish: the two females behave a bit like a couple of dogs, hunting together, always curious what the other is eating, trying it themselves. I've seen what looked like aggression a few times, mostly when I re-introduced one fish after having spent time in the overflow box. Would the health and general wellbeing of these fish be better if I had even more of them? They clearly enjoy each others' company, often perching on the same rock with their tails touching.
 
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