Your call on my Sump: Converted 10gal or Eshops RS-75?

VR28man

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All,

I'll be building a 48X16X16" tank with a corner overflow.

I have an Eshops RS-75 sump (older version of this), dimensions 18"x10"x16" LWH (12 gal nominal size). It has a filter sock compartment in the back, skimmer compartment in the middle, and then a return pump. I have a Jebao for it; forgot the model and nominal flow rate OTOMH and I'm away from home right now. I am thinking of using the Coral Box D300 as the skimmer (6''x6''x16'' dimension). I also intend to probably run a filer sock, and put activated carbon in there (don't wanna jump into media reactors yet; it'll be my first tank and initial setup is honestly overwhelming me). I also of course will run an ATO.

However, I would like to hook an algae reactor, and have some extra space for a refugium. I only will need about 500-1000 gph flow from the return pump (will use more flow via powerheads in the display. I want to create a gyre, with variable strength throughout the day, especially in the form of a pump mode, and am thinking of doing this with a Maxspect Gyre, MP40, etc. vice return pump), and am thinking of getting a smaller (physically and nomal flow rate) pump. Candidate is Eheim Compact+, nominal dimensions 5.5" x 3.3" x 5.0”. But this still does not leave me with much space in the sump.

What do people think about getting a standard 10 gallon tank (20.25" x 10.5" x 12.6", actually 11.5 gal nominal size) and one of those sump kits (with either pre-manufactured or DIY baffles and a filter sock holder). I'd put the first baffle around 7 inches, skimmer on the right and small filter sock on the left. The final baffle would be about 5 inches, leaving me about 8 inches (8x10x12 = 4.1 gal) for a refugium on top of the algae reactor. I might keep more algae here; alternately I'd also keep a DSB, rock rubble as well.

And if 10 is a good idea, why not 20? :D (regular 20, 25 inches long, gets me 5 inches more/13x12x17=11.4g fuge compartment; 20 long gets me 18x13x13/13gal fuge compartment ). Honestly, that may be too big for my sump (I need to fit the ATO in the stand, as well as as many wires, apex equipment, etc. as I can, by mandate of She Who Must Be Obeyed :D ).

Thoughts?
 
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Radman73

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Does your algae reactor have to go in the sump vs freestanding in the stand? What's the purpose of the refugium plus algae reactor? Pod production? If so, try to fit the 20 in there. Maybe a 20 high?
 
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VR28man

VR28man

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No, the reactor will be free standing in the stand. Purpose of the fuge would be additional nutrient absorption from algae, additional pod cultivation (on top of pods in the reactor) and additional LR/LS for biofiltration (on top of the lr/ls in the display, which I intend to keep at about 0.6 lb rock/gal because I want a substantial amount of uncluttered sandbed.
 

Radman73

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No, the reactor will be free standing in the stand. Purpose of the fuge would be additional nutrient absorption from algae, additional pod cultivation (on top of pods in the reactor) and additional LR/LS for biofiltration (on top of the lr/ls in the display, which I intend to keep at about 0.6 lb rock/gal because I want a substantial amount of uncluttered sandbed.

Gotcha. I used a 20H as the sump for my 60 cube. I put the skimmer in the same section that my filter sock is, return pump in the middle, and the the fuge. I tee off the return to supply flow to the fuge. Has worked quite well for me for 3 years or so. I used glass from Lowes for the baffles. They work fine but are quite sharp. If you can get baffles cut by a glass shop I'd recommend that. I only use the fuge for extra bio filter now, and not much at that. Let me know if you want a pic. It's not pretty, but it is functional.
 
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VR28man

VR28man

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Thanks, a pic would be cool. Though I can already envision what it looks like...... :D
 

telsonman

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I just put together a 30g frag tank. I was going to build a sump from a 10g, with two chambers. I didn't have room for a fuge, but also wanted more height. After much deliberation, I went with a RS75. Glad I did.
 

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