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Brew12

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So that is the time delay I bought based on your recommendations. For example this relay will handle up to a Mag 12 at 110 watts?
It will, but that is as big as you could safely go without a slightly different setup.
 

TheHarold

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Is this stand alone option. I want to walk over hit a button that is not on the computer. This will shut down my pump and then goes on by itself without me doing anything else?

Well, the apex allows you to control 8 outlets :)
 

NY_Caveman

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Just a note, time delay can do 1 amp maybe a little more. Should work

Screenshot_2018-10-29-13-23-00.png


Seems this would be great for an ATO as well! If my Tunze Osmolator powers up with the water level above the sensor (like would happen in a power outage) it runs endlessly looking for the passed water level.

 

steamman

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Seems this would be great for an ATO as well! If my Tunze Osmolator powers up with the water level above the sensor (like would happen in a power outage) it runs endlessly looking for the passed water level.
I use a bathroom fan timer for a safety on my 10 gallon reservoir for my make up water. Just in case the magnetic float and/or the mechanical float fail. It has ON/OFF, 5 min, 10 min, 30 min, and 60 min settings. It shuts down the power to the solenoid valve. Triple redundancy.
 

dugthefish

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How many circuits will I need for a set up including the following:

3-165w led light fixtures
2-250w heaters
1 DC return pump
1 ATO controller with pump
1 skimmer
2-4 wavemakers
1 sump small exhaust fan
Possibly including a stand alone refugium with light and small pump

Currently have 1 dedicated 20a circuit
 

Brew12

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How many circuits will I need for a set up including the following:

3-165w led light fixtures
2-250w heaters
1 DC return pump
1 ATO controller with pump
1 skimmer
2-4 wavemakers
1 sump small exhaust fan
Possibly including a stand alone refugium with light and small pump

Currently have 1 dedicated 20a circuit
A single 15A circuit would easily run this.
Never hurts to have too much power available so if adding a second service is easy right now, it could help in the future.
 

Brew12

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Thank you
Glad to help! And as an FYI, a 20A service can supply 2400W total. A 15A service can supply 1800W.

For planning purposes I wouldn't put more than 100W per amp available. So 2000W on a 20a circuit and 1500W on a 15A service. This gives you a 20% margin to prevent overloads.
 

aslmx

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Glad to help! And as an FYI, a 20A service can supply 2400W total. A 15A service can supply 1800W.

For planning purposes I wouldn't put more than 100W per amp available. So 2000W on a 20a circuit and 1500W on a 15A service. This gives you a 20% margin to prevent overloads.
This is rating at 100%. It’s better to only rate at 80% of the breaker.
 

Devaji

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calling @Brew12 and all other electricians!

1st of all thanks for the sub forum! its great you have family in the biz :D



long story short I want a tank my the couch. was thinking of a peninsula nano like evo 13.5 /IM20 but GF but an end to that and I have to agree after hearing her out on it that it would not work so well...well shoot.

so we decided on the IM 25 Lagoon! it fits the spot and room pretty great but after adding it all up tank/stand/lighting I am in 1K befroe corals and fish.

I have a full 40br set up with new skimmer good lights and petco stand that makes me question it...it up and running now as a holding tank while I moved the 90 and redid the floors.

I do love the foot print of the 40br. nice tanks for sure not really a nano tho.( IMHO) and thats OK.

ok here is my question...

I "could" fit the 40br in the spot if I moved the baseboard heater over about 6" to the right.
it is fed from the right so that should make it easier correct?
so the steps would be:
1.turn off breaker
2. unscrew baseboard from wall
3. undo wiring
4. see hoe much wire I have to work with
5. say a few bad words when I find I will have to splice in about 6" of wire
6. go to hardware store and get the wire along with a box of some sort ( any suggestions on that?)
7. come home a realized I forgot something repeat step #6
8. cut baseboard trim
9. question can I run the spliced wire out side wall above in heater in something made for wires? then back to heater?
it would safe time cutting and patching drywall!
10. move over heater and rewire.
11. screw back to wall.
12.turn on breaker
13.glue baseboard trim to other side
14. have a beer or other tasty beverage so as not to have 13 steeps..lol

sound about right?
should I do it? or just spend the $$ on the IM 25?
any thoughts or feedback?
 

Erica-Renee

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calling @Brew12 and all other electricians!



1.turn off breaker
Verify which breaker it is first
2. unscrew baseboard from wall
Verify breaker is OFF
3. undo wiring
Verify no Voltage first..
4. see hoe much wire I have to work with

5. say a few bad words when I find I will have to splice in about 6" of wire
Cursing does not help anything
6. go to hardware store and get the wire along with a box of some sort ( any suggestions on that?)
Splicing wires especially on a heater is not ideal and MUST Be done inside a box, in this case i would prefer it be a metal box and be soldered or use terminal blocks
7. come home a realized I forgot something repeat step #6
This is why my Service Van is so full of everything. I always forget that 1 part .
8. cut baseboard trim
9. question can I run the spliced wire out side wall above in heater in something made for wires? then back to heater?
Electrical Conduit with proper grommets and Connectors
it would safe time cutting and patching drywall!
Drywall is easy and Its safer to have the wires behind the wall. But the box where you splice the wires MUST BE Exposed and accessible. Its best if you can to run the wire down from its source and run a new wire the proper length. Please do not try to just pull it longer .
10. move over heater and rewire.

Check Voltage again
11. screw back to wall.
12.turn on breaker
Double check everything.. Think a few minutes then check again.
13.glue baseboard trim to other side

Cosmetic you can leave it off but yea would look better to put it back on
14. have a beer or other tasty beverage so as not to have 13 steeps..lol
I no longer drink Beer .But a Nice Margaritta or Bourbon Would be nice .

sound about right?
If you follow all electrical safety standards.. Splice the wire properly with Right gauge wire and with proper connectors in a Box. It will be safe . That is if you MUST Splice the wire.. I have done Electric range wires to extend them in Kitchen remodel jobs . Just do it safely
should I do it? or just spend the $$ on the IM 25?
any thoughts or feedback?

Be Safe and smart and Always assume the Power is live and you will be fine
 

Brew12

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calling @Brew12 and all other electricians!

1st of all thanks for the sub forum! its great you have family in the biz :D



long story short I want a tank my the couch. was thinking of a peninsula nano like evo 13.5 /IM20 but GF but an end to that and I have to agree after hearing her out on it that it would not work so well...well shoot.

so we decided on the IM 25 Lagoon! it fits the spot and room pretty great but after adding it all up tank/stand/lighting I am in 1K befroe corals and fish.

I have a full 40br set up with new skimmer good lights and petco stand that makes me question it...it up and running now as a holding tank while I moved the 90 and redid the floors.

I do love the foot print of the 40br. nice tanks for sure not really a nano tho.( IMHO) and thats OK.

ok here is my question...

I "could" fit the 40br in the spot if I moved the baseboard heater over about 6" to the right.
it is fed from the right so that should make it easier correct?
so the steps would be:
1.turn off breaker
2. unscrew baseboard from wall
3. undo wiring
4. see hoe much wire I have to work with
5. say a few bad words when I find I will have to splice in about 6" of wire
6. go to hardware store and get the wire along with a box of some sort ( any suggestions on that?)
7. come home a realized I forgot something repeat step #6
8. cut baseboard trim
9. question can I run the spliced wire out side wall above in heater in something made for wires? then back to heater?
it would safe time cutting and patching drywall!
10. move over heater and rewire.
11. screw back to wall.
12.turn on breaker
13.glue baseboard trim to other side
14. have a beer or other tasty beverage so as not to have 13 steeps..lol

sound about right?
should I do it? or just spend the $$ on the IM 25?
any thoughts or feedback?
I don't know your local code, but splices are normally required to be done inside an electrical box. If you keep that in mind, I think you will be fine.
 

Devaji

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I don't know your local code, but splices are normally required to be done inside an electrical box. If you keep that in mind, I think you will be fine.

yeah thats is what I am thinking too.

lets say I splice in a junction box can I use wire cover out side the wall? one of those track style wide covers thingies?
 

Brew12

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yeah thats is what I am thinking too.

lets say I splice in a junction box can I use wire cover out side the wall? one of those track style wide covers thingies?
I'll need to look in my code book tomorrow to find an answer. I know you can't run regular 120V wiring in the typical ones you would get from HD or Lowe's. I'll need to look to see what the other options are.
 

Devaji

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I'll need to look in my code book tomorrow to find an answer. I know you can't run regular 120V wiring in the typical ones you would get from HD or Lowe's. I'll need to look to see what the other options are.

thanks for the replay, I thought about it some more and I dont think I will ned to do that.
Iam moving it "up stream" of the feed wire...
so all I have to do is disconnect from heater place heater where I want dill hole in wall find feed wire cut to length and re hook up. sounds simple until its not. haha

thanks bud
 

wom001

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From doable, to hire somebody whats difficulty level of running a dedicated circuit to my tank? Im in a townhome, my garage backs into an alley and my place is up front. Garage and House are separated by like a small breezeway with an overhead bridge that connects the two. It then goes from kitchen to living room where my tank is. Is there possibly another way to spread out the load? Was also thinking of utilizing the very seldom use attic circut and just running a line from the attic down 2 stores to my fishroom for my 3 250w MHs.
 

TriggerCorals

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calling @Brew12 and all other electricians!

1st of all thanks for the sub forum! its great you have family in the biz :D



long story short I want a tank my the couch. was thinking of a peninsula nano like evo 13.5 /IM20 but GF but an end to that and I have to agree after hearing her out on it that it would not work so well...well shoot.

so we decided on the IM 25 Lagoon! it fits the spot and room pretty great but after adding it all up tank/stand/lighting I am in 1K befroe corals and fish.

I have a full 40br set up with new skimmer good lights and petco stand that makes me question it...it up and running now as a holding tank while I moved the 90 and redid the floors.

I do love the foot print of the 40br. nice tanks for sure not really a nano tho.( IMHO) and thats OK.

ok here is my question...

I "could" fit the 40br in the spot if I moved the baseboard heater over about 6" to the right.
it is fed from the right so that should make it easier correct?
so the steps would be:
1.turn off breaker
2. unscrew baseboard from wall
3. undo wiring
4. see hoe much wire I have to work with
5. say a few bad words when I find I will have to splice in about 6" of wire
6. go to hardware store and get the wire along with a box of some sort ( any suggestions on that?)
7. come home a realized I forgot something repeat step #6
8. cut baseboard trim
9. question can I run the spliced wire out side wall above in heater in something made for wires? then back to heater?
it would safe time cutting and patching drywall!
10. move over heater and rewire.
11. screw back to wall.
12.turn on breaker
13.glue baseboard trim to other side
14. have a beer or other tasty beverage so as not to have 13 steeps..lol

sound about right?
should I do it? or just spend the $$ on the IM 25?
any thoughts or feedback?

you can use a metal surface mount "wire mold" box and blank cover. you can only get one wire in the wire mold conduit according to code though. you'd have to run two parallel wire mold conduits if you want to go up to tank and then back to feed heater. check the size of the heater though. circuit may already be maxed with heater. they are usually run dedicated because they take up a whole circuit, at least here in Indiana. If you can post a pic, i may be able to help further or have a better solution for you. (yes, I'm qualified. Master Electrician and 20 yrs in the field)
 

Brew12

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From doable, to hire somebody whats difficulty level of running a dedicated circuit to my tank? Im in a townhome, my garage backs into an alley and my place is up front. Garage and House are separated by like a small breezeway with an overhead bridge that connects the two. It then goes from kitchen to living room where my tank is. Is there possibly another way to spread out the load? Was also thinking of utilizing the very seldom use attic circut and just running a line from the attic down 2 stores to my fishroom for my 3 250w MHs.
It's not too hard to do if you know the tricks of the trade. If you don't, it can be very difficult. And, in many states, you would be required to hire a licensed electrician to do the work. It shouldn't be too expensive as long as you don't have something crazy with your setup.
 

Devaji

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It's not too hard to do if you know the tricks of the trade. If you don't, it can be very difficult. And, in many states, you would be required to hire a licensed electrician to do the work. It shouldn't be too expensive as long as you don't have something crazy with your setup.

well I decided to get a new BIG tank and make it the center point of the room and not have 2 tanks! yay for going big! :D
so no need to move the heater now.
 

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