fity2pounder
Active Member
I presume I simply follow from point to point, just not sure what to be testing exactly. Ohms to be almost zero between lights? How to test each light? Thanks for the help!!
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Brew12
Electrical Gru
I would start with some voltage checks. The first would be to have the meter selected to DC volts and take a reading between the red and black wires with the lights turned on.
See if the readings from the red arrow match the readings from the blue arrow.
See if the readings from the red arrow match the readings from the blue arrow.
Dr. Dendrostein
Marine fish monthly
Im guessing chief, no voltage bad driverI would start with some voltage checks. The first would be to have the meter selected to DC volts and take a reading between the red and black wires with the lights turned on.
See if the readings from the red arrow match the readings from the blue arrow.
Brew12
Electrical Gru
That's my guess too.
Dr. Dendrostein
Marine fish monthly
Unless a wire or to desolder, or a circuit breaker or fuse in the unit Maybe.
fity2pounder
Active Member
@Brew12 @Jomama I attached a pic of the DC voltage readings on the points as mentioned. The reading of all zeros is when the leads aren’t attached to anything. The voltage theory doesn’t make sense in my head because the white lights work when I switch the power wires. Plus my hot wire tester (forgot the name of the actual device) shows there is power all the way to the first soldering points. Other ideas?
fity2pounder
Active Member
@Brew12 @Jomama I attached a pic of the DC voltage readings on the points as mentioned. The reading of all zeros is when the leads aren’t attached to anything. The voltage theory doesn’t make sense in my head because the white lights work when I switch the power wires. Plus my hot wire tester (forgot the name of the actual device) shows there is power all the way to the first soldering points. Other ideas?
In case u meant to check the AC voltage, attached is the reading. It’s basically the same reading at both A and B. Looks normal to me. Suggestions?
Dr. Dendrostein
Marine fish monthly
Any readings from arrows red and blue. If no reading on one or both, then bad driver. I never changed one but on eBay or aliexpress should find some I think starting at $10 on up.
Brew12
Electrical Gru
Just to be clear, are the first soldering points where I put the red and blue arrows? Looks like it but want to make sure.
If yes, then there is an open somewhere on the board. Unfortunately, your meter doesn't have a very high with its DC reading.
I would start by taking the red lead at the red arrow and black lead at the black arrow on the 12VDC setting.
luis carreiro
Active Member
Hello, I am in the process of moving and building my first reef tank. I am planning on a 180 gal SPS tank on the first floor with sump/refugium in the basement/ Apex controller. Can someone help me in terms of what I would need for an electrical layout- ? separate amp breaker and how many amps, How many GFI outlets on the first floor and how many in the basement and whatever else I am forgetting electrically.
TIA
TIA
In most cases, a single 20A dedicated circuit is enough. Between pumps, lights, and controllers, you're really not pulling a whole lot of amps unless you're going with a lot of T5HO or Halide lighting.
To be safe, if you have a clean-slate to start with and it's easy at this point to run circuits, run 2x 20A circuits to the tank and 2x 20A circuits to the sump area (assuming a basement sump) and you will likely never be short on power. JMO.
GFCI receptacles are added at the point of use, I would not use GFCI breakers. It's not that those are bad, it's more convenience. Better to have them at the point of use because that makes it easier to troublshoot/reset them and when you have to replace them, it's easier to flip the breaker and replace the receptacle vs shutting off the panel to replace a breaker and wire it up (you can do that while the panel is hot, but most people are not comfortable digging in the guts of their electrical panel while it's hot)
To be safe, if you have a clean-slate to start with and it's easy at this point to run circuits, run 2x 20A circuits to the tank and 2x 20A circuits to the sump area (assuming a basement sump) and you will likely never be short on power. JMO.
GFCI receptacles are added at the point of use, I would not use GFCI breakers. It's not that those are bad, it's more convenience. Better to have them at the point of use because that makes it easier to troublshoot/reset them and when you have to replace them, it's easier to flip the breaker and replace the receptacle vs shutting off the panel to replace a breaker and wire it up (you can do that while the panel is hot, but most people are not comfortable digging in the guts of their electrical panel while it's hot)
luis carreiro
Active Member
Thanks, Just to clarify. I assume a single 20 A circuit at the breaker but 2 lines to tank and 2 lines to sump area or do you recommend four 20 A circuits at breaker box
When I say "circuit" that means a breaker with multiple receptacles, I'm used to speaking in design/engineering lingo....
So that means you have 2 breakers minimum, one feeding receptacles at the tank and one feeding receptacles at the sump. In most houses, you have about 8 receptacles per circuit (breaker) per the National Electric Code (and general design guidelines that most people follow).
If you have a lot of lighting load (like T5HO or Metal Halide) then you might want to have a dedicated circuit for just lighting, but that's not totally necessary.
It all comes down to watt load per circuit. If you run a reeflo or other large type pump, a few filter pumps, LED lighting, and a controller, chances are you could actually run everything off of one circuit with only one receptacle as you're never going to get above about 15 amps (probably not even 10 amps) but if you have the opportunity to over-design, do it.
So that means you have 2 breakers minimum, one feeding receptacles at the tank and one feeding receptacles at the sump. In most houses, you have about 8 receptacles per circuit (breaker) per the National Electric Code (and general design guidelines that most people follow).
If you have a lot of lighting load (like T5HO or Metal Halide) then you might want to have a dedicated circuit for just lighting, but that's not totally necessary.
It all comes down to watt load per circuit. If you run a reeflo or other large type pump, a few filter pumps, LED lighting, and a controller, chances are you could actually run everything off of one circuit with only one receptacle as you're never going to get above about 15 amps (probably not even 10 amps) but if you have the opportunity to over-design, do it.
luis carreiro
Active Member
Perfect. That's exactly what I needed to know. Thanks for your help.
luis carreiro
Active Member
Do you recommend a non GFCI receptacle for the return pump?
Brew12
Electrical Gru
I do not. I might consider temporarily moving it to a non GFCI receptacle if I were going to be gone for a few days. I like using multiple GFCI's so a trip of one won't take everything out. If my return pump trips, my powerheads will still provide flow and O2. I'll lose heat but it will be fine for 10 to 12 hours.
luis carreiro
Active Member
Thanks Brew.
Jase4224
Well-Known Member
Hi, I have a question regarding plugging in my ground probe. Here goes..
I have a temp controller that my heater plugs into. There is two sockets, one for heating (where my heater is plugged) and one for cooling which I will never need.
My question is: can I plug my ground probe into the socket meant for cooling? Whilst there needs to be electrical input to get a fan or chiller to run I’m thinking the ground connection is always connected. What do you guys think?
I have a temp controller that my heater plugs into. There is two sockets, one for heating (where my heater is plugged) and one for cooling which I will never need.
My question is: can I plug my ground probe into the socket meant for cooling? Whilst there needs to be electrical input to get a fan or chiller to run I’m thinking the ground connection is always connected. What do you guys think?
Brew12
Electrical Gru
Yup, shouldn't be an issue to connect the ground probe to the chiller outlet.
RobW
Valuable Member
New to the forum here but. I am also and Electrical Contractor. I specialize in high end custom homes, lighting control, automation, and A/V as well.
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