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Your Resident Electrician for all your electrical questions!

Paul B

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IMO, it is a total waste of time to go through that. It is perfectly fine to use one neutral for a circuit as long as it was done before the new code. If we changed everything every time they changed the code, we would be constantly rewiring our homes. Shared neutrals was done for 100 years and almost all homes wired a few years ago are like that, My house is like that and I am an electrician.

Yes, you can get shocked in some small circumstances by sharing a neutral if you are working on the dead circuit, but it is very un likely. After working as an electrician for fifty years I can barely remember getting shocked like that. Maybe 3 or 4 times in all those years. You are not supposed to be working on your wiring anyway if you are not sure what you are doing.
You can use that double pole breaker if you want, but it is overkill.
 

infinite0180

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IMO, it is a total waste of time to go through that. It is perfectly fine to use one neutral for a circuit as long as it was done before the new code. If we changed everything every time they changed the code, we would be constantly rewiring our homes. Shared neutrals was done for 100 years and almost all homes wired a few years ago are like that, My house is like that and I am an electrician.

Yes, you can get shocked in some small circumstances by sharing a neutral if you are working on the dead circuit, but it is very un likely. After working as an electrician for fifty years I can barely remember getting shocked like that. Maybe 3 or 4 times in all those years. You are not supposed to be working on your wiring anyway if you are not sure what you are doing.
You can use that double pole breaker if you want, but it is overkill.
I get that as well. I just figured it might come up when i go to sell the house in ten years. Im not an electrician but im a scientist and have been working on car electrical since i was young. I have a licensed electrician from work guiding me and checking my work as i go. In fact we installed a 240v circuit for my dryer together a few months back. I just haven't spoken to him about this yet. Truthfully the whole expierence of running romex and getting this circuit sorted out has been really interesting for me. Maybe im just looking for things to fix at this point while im at it? I figure it cant hurt to update that one circuit and move on with my life... the breakers only like $10...
 

Paul B

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The new circuit you install has to be up to code, but not anything existing.
By the way, you can get shocked working on a circuit from the shared neutral not the hot wire you shut off.
So be careful of the neutrals.
That shock will not be a full 110 volt shock because the shock will be from the return wire after it went through the load like a light, TV etc. So whatever that light or TV was drawing, that is what will shock you.
 

chaostactics

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I used a delay on break timer years ago to make a very effective feed delay timer for a return pump. That time I used a cut extension cord between a switch panel and the pump and (used a momentary button switch as the power interruption)
as my wire in point for the delay on break timer.

This time I am planning on putting it inside of the switch panel. I don't really anticipate needing to change the delay on time but can just open the panel if I need to adjust it later.

My plan is to just switch off then back on the switch that the delay on break timer is wired into to create the delay that triggers the timer count down.

My 2 questions: 1. A flip on and off should trigger the break timer.
2. National wiring code brown should be hot. Wiring the break timer in place of a brown jumper is the appropriate place add the interruption yes?

Thank you.
IMG_20201017_094322.jpg
 

Dr. Dendrostein

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I used a delay on break timer years ago to make a very effective feed delay timer for a return pump. That time I used a cut extension cord between a switch panel and the pump and (used a momentary button switch as the power interruption)
as my wire in point for the delay on break timer.

This time I am planning on putting it inside of the switch panel. I don't really anticipate needing to change the delay on time but can just open the panel if I need to adjust it later.

My plan is to just switch off then back on the switch that the delay on break timer is wired into to create the delay that triggers the timer count down.

My 2 questions: 1. A flip on and off should trigger the break timer.
2. National wiring code brown should be hot. Wiring the break timer in place of a brown jumper is the appropriate place add the interruption yes?

Thank you.
IMG_20201017_094322.jpg
Don't do what some engineers do, when all else fails read the instructions, when installing any type of electronic device that comes with instructions . for example, that time delay has a little red wire you need to cut that so you can use it with high voltage.
 

vetteguy53081

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I had a JBJ chiller on my tank. Although way underrrated, kept my tank at 78.5 and ran well. I just got a TECO 2000 which makes more sense .
Problem is JBJ ran just fine, and the TECO keeps tripping my Breaker. Is it what I suspect the higher HP rating or ( ? ? ? )
 

Dr. Dendrostein

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I had a JBJ chiller on my tank. Although way underrrated, kept my tank at 78.5 and ran well. I just got a TECO 2000 which makes more sense .
Problem is JBJ ran just fine, and the TECO keeps tripping my Breaker. Is it what I suspect the higher HP rating or ( ? ? ? )
I use as a tool on my system ( I don't leave in circuit) to determine kilowatt usage per hour and also amperage usage. It's called kill a watt. You'll get an idea if you're overloading your circuit with one of these

Screenshot_20201017-133110.png
 

vetteguy53081

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I use as a tool on my system ( I don't leave in circuit) to determine kilowatt usage per hour and also amperage usage. It's called kill a watt. You'll get an idea if you're overloading your circuit with one of these

Screenshot_20201017-133110.png
Notice my EB832 . When orpheks are on, this is my usage:

1602966961986.png
 

vetteguy53081

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Amperage fine, maybe loose wire or relay with bad contacts...... possibly
That pic I sent is with the orpheks. . . NOT the chiller which is unplugged. As soon as I plug in chiller, circuit trips.
 

vetteguy53081

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Chiller may be in lock rotor amps or grounded. How old is chiller
Under 2 years. It runs and cools tank off. I can run it at night but must turn it off before Orpheks go on
 

vetteguy53081

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It runs and cools tank off. I can run it at night but must turn it off before Orpheks go on

1602967955934.png


1602968012859.png
 

chaostactics

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Don't do what some engineers do, when all else fails read the instructions, when installing any type of electronic device that comes with instructions . for example, that time delay has a little red wire you need to cut that so you can use it with high voltage.
Figured that one out re: red wire with the last application . The device is primarily mean to prevent AC short cycling. So no real instructions for this type of application

 

Dr. Dendrostein

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vetteguy53081

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Do you know watts or amps from chiller. If total system amps( lights, chiller....etc) are under 15 amps. May have weak circuit breaker, if after changing CB. And still have issue may have bad connection in house wiring somewhere...
I was sort of thinking breaker. If I recall, it an R&R. It pulls out and new one just pops in
 

Dr. Dendrostein

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Just determine your total amps apprx. 11 amps. You should be under the 15 amp some outlets designed for. I would change out CB and replace outlet too. Also I'm leaning towards a weak circuit breaker, because every time a chiller turns on it does what's called Lock rotor amps, when the electric motor in the compressor starts it creates a very high amperage draw and if the circuit breaker weak it will trip
 

Dr. Dendrostein

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I was sort of thinking breaker. If I recall, it an R&R. It pulls out and new one just pops in
If you plan to replace a breaker, go on YouTube first and you'll get an idea and hopefully they have your circuit breaker in one of those videos
 

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