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[TheDuude]

Voltage drop will not matter in 80 ft but the cost difference in #6 to #8 will @80'... but why are you saying 32 continous amps because thats the meat and potatoes of figuring out what size wire/braker you require which is how you do it no need to overkill and throw money in the trash

●What is you equipment (if a motor what are the name plate ratings)
● What is the ambiant temperature of the location of the conductors
You already know distance and voltage you need ..

Charger for EV will pull 32 amps continuous and the wiring will be running up and through my attic so ambient temps for Detroit area.

Also 32 amps will be my MAX charge rate. I will most likely charge at 25 amps for my daily commute.

 

[Sleepydoc]

Charger for EV will pull 32 amps continuous and the wiring will be running up and through my attic so ambient temps for Detroit area.

Also 32 amps will be my MAX charge rate. I will most likely charge at 25 amps for my daily commute.

The charge rate will probably ultimately be determined by the software in your car - a lot/most cars will lower the charging rate when possible to maximize battery life.

What kind of car did you get?

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

I will be using this circuit to charge an EV as well. But m EVSE maxes out at 32A so wont need a 50A circuit.

#8 with #10 ground

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

#8 with #10 ground

ill bet you a nickle it wont pull 32a with an ammeter... there are whole trailers only running on 30a services

 

[TheDuude]

ill bet you a nickle it wont pull 32a with an ammeter... there are whole trailers only running on 30a service.

Max charge rate of the onboard charger is 48amps AC depending on the EVSE and somewhere between 400 and 500 amps on DC fast charge so it will absolutely be pulling 32a continuous if set to that limit.

This is not a trailer.

 

[TheDuude]

The charge rate will probably ultimately be determined by the software in your car - a lot/most cars will lower the charging rate when possible to maximize battery life.

What kind of car did you get?

Model 3 Long Range.

And yes I set the charge rate in the car or on the APP. Up to 32 amps on the mobile connector and up to 48 amps on a Tesla wall connector. I don't plan on even needing more than 32 amps charge rate so that is what I want to make sure the circuit is setup for.

The consensus so far seems to be that #8 will be sufficient.

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

Max charge rate of the onboard charger is 48amps AC depending on the EVSE and somewhere between 400 and 500 amps on DC fast charge so it will absolutely be pulling 32a continuous if set to that limit.

This is not a trailer.

Well if your so sure why are you asking, if you finally get it done, and dont hire someone to do it...put an ammeter off one phase from the braker and take a picture of the amperage we will see who owes who a nickle... and im sure its not a trailer, that was just for your reference of power consumption..I know you have a fancy car and probably can't imagine living in a trailer but its like a house with a bunch of electric stuff in it and they can get by with 30 or 50 amp services to them....

 

[Ardeus]

I have a UPS with modified sine wave (1200 watts).

I live in an area with frequent short power outages and it causes some equipments to lose connection to the router and lose time.

Is it safe to connect the whole tank to the UPS?

I also have a generator and a battery for the return pump.

 

[Sleepydoc]

Model 3 Long Range.

And yes I set the charge rate in the car or on the APP. Up to 32 amps on the mobile connector and up to 48 amps on a Tesla wall connector. I don't plan on even needing more than 32 amps charge rate so that is what I want to make sure the circuit is setup for.

The consensus so far seems to be that #8 will be sufficient.

IIRC, the Model 3 Long Range has a 75 kWh battery. Normally, teslas only charge up to 90%, so even if you’re totally empty it could fully charge in just under 9 hours.

One caveat - those outlets aren’t necessarily designed for repeated plugging and unplugging. If you’re planning on doing that it might be worth getting either a wall charger or a second charging cable.

 

[Sleepydoc]

I have a UPS with modified sine wave (1200 watts).

I live in an area with frequent short power outages and it causes some equipments to lose connection to the router and lose time.

Is it safe to connect the whole tank to the UPS?

I also have a generator and a battery for the return pump.

Is it a whole house generator or just a portable one? How long are the power outages? If you’re running the entire system You’ll likely deplete the UPS pretty quickly. I’d probably put the UPS on the wifi router and your controller so the connection is maintained, use the battery for the return pump and leave everything else off.

 

[Ardeus]

Is it a whole house generator or just a portable one? How long are the power outages? If you’re running the entire system You’ll likely deplete the UPS pretty quickly. I’d probably put the UPS on the wifi router and your controller so the connection is maintained, use the battery for the return pump and leave everything else off.

It's a portable generator and I haven't used it in 2 years, it's still in the box.

The power outages happen maybe 10 times per month, ranging from a few seconds to 5 minutes. That's the reason I thought connecting the UPS to the whole tank was a good idea.

The power outages sometimes cause:

- the lights to lose time;
- the Xepta Autobalance to perform extra tests, get out of schedule and sometimes not connect to the router;
- the 2 circulation pumps have a complex schedule and they lose time.

Will the modified sine wave of the UPS damage any equipment with this kind of use?

 

[Sleepydoc]

It's a portable generator and I haven't used it in 2 years, it's still in the box.

The power outages happen maybe 10 times per month, ranging from a few seconds to 5 minutes. That's the reason I thought connecting the UPS to the whole tank was a good idea.

The power outages sometimes cause:

- the lights to lose time;
- the Xepta Autobalance to perform extra tests, get out of schedule and sometimes not connect to the router;
- the 2 circulation pumps have a complex schedule and they lose time.

Will the modified sine wave of the UPS damage any equipment with this kind of use?

Hard to say - what kind of pumps are they? Most newer pumps are DC so the real issue is the power supply. Most of the equipment shouldn’t take a ton of power. The pumps, lights and heaters will take the most.

The heaters can be left off the UPS easily enough; short power outages shouldn‘t matter much with them. What kind of pumps do you have and how are they programmed? The lights would be the main issue, since even T5 and LED lights take a fair amount of power. What kind of lighting do you have and how many watts does it draw?

 

[Ardeus]

Hard to say - what kind of pumps are they? Most newer pumps are DC so the real issue is the power supply. Most of the equipment shouldn’t take a ton of power. The pumps, lights and heaters will take the most.

The heaters can be left off the UPS easily enough; short power outages shouldn‘t matter much with them. What kind of pumps do you have and how are they programmed? The lights would be the main issue, since even T5 and LED lights take a fair amount of power. What kind of lighting do you have and how many watts does it draw?

There are a few small AC pumps (calcium reactor, GFO reactor, UV pump).

The 2 DC circulation pumps are 55 Watts each, but I run them overclocked by 20% for some hours (2 x 66 watts).

The return pump is also DC - 80 Watts.

The led lights take 580 watts (2 x Aqua Medic Led Angels 200 + 1 x 180 Maxspect Razor).

I will follow your suggestion and remove the 2 x 300 Watt heaters from the UPS, thanks.

 

[Calm Blue Ocean]

If I'm using a UPS do I need to add GFCI on both sides? One at the wall and one between the UPS and my devices? Suddenly occurred to me that the one at the wall could trip and the UPS would just power the faulty stuff right back up.

 

[Sleepydoc]

If I'm using a UPS do I need to add GFCI on both sides? One at the wall and one between the UPS and my devices? Suddenly occurred to me that the one at the wall could trip and the UPS would just power the faulty stuff right back up.

A gfci outlet works by shutting off the power (I.e. creating a power outage,) so a gfci outlet at the wall will simply can use the ups to kick in and take over.

 

[Calm Blue Ocean]

A gfci outlet works by shutting off the power (I.e. creating a power outage,) so a gfci outlet at the wall will simply can use the ups to kick in and take over.

This is my concern actually. If a piece of equipment is faulty and the UPS powers it back up like nothing is going on, is that not dangerous?

 

[Brew12]

This is my concern actually. If a piece of equipment is faulty and the UPS powers it back up like nothing is going on, is that not dangerous?

Yup. You would want the GFCI on the same side of the UPS as the aquarium equipment.

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

Just bite the bullet and install a whole house generator with ATS, they are being installed for competitive prices, and generac has an unbelievable financing program its the best thing ever unless your my neighbor

 

[Calm Blue Ocean]

Just bite the bullet and install a whole house generator with ATS, they are being installed for competitive prices, and generac has an unbelievable financing program its the best thing ever unless your my neighbor

On the todo list!

 

[New&no clue]

I’m hooking up my ATO (tunze). I need about five more feet of wire. Can I add additional wire on here, and if so how?