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homer1475

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The tunze pump is very low voltage.

Lamp cord from the hardware store will work just fine. Color coding doesn't matter in this case. Just twist them together, add a wire nut, some black tape, then put the other ends into the connectors(after you strip them). '

Easy peasy.
 
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New&no clue

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The tunze pump is very low voltage.

Lamp cord from the hardware store will work just fine. Color coding doesn't matter in this case. Just twist them together, add a wire nut, some black tape, then put the other ends into the connectors(after you strip them). '

Easy peasy.
Lol, maybe I should explain my electrical knowledge extends to screwing in a lightbulb.

1. What am I taping ?
2. How do you strip wire?
 

thatmanMIKEson

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I’m hooking up my ATO (tunze). I need about five more feet of wire. Can I add additional wire on here, and if so how?
A495FD0B-7CF3-417A-9227-630595752165.jpeg
You can add quite a bit of the same Guage wire before you have any voltage drop(loss) a couple feet should be no problem 5ft should be ok

Go fancy and get connectors for both sides...that ato is awsome too worth the work!
 
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A quick question as my school years are way behind me.
I'm thinking of setting up my ATO container on the first floor above my tank, as I already have pipes and hoses running from that area.
Using gravity, to feed the water to the sump I could simple add a magnetic valve (or two, just to be safe) to top of water.
I found some 24V DC, 4.8Watt made for 1/4" pipes.
Shouldn't I just use a power supply that is rated 24V DC, and minimum 0.2A (per valve), to run these?
 

Sleepydoc

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A quick question as my school years are way behind me.
I'm thinking of setting up my ATO container on the first floor above my tank, as I already have pipes and hoses running from that area.
Using gravity, to feed the water to the sump I could simple add a magnetic valve (or two, just to be safe) to top of water.
I found some 24V DC, 4.8Watt made for 1/4" pipes.
Shouldn't I just use a power supply that is rated 24V DC, and minimum 0.2A (per valve), to run these?
First - I would say this sounds like a bad idea and a setup for a massive salinity shift and/or a flood if it doesn’t work as expected.

As for the power supply, yes, you would need a minimum 24V, 9.6W (400mA) supply. I would recommend getting something at lest 20% larger, though.
 

powers2001

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@Brew12 or anybody else. I recently was installing a wire harness for my DIY T5 ballast job. I bought a multi meter to know which wire was which. I was totally overwhelmed by the complexity of the multi meter. My brother who restores guitar amps told me all I needed was a continuity tester and that got the job done for me. Now I have this multi meter and don’t know how to use it. I did a thorough job searching YouTube for videos on how to use them and didn’t understand any. My question is: does anyone know of websites where I can find articles and or videos for beginners on how to use a multi meter?
 

Sleepydoc

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@Brew12 or anybody else. I recently was installing a wire harness for my DIY T5 ballast job. I bought a multi meter to know which wire was which. I was totally overwhelmed by the complexity of the multi meter. My brother who restores guitar amps told me all I needed was a continuity tester and that got the job done for me. Now I have this multi meter and don’t know how to use it. I did a thorough job searching YouTube for videos on how to use them and didn’t understand any. My question is: does anyone know of websites where I can find articles and or videos for beginners on how to use a multi meter?
What multimeter did you get/where did you get it? it should have come with a manual.

In general, the continuity tester function will show up as a speaker symbol or a 'sideways wifi' symbol. For most multimeters, you set it to continuity and then the meter will beep when you touch the probes together. All multimeters are a bit different. if you upload a picture it would help.

As to your current project, are you replacing a ballast? you shouldn't necessarily need a multimeter for that.


1625163213206.png
 
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powers2001

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What multimeter did you get/where did you get it? it should have come with a manual.

In general, the continuity tester function will show up as a speaker symbol or a 'sideways wifi' symbol. For most multimeters, you set it to continuity and then the meter will beep when you touch the probes together. All multimeters are a bit different. if you upload a picture it would help.

As to your current project, are you replacing a ballast? you shouldn't necessarily need a multimeter for that.


1625163213206.png
@Sleepydoc I got it from Amazon I don’t know the brand it is down at the farm shop right now and I’m at the house. It came with a manual if you want to call it one, just has a diagram labeling all the settings.

My ballast project is done however I want to be able to use it for another reason. If I get stray voltage in my saltwater system from a piece of equipment I want to be able to find the source. Can I do that with a multi meter and how so?
 

powers2001

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@Brew12 or anybody else. I recently was installing a wire harness for my DIY T5 ballast job. I bought a multi meter to know which wire was which. I was totally overwhelmed by the complexity of the multi meter. My brother who restores guitar amps told me all I needed was a continuity tester and that got the job done for me. Now I have this multi meter and don’t know how to use it. I did a thorough job searching YouTube for videos on how to use them and didn’t understand any. My question is: does anyone know of websites where I can find articles and or videos for beginners on how to use a multi meter?
@Sleepydoc I took two Physics college classes back in the 90’s and we covered some on electrical so I do know something about electrical stuff. Were can I find basic information about multi meters?
70C15A0E-2DD3-459E-8357-A41C918F8759.jpeg
 

Sleepydoc

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@powers2001
It looks like a pretty standard multi meter.
  • Plug the black cord into the COM port (make sure you press firmly so it's fully seated in the socket)
  • Plug the red cord into the VΩAµA port. (The 10A port is for high current measurements - you shouldn't need it.)
  • The first position is for DC voltage measurements - touch the red lead to the positive terminal/contact and the black lead to the negative.
  • The second position is for AC Voltage measurements - touch one lead to each contact; doesn't matter which
  • The third position is for resistance measurements (ohms)
  • The 4th position is for diodes and continuity testing - If you touch the leads together at this setting it should beep indicating continuity/short circuit.
  • The 5th position measures frequency
  • The 6th, 7th and 8th positions are for current measurements (microamp, milliamp and amps.)
 

powers2001

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@powers2001
It looks like a pretty standard multi meter.
  • Plug the black cord into the COM port (make sure you press firmly so it's fully seated in the socket)
  • Plug the red cord into the VΩAµA port. (The 10A port is for high current measurements - you shouldn't need it.)
  • The first position is for DC voltage measurements - touch the red lead to the positive terminal/contact and the black lead to the negative.
  • The second position is for AC Voltage measurements - touch one lead to each contact; doesn't matter which
  • The third position is for resistance measurements (ohms)
  • The 4th position is for diodes and continuity testing - If you touch the leads together at this setting it should beep indicating continuity/short circuit.
  • The 5th position measures frequency
  • The 6th, 7th and 8th positions are for current measurements (microamp, milliamp and amps.)
@Sleepydoc thanks @TheHarold directed me to this article:
 
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