Your Resident Electrician for all your electrical questions!

thatmanMIKEson

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You know Romex (white sheath) with a black, white and green wire inside.
White sheathed romex is typically 14awg or 14/2 or 14/3. With either white black red, and a bare ground...never green ....unless its old but the "sheathing" would be black cloth and the ground would be smaller than the current carrying conductors..but you know romex (white sheath)
 
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fragit

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White sheathed romex is typically 14awg or 14/2 or 14/3. With either white black red, and a bare ground...never green ....unless its old but the "sheathing" would be black cloth and the ground would be smaller than the current carrying conductors..but you know romex (white sheath)
Okay no need to be snarky, I’m not an electrician. I’m a registered nurse and cabinet maker. I’m asking the people with electrical knowledge and expertise for help not sarcasm. I will look again to verify what colors the wires are.
 

fragit

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then you won't be able to use it. In this case the white wire is not a neutral; it's a switched wire returning to the light. It *may* be possible to convert the wire at the light box, but again, I would have an electrician do this since there are other things that may be going on.
AHA I was wondering about that. So according to what I’ve read I would have to identify which wire is the hot wire, because as you suggest the white(neutral) will actually be hot?
 

Turbo's Aquatics

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AHA I was wondering about that. So according to what I’ve read I would have to identify which wire is the hot wire, because as you suggest the white(neutral) will actually be hot?
No not really. In this case it's probable that the romex leg at the switch is not from the panel/circuit - that's at the light fixture. They take another piece of Romex and connect black-to-black at the light, run that to the switch, then the white goes from the other side of the switch back to the "hot" side of the light fixture. So at the switch box, you are seeing the switch leg, not the circuit leg. the switch is breaking the hot leg of the light fixture circuit for that one fixture. The white leg from switch to the light is actually part of the hot leg, technically not a neutral.
 

Sleepydoc

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AHA I was wondering about that. So according to what I’ve read I would have to identify which wire is the hot wire, because as you suggest the white(neutral) will actually be hot?
Expanding on what @Turbo's Aquatics said, there are several possible ways to wire a light and switch, it sounds like his description is how yours is wired, but there are other possibilities and whether your idea will work depends on how things are wired.

The other question is whether this is a two or three way switch. You mentioned earlier that there was another switch controlling the light. If there are two switches they would normally be three way switches, but your description of the wiring doesn't match that.

A picture would be helpful, but again, I strongly advise you to have a qualified electrician look at it. What you have here is a user (you) with minimal wiring experience trying to figure out how to change the wiring and getting advice from people on a chatroom that are trying to figure out what is going on based on an incomplete picture. It's a set up for potentially dangerous mistakes.
 
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fragit

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Expanding on what @Turbo's Aquatics said, there are several possible ways to wire a light and switch, it sounds like his description is how yours is wired, but there are other possibilities and whether your idea will work depends on how things are wired.

The other question is whether this is a two or three way switch. You mentioned earlier that there was another switch controlling the light. If there are two switches they would normally be three way switches, but your description of the wiring doesn't match that.

A picture would be helpful, but again, I strongly advise you to have a qualified electrician look at it. What you have here is a user (you) with minimal wiring experience trying to figure out how to change the wiring and getting advice from people on a chatroom that are trying to figure out what is going on based on an incomplete picture. It's a set up for potentially dangerous mistakes.
I totally agree with the danger! After doing some research I discovered that it is not so simple. So I opened the switch box at the bottom of the stairs to discover way less wires than expected. Which is why I’m here asking. If there are only 3 wires in the switch box, one should be hot, one neutral and the ground. If I identify which is hot, doesn’t it stand to reason all I have to do is wire in the outlet(bottom of stairs) and then the switch at the top of the stairs would turn both the light and outlet(bottom of stairs) on/off? @Turbo's Aquatics what do you think?
 

Sleepydoc

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I totally agree with the danger! After doing some research I discovered that it is not so simple. So I opened the switch box at the bottom of the stairs to discover way less wires than expected. Which is why I’m here asking. If there are only 3 wires in the switch box, one should be hot, one neutral and the ground. If I identify which is hot, doesn’t it stand to reason all I have to do is wire in the outlet(bottom of stairs) and then the switch at the top of the stairs would turn both the light and outlet(bottom of stairs) on/off? @Turbo's Aquatics what do you think?
No, not necessarily. I am going to stop contributing at this point because I'm concerned I may only be helping you do something dangerous.
 

Turbo's Aquatics

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No, not necessarily. I am going to stop contributing at this point because I'm concerned I may only be helping you do something dangerous.
Same here.
 

fragit

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14 foot reef

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Hope this is the correct thread and person. I'm looking for schematics or details on a step transformer for the SL 200 Aqua Ultraviolet UV Sterilizer. My step transformer some how has burned up ( Smoke coming out of the nema enclosure ). I have found the part # but the price point is pretty rediculous $650.00 +
Part Number is A30106 SL Step Transformer. See photos of smoke damage inside nema unit. Is there a way to cross reference this transformer and find it cheaper on Grainger or Amazon or anywhere outside of Aqua Ultraviolets parts replacement website.
 

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14 foot reef

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Hope this is the correct thread and person. I'm looking for schematics or details on a step transformer for the SL 200 Aqua Ultraviolet UV Sterilizer. My step transformer some how has burned up ( Smoke coming out of the nema enclosure ). I have found the part # but the price point is pretty rediculous $650.00 +
Part Number is A30106 SL Step Transformer. See photos of smoke damage inside nema unit. Is there a way to cross reference this transformer and find it cheaper on Grainger or Amazon or anywhere outside of Aqua Ultraviolets parts replacement website.
Took unit out of nema box there was a part number on it. Stancor P-8689. Found online for $95.00 shipped to my house with tax included. Way better than $650.00 !!!!! Win Win !!!
 

GarrettT

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Hello, I have a light switch and a GFCI in a 2 gang outlet box slightly near a water source. The light switch feeds the GFCI outlet power, so it remains unprotected. Question that I have, should I replace my light switch with an AFCI or switch the GFCI outlet so that it feeds the light switch. I’m more concerned with fire since it’s a light switch.
 

Sleepydoc

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Hello, I have a light switch and a GFCI in a 2 gang outlet box slightly near a water source. The light switch feeds the GFCI outlet power, so it remains unprotected. Question that I have, should I replace my light switch with an AFCI or switch the GFCI outlet so that it feeds the light switch. I’m more concerned with fire since it’s a light switch.
First, I think you’re confused about the purpose of GFCI and AFCI protection. There’s a thread around here somewhere explaining the difference, I’ll see if I can find a link for you.

Regarding your question, if you’re concerned, it’s possible to put the light switch on the load side of the GFCI outlet so it’s protected as well, but what is your concerned? If you’re concerned that the outlet and switch themselves may get splashed with water then you should either move the box, move the water or swap the box out for a weatherproof one.

What makes you concerned about fire? In general, water doesn’t lead to fire, it leads to shocks.
 

Futuretotm

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I have an ATO pump motor that fails after 6-9 months (due to cycling so many times a day).
Orig: 12V 4.5W DC

Replacement off Ebay: 12V 1-3W

The lower consumption of the new replacement pump be an issue?
 

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14 foot reef

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I wander if you could go to the more reliable pump with and AC/DC adapter like I Did.
Tunze Pump with ac/dc adapter.
Mine has been running 2 years zero issues and is controlled by my Control4 home automation outlet

Pump

AC/DC adapter

Control4 Home Automation outlet
 

Paul B

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The light switch feeds the GFCI outlet power, so it remains unprotected.
Don't worry about it. You don't need to have the switch protected by the GFI. The switch is plastic and if the switch plate is metal, it will be grounded to the box or you can put on a plastic plate.

 

Sleepydoc

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Don't worry about it. You don't need to have the switch protected by the GFI. The switch is plastic and if the switch plate is metal, it will be grounded to the box or you can put on a plastic plate.

Paul, how many times have we told you not to do electrical work while standing in your tank? :p
 

GarrettT

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I have a 400w selectable ballast (Icecap) that I plan on using to power my 400w Hamilton Cozumel large pendant MH. The power cord from the ballast to MH needs to be around 15 to 18ft. I see the Icecap ballast is only using an 18awg wire. Should I be concerned? My hardware is all behind wall, so I need a longer cord that will reach the outlet.
 
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