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abacus

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I'm not saying anything about changing anything it looks amazing, it looks extremely clean and done right, I would only be referring to the exposed NM cable talking about "legal" but if it's not tied in to the electrical panel and plugs in for power, then that shouldn't matter, either way it looks very good and Good work!!

Did you design this system first before you built it? I like the tank with it, its a complete package it all looks well thought out I wouldn't be surprised if someone has a little engineering background ;)
I'm not saying anything about changing anything it looks amazing, it looks extremely clean and done right, I would only be referring to the exposed NM cable talking about "legal" but if it's not tied in to the electrical panel and plugs in for power, then that shouldn't matter, either way it looks very good and Good work!!

Did you design this system first before you built it? I like the tank with it, its a complete package it all looks well thought out I wouldn't be surprised if someone has a little engineering background ;)
So, I'm speaking with my electrical buddy, Larry. Showed him your response and he wanted me to tell you that it is not romex. And to answer your question that I failed to do in the last post, yes I do have an engineering background. Okay have a great day and thanks again.


but 14 gauge flexible cord
 

thatmanMIKEson

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So, I'm speaking with my electrical buddy, Larry. Showed him your response and he wanted me to tell you that it is not romex. And to answer your question that I failed to do in the last post, yes I do have an engineering background. Okay have a great day and thanks again.


but 14 gauge flexible cord
It may not be romex, but it is exposed to potential damage there's probably a few things I don't know and that's not something that really has to abide by any building codes as long as it's not permanently connected to the electrical grid and it disconnects like any other electrical device "i.e like a TV, a microwave, a toster" it shouldn't matter then it's just a device. I thought it was permanently attached to circuits from your main panel. It is definitely very clean looking and I would be happy to have it myself!

Last edit :Sorry I shouldn't have brought up any legalities, tell larry it looks great! just take away from that I like it, and it looks very nice im sure it's going to be a great system with everything in place :)
 
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Koh23

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Ok, i'll try to explain best i can, maybe someone can help....

I know something about electrity, but this..not sure what to do.

I have air pump, rather air compressor for tank, and he is rated 12V DC 60W.

That i understand. But, he have connector like car lighter plug, like those mobile phone cargers that plugs into car lighter socket.

Of course i want it to run from home outlet.

Queestion is, i cant find data how many A are pump. I assume that i need simple power supply, like for led strips, etc, basicaly anything that is 220-12V.

But, how strong it need to be?

I have 12v, 1.25A supply for leds, can it be used for this pump, or is it to weak?

Thank you!
 

vetteguy53081

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Ok, i'll try to explain best i can, maybe someone can help....

I know something about electrity, but this..not sure what to do.

I have air pump, rather air compressor for tank, and he is rated 12V DC 60W.

That i understand. But, he have connector like car lighter plug, like those mobile phone cargers that plugs into car lighter socket.

Of course i want it to run from home outlet.

Queestion is, i cant find data how many A are pump. I assume that i need simple power supply, like for led strips, etc, basicaly anything that is 220-12V.

But, how strong it need to be?

I have 12v, 1.25A supply for leds, can it be used for this pump, or is it to weak?

Thank you!
I believe this is what youre looking for ?

1666270391512.png
1666270405491.png
 

Koh23

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Well, yes...

Only i wonder can i avoid purchase and make this from power source and wires?

I find info that pump is supposed to be connected to car battery..if this helps.
 

vetteguy53081

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I prefer that inverter oppsed to battery with trickle charger

1666272406252.png
 

KStatefan

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Ok, i'll try to explain best i can, maybe someone can help....

I know something about electrity, but this..not sure what to do.

I have air pump, rather air compressor for tank, and he is rated 12V DC 60W.

That i understand. But, he have connector like car lighter plug, like those mobile phone cargers that plugs into car lighter socket.

Of course i want it to run from home outlet.

Queestion is, i cant find data how many A are pump. I assume that i need simple power supply, like for led strips, etc, basicaly anything that is 220-12V.

But, how strong it need to be?

I have 12v, 1.25A supply for leds, can it be used for this pump, or is it to weak?

Thank you!

Amps = Watts / Volts

60 watts / 12 volts = 5 amps
 

Koh23

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Yes, i tought of that, but wasnt sure....

Ok, so now i know that i need 12v 5a.

Can it be for example pc power supply, or something similar, or it must be something like pics above?
 

Dcloser12

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As a licensed electrician I've read alot of comments here that bother me. Nm/b is the best solution for any residential circuit. As far as a gfci at the wall near a tank, no. I'd suggest a gfci breaker at the panel. A water resistant outlet in a standard box with a standard wall plate will be more than sufficient on a gfci circuit. Many of you may experience tripping if you have ground probes in the water. I'd also add a battery backup for a few pumps in the event the circuit trips in this instance.
 

BZOFIQ

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As a licensed electrician I've read alot of comments here that bother me. Nm/b is the best solution for any residential circuit. As far as a gfci at the wall near a tank, no. I'd suggest a gfci breaker at the panel. A water resistant outlet in a standard box with a standard wall plate will be more than sufficient on a gfci circuit. Many of you may experience tripping if you have ground probes in the water. I'd also add a battery backup for a few pumps in the event the circuit trips in this instance.


Either a breaker or remote GFCI in an easy to reach location nearby.
 

Koh23

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So nobody knows can i use some power supply, or do i need something more specific?
 

BZOFIQ

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So nobody knows can i use some power supply, or do i need something more specific?


You can use any power supply that matches the voltage and exceeds allowable current.

If you device needs 5A at 12Volt, get a DC supply that's 12V rated at 7-10Amps so that you're not overloading it.
 

BZOFIQ

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Most PC power supplies will output 12V at more than 5Amps so you should be good. I assume you know which pins to short in order to keep the PC power supply turned on
 

Koh23

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No worries there, all of things i did so far didnt release white smoke, so, its good to go.

I'm super paranoid and wanted to check this because pump isnt mine, i borrowed it, so i dont want to mess it up.

Thank you!
 

joshbd

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Hey, this should hopefully be a softball question. I'm setting up a mixing station that will in part be controlled by a float switch attached to a solenoid or mechanical ball valve. If the solenoid or valve is already 12v DC, do I really need to wire in a relay as well? If so, why? I appreciate the need for a relay if I was turning off something larger like a pump, but the solenoid is only max 5W. Can post specific parts if helpful. Thanks!
 

Sleepydoc

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Hey, this should hopefully be a softball question. I'm setting up a mixing station that will in part be controlled by a float switch attached to a solenoid or mechanical ball valve. If the solenoid or valve is already 12v DC, do I really need to wire in a relay as well? If so, why? I appreciate the need for a relay if I was turning off something larger like a pump, but the solenoid is only max 5W. Can post specific parts if helpful. Thanks!
Yes. float switches are only designed to be sensors and can only handle very low current loads. If you use that as a switch for your pump you’ll burn out the float switch. What’s worse is it will likely fuse in the ‘on’ state and cause a flood.
 

Sleepydoc

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As a licensed electrician I've read alot of comments here that bother me. Nm/b is the best solution for any residential circuit. As far as a gfci at the wall near a tank, no. I'd suggest a gfci breaker at the panel. A water resistant outlet in a standard box with a standard wall plate will be more than sufficient on a gfci circuit. Many of you may experience tripping if you have ground probes in the water. I'd also add a battery backup for a few pumps in the event the circuit trips in this instance.
I’ll disagree slightly with you - the GFI should be readily accessible (i.e. not right behind the tank). Placing it at the circuit panel will work but will be a pain in the butt when troubleshooting.

If you’re experiencing tripping with a ground probe in the water then it means you have enough current leakage to cause a problem and you should investigate.

Finally, I think the best/safest option is one that I saw recommended by someone else here a few years ago: Have individual GFIs for each device. In the event of a fault, the disconnect is isolated by the faulty device, leaving everything else unaffected. The downside of this is it costs more and takes more room but it also makes troubleshooting much quicker.
 

Paul B

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I’ll disagree slightly with you - the GFI should be readily accessible (i.e. not right behind the tank). Placing it at the circuit panel will work but will be a pain in the butt when troubleshooting.
As a Master construction electrician for almost 50 years in Manhattan I have to slightly, very slightly disagree with you on this and will side with Dcloser12.

I also like a GFI in the panel. (in the trade they are GFIs and everywhere else they are GFCIs) :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:

The company that invented the things, Levitan sent me to school for them when they came out another lifetime ago. :)

By law you are not supposed to put anything in front of the panel closer than 3' so it should always be accessible. If your panel is covered by old mops, quarantine tanks, Halloween decorations or pictures of your Mother N Law that is a fire violation and I will call the fire department on you. :rolleyes:

The GFI near your tank will most likely be near the floor under the tank or behind the couch next to your cat. The GFI breaker in the panel can be tested or changed in about one and a half minutes but the one in the receptacle next to the cat is more difficult to change especially if you are old like me and can't get there and I don't like cats.

The receptacle can also have a number of wires connected toit and some are a horror to change.

If the thing is tripping from the ground probe, move or call an electrician because that thing won't trip anything on induced current. If you have real current leaking into the water it will always be 108-120 volts and you will light up when you stick your hand in there and touch the wet cat at the same time.

Anything less than that is normal so you can go out to dinner and try the fried calamari.

The cat will also not be happy.

Just my opinion and I am old and opinionated so you don't have to listen to me.
Have a great day. :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:
 

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