Your Resident Electrician for all your electrical questions!
- Thread starter Young Frankenstein
- Start date
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Tanks are not the only thing that need a ground
is it just a two prong cord, it may not be polarized, try rotating it 180
Brew12
Electrical Gru
Make sure the wiring between the light and its power supply isn't next to other wiring.
tgp4274
Well-Known Member
will get a pix maro while i'm at work
i would think it would work as you can get a T8 to a T5 conversion end without changeing the ballest
you wont know till you try. Good luck
| Item # | Description | Energy | Length |
|---|---|---|---|
| ATI1101 | Aquablue Special (24"/24W) | 24 watts | 22.2 in. |
| ATI1103 | Aquablue Special (36"/39W) | 39 watts | 34.0 in. |
| ATI1105 | Aquablue Special (48"/54W) | 54 watts | 45.8 in. |
| ATI1107 | Aquablue Special (60"/80W) | 80 watts | 57.6 in. |
I have an old PFO dual ballast 250 watt lights come on then recycle, but each light will come and stay on. As soon as I switch the other ballast on doesn't matter which one the both go off. Any ideas as to the problem.
We have 500, 750, 1000 watt metal halides were I work and when they start cycling its one of these 3- Bulb, Igniter or ballast. Always check your connections and grounds first, and socket to bulb connection and lift center post a smidgen
GOOD LUCK
GOOD LUCK
NO, I am not sure if a t8 ballast will work for a t5 ho. I compared the wattage of your ballast to 2 24" ho (chart) If that ballast was capable of running t5ho I believe it would be listed on the label.
If it were me I would put my time and energy into New system components knowing I have the proper equipment that will function and last as expected. if you are thinking you will save a few bucks, add up all the pieces and costs.
I also agree with Brew on diminished life of bulb and ballast, now toss in used ballasts, not worth the time.
EDIT: Contact a lighting supply Co. Champion lighting Supply is a reefing dealer, if they are still in Bizz?
Im just a maintenance guy
(2) Lamp, F54T5/HO, 120/277V, Programed Start, 1.00 Ballast Factor, Sylvania 49130
| $22.00 | ohBulbs.com |
| $23.00 | Amazon.com - Seller |
| $19.98 | Payless4Lighting |
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I am looking at a Ranco controller. I do not want to push the Inkbird with 1000 watts
I rebuilt my heater holder to hold 4 heaters but only have 3 at 800 watts in it now. I have not been through a winter in this house and am trying to get ready for the unforeseen. I may have to run another circuit for heaters.
Under the ratings it says this.
Contact Ratings 120v:
16.0 AFL
96.0 ALR
What does this mean? I am not familiar with the terminology. It does say 15 amps for resistive loads like heaters which is what I care about.
I rebuilt my heater holder to hold 4 heaters but only have 3 at 800 watts in it now. I have not been through a winter in this house and am trying to get ready for the unforeseen. I may have to run another circuit for heaters.
Under the ratings it says this.
Contact Ratings 120v:
16.0 AFL
96.0 ALR
What does this mean? I am not familiar with the terminology. It does say 15 amps for resistive loads like heaters which is what I care about.
Thanks. I never did much with motor loads.
800 x 3 = 2400 watts divide by volts 120 = 20 amps ;Wideyed if your house has 110 volts it is 21.8 or 22
Generally heaters or continuous loads ( 3-hours or greater ) your required to X by 1.25 your sum
Generally heaters or continuous loads ( 3-hours or greater ) your required to X by 1.25 your sum
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