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Turbo's Aquatics · Oct 2, 2019

siggy said:
800 x 3 = 2400 watts divide by volts 120 = 20 amps ;Wideyed if your house has 110 volts it is 21.8 or 22
Generally heaters or continuous loads ( 3-hours or greater ) your required to X by 1.25 your sum

Whose post were you replying to?

WVNed · Oct 2, 2019

siggy said:
800 x 3 = 2400 watts divide by volts 120 = 20 amps ;Wideyed if your house has 110 volts it is 21.8 or 22
Generally heaters or continuous loads ( 3-hours or greater ) your required to X by 1.25 your sum

Very true but 300 + 300 + 200 = 800

siggy · Oct 2, 2019

Turbo's Aquatics said:
Whose post were you replying to?

WVNed said:
Very true but 300 + 300 + 200 = 800

OOPS thought you had 3 @800w

WVNed · Oct 2, 2019

siggy said:
OOPS thought you had 3 @800w

I ended up with a lot more stuff plugged in than I planned for and it's cold (sometimes 66) in the basement.
I do have the gas heater so I can warm the room the tanks are in if I need to.
There is a third circuit in the fish room I can use in case of emergency.

siggy · Oct 2, 2019

just for fun ;Wacky I did a btu conversion of your 400 gallon @ 1500 gph flow
to raise it 2 deg based at 25 gal per min is just under 800 watts
Sump room have a hot water tank or furnace, that will help

WVNed · Oct 2, 2019

siggy said:
just for fun ;Wacky I did a btu conversion of your 400 gallon @ 1500 gph flow
to raise it 2 deg based at 25 gal per min is just under 800 watts
Sump room have a hot water tank or furnace, that will help

I tried the online calculators and got all kids of results 600 to 3000 watts. If Jill gets a hot flash and turns down the AC it gets to be 68 in the basement when it is 71 upstairs. 800 watts has held it overnight. I was doing OK withe 600 watts at 300 gallons. The MH lights hold it through the day. At extremes I get about a 2 degree temp swing over 24 hours but usually it is only 1. The gas heater in the basement has a thermostat and doesn't require power to work. It is a large free standing iron thing that is vented. It will heat the room the tanks are in to 80. So I have a plan B.

siggy · Oct 2, 2019

Put this under you sump

AB_Reefer · Oct 13, 2019

Hi all,

I'm looking to get a battery power back up something like what ecotech makes to power my return DC reef octopus pump.
The retun pump is 36v 96w unit so i guess the ecotech back up wont work with it.
Is there any other alternative option?

If i use a big sized UPS will it be sufficient to power it for an hour at the max..
Sorry for the nob question.. Thanks a lot..

Paul B · Oct 14, 2019

I installed a ground probe on my left foot. Before I go near my tank, I stick it in the ground.

siggy · Oct 14, 2019

If your handy you can make one using an old UPS. Or just buy a UPS

look into the solar energy market for solutions

AB_Reefer said:
If i use a big sized UPS will it be sufficient to power it for an hour at the max..

AB_Reefer · Oct 15, 2019

siggy said:
If your handy you can make one using an old UPS. Or just buy a UPS look into the solar energy market for solutions

Hi Siggy,

When looking into UPS is bigger better or there are some other things we should be looking at. I'm looking at getting a 600w - 700w UPS which I think should power my return pump for about an hour..

siggy · Oct 15, 2019

AB_Reefer said:
Hi Siggy,

When looking into UPS is bigger better or there are some other things we should be looking at. I'm looking at getting a 600w - 700w UPS which I think should power my return pump for about an hour..

There are online calculators that will give you an idea of what you need. Do you need the return to run? I believe most just run a wave pump until power is restored, thats why the ice cap or ecotech are popular. There are a few battery backup treads here.
if you have time https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/power-generation-and-storage.567820/

Crashjack · Oct 18, 2019

Maybe a little OT, but who would I call to repair an LED fixture with channel(s) out? The fixture is 5' long, and the only option I've gotten so far from the company that built (Nanobox Reef) is to ship it back to them. I don't see that as a viable solution and would rather just pay someone to come fix. I know a guy who owns/operates a large electrician company, and he didn’t want to touch it with a 10’ pole. Who would you call for something like this?

Elegance Coral · Nov 10, 2019

I have some kessil LED lights that aren't working. I'm thinking the diode is fine, but the electronics driving them is shot. Each LED puck/cluster/what ever you want to call it, has 12 wires total coming off of it. 5 black and one brown on one side, and the same on the other. I assume the brown wires are neutrals and the blacks are power? If I bypass all the electronics, and wire the power supply straight to the LED, it should work like it's on full power, correct?

Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

siggy · Nov 10, 2019

Are you prepared to lose the light if you start messing with it?
Generally Brown is hot or +24v and Blue is 0v or -24. Those lights and clusters are another ball of wax so who knows.
IF it were me I would send to Kessil for repairs, what you get back would be a refurbished light.
Everything I have heard is GREAT CS from them. Good luck

Brew12 · Nov 10, 2019

Elegance Coral said:
I have some kessil LED lights that aren't working. I'm thinking the diode is fine, but the electronics driving them is shot. Each LED puck/cluster/what ever you want to call it, has 12 wires total coming off of it. 5 black and one brown on one side, and the same on the other. I assume the brown wires are neutrals and the blacks are power? If I bypass all the electronics, and wire the power supply straight to the LED, it should work like it's on full power, correct?

Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

I suspect you are correct with the power and neutral. My guess is that the 4 black wires are one for each channel. The issue with what you are talking about is in not knowing just how much voltage and current is needed by each channel. LED drivers don't just supply voltage, they also limit current to keep from frying the LED's.

bmbpka · Nov 30, 2019

Alright looking for some help. We have been in our new house for 5months now, tank has been set up since day one, first thing that got moved. Recently we have been tripping the 15amp breaker the tank is on. At first I thought our newly hung Xmas lights were doing it, so I moved them to a separate circuit. We were good for about three days no issue. Assumed I fixed it... until 15min ago, when the breaker tripped.

I’ve done the math, at full capacity of all equipment, I’m below 1,440 watts. I believe 80% capacity is what is recommend on a 15amp...

I’m at a loss what could be tripping this breaker. My only other guess would be that it’s colder now then it was 3months ago and my heaters are working harder. one of the heaters is a bit older maybe 1.5-2 years old. Could an issue with the heater be doing this?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Starting to really make me nervous.

Snoopy 67 · Nov 30, 2019

A bad heater will definitely trip a breaker.
I would pick up a new one & switch them out 1 @ a time to find the culprit.
Worst case scenario you have a spare.

bmbpka · Nov 30, 2019

Snoopy 67 said:
A bad heater will definitely trip a breaker.
I would pick up a new one & switch them out 1 @ a time to find the culprit.
Worst case scenario you have a spare.

that was plan for tomorrow. Switch out the oldest one first.

Backreefing · Nov 30, 2019

Unplug one peace of equipment at a time until the breaker stops tripping off . To find the bad peace , but is it the breaker itself ? They can go bad time to time . You could go to your breaker box and switch breakers with a different circuit and see if it still tripping . Good luck