“The Lab” - What I now call my garage.

HeyLookItsCaps

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quick video of my garage and what I am now calling “the Lab”. As you can see I tried my hand at cutting glass, and suffice it to say I will be sticking to other experiments.

I have found that I am much more handy than I realized in the past, and have made a hobby out of buying broken reef equipment and trying to fix it. So far I have repaired 3 dead AI hydra 26 HD that I got for 100 total and now use as a supplement in my main display, I have fixed a leaking waterbox tank that is now my torch tank, and now I am repairing the chip board on an ATI sun power dimmable that wasn’t responding on the screen and not turning on from a guy who was throwing it away already got it running and now I’m just waiting for a momentary button to solder onto the board to get all the functions the bins in the video run into the house to my tanks, 1 RO for ATO’s and 1 NSW for auto water changes.

The black mat is where I am going to be placing a new frag tank I ordered after shattering the old junky free tank in the video. The sump on my work bench was my old display tank sump before I got my TriggerSys that was beat up and had a small leak in it, so today I am learning how to polish acrylic.

never thought I would put this much time and effort into the “non reefing” side of our hobby, but here we are.

“The Lab”

As far as the tank that is going in here, I posted in another thread about it, but it probably deserves its own build thread so I can document.

here’s the list :

Alright, either have or am getting the final setup in the mail now.

Advanced acrylics 48x24x10
going to run it peninsula style facing out from my mixing barrels for 3 sided viewing. I just want something different than most tanks that are middle overflow with returns blowing the short side.

lighting will be an ATI sunpower dimmable 48”x4x54 T5 with 2 48” reefbrite XHO actinics. They will be held in place by horticulture style pulley caribeners, that way I can lower it to

Overflow is going to be a drilled external, either an eshopps S or L (600gph/1000gph) with 1 inch drain lines to my sump.

Sump is my old one from the display that I repaired and am building baffles for. Chamber 1 will have 7 inch filter sock separated with a triggersys style inlet. sca skimmer in chamber 1.5, middle chamber will be LR/biosphere (largest chamber in sump for bio filter) *not sure if sand is a good idea here?*, final chamber is going to house a pump to run through my JBJ chiller and a VarioS2 (714gph dc) up to dual 1/2 return lines on either side of overflow, loclines with Y’s for flares and random flow generators aiming low, a gyre on the opposing side of the return aiming high, with 2 11-22 mad rack pros. (I also have a CF GRO 100w horticulture refugium light I don’t use since I started doing display macros in my display fuge, not sure if I’ll need this or chaeto? I can split the middle chamber to accommodate if y’all think that’s the best.)

Metal 48x14x30 steel stand, on the top I’m going to bolt down butcher block for the upper tank and the lower rack will have another one to hold the sump in place.

All of this will be controller by another apex (I already have 2 setup).
 
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HeyLookItsCaps

HeyLookItsCaps

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Components are starting to arrive. Got my apex setup after finding a local guy selling equipment. He also had the Pax Bellum reactor and I couldn’t say no. I like toys too much. Going to set up and test all equipment prior to tank arrival.

advanced acrylics contacted me today and are going to install an eclipse M overflow for me so I don’t have to stress on that. It is going to be set up peninsula style with 2 bulkhead returns flanking the center overflow.

Canal Plastics is cutting out my sump baffles as we speak. Going to mimic a trigger systems sump with this one. Inlet to sock, sock waterfalls over into skimmer area, middle cuts in 1 to 2 chamber baffle to keep water level even. I’m chamber 2 I am going to have my chaeto reactor, maxspect bio blocks, my heater, pump to chiller/return from chiller, and probes. Chamber 2 to 3 will be a W pattern with a serrated tooth moving baffle piece to control water height. Chamber 3 will hold my ato gauge/ato return, and a VarioS 2 return pump.

I have the gyre in there now just to test but it will be set up in the same position on the display/frag tank opposing the returns and overflow.

Never built a frag tank but I’m knee deep now!


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HeyLookItsCaps

HeyLookItsCaps

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Latest project completed : repair ATI dimmable sunpower fan (and subsequently the control board buttons…)

So a buddy of mine gave me his old dimmable 4 bulb ati sunpower. He didn’t use it because the fan broke and it wouldn’t stay cool. So I decidedto take it into the Lab to replace it. Pretty easy and straight forward job. Got it up and running with a 5 dollar fan and some quick solder work. Upon putting it back together apparently one of the controller buttons got caught on the aluminum outer sleeve and snapped off the control board. Shoot. That’s a little out of my skill level so I made a call to ATI to order a replacement, 4-8 weeks out at minimum for a new board. Well, I guess it’s DIY time.

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All said and done it works! Guess I had less faith in myself than deserved.

Finished up testing
 
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HeyLookItsCaps

HeyLookItsCaps

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Alright so I almost got everything in for setup.

going to buy my trigger systems sump this week local to finalize parts.

then it’s plumbing time.

while I’m waiting for the final parts to arrive I water tested all my equipment. I decided to just get a cycle going in a big black bin while testing. I threw the maxspect bio blocks/spheres I’m going to use in the sump for the frag tank in there with some turbo start and a nasty filter pad from one of my other tanks. Does anyone have any other recommendations for cycling and starting a frag tank? This is my first time not using rocks in the display!
 

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Latest project completed : repair ATI dimmable sunpower fan (and subsequently the control board buttons…)

So a buddy of mine gave me his old dimmable 4 bulb ati sunpower. He didn’t use it because the fan broke and it wouldn’t stay cool. So I decidedto take it into the Lab to replace it. Pretty easy and straight forward job. Got it up and running with a 5 dollar fan and some quick solder work. Upon putting it back together apparently one of the controller buttons got caught on the aluminum outer sleeve and snapped off the control board. Shoot. That’s a little out of my skill level so I made a call to ATI to order a replacement, 4-8 weeks out at minimum for a new board. Well, I guess it’s DIY time.

9B619603-6047-4D05-BB0C-A66CEC21D9F5.jpeg


4C996546-673A-42BF-93DE-C9A20D48037C.jpeg


78FD7697-C57F-4389-90D8-95EDF38ABF3D.jpeg


AA0A16A9-C370-4B3E-828F-86F268D049C2.jpeg


F402716F-8757-4A61-9F5D-207E2C6531E1.jpeg


603CF8FA-26B8-4756-B25D-76CF556746D2.jpeg


All said and done it works! Guess I had less faith in myself than deserved.

Finished up testing
Impressive!
 
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HeyLookItsCaps

HeyLookItsCaps

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Got a yummy looking tub cycle going in the Lab, going to pick up my trigger systems sump tomorrow. Then waiting on Advanced Acrylics to get the display to my door. Then we’re off to the races


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HeyLookItsCaps

HeyLookItsCaps

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Plus bins on bins on bins of gear! Some new, some used, some well loved. We’re getting so close….. Katy and I are getting married Nov 13 so I’m hoping I’ll have it up and running in time for the big day. Good double anniversary

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HeyLookItsCaps

HeyLookItsCaps

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more photos of me cleaning equipment and getting things placed. Excuse the wiring, just mock up for where things go. Also tried my hand at some acrylic, made a custom splash guard for my sump with a 1.5 gasket to hold drain piping, even rounded the edges like trigger systems does haha, now I just gotta polish it!

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HeyLookItsCaps

HeyLookItsCaps

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Finally got my display in! I love the quality Advanced Acrylics puts into their work, but their communication and customer service is rough. Either way it showed up today after being told it would be over 2 weeks ago and I’m setting it all up. Now it’s time for plumbing, my least favorite thing with reefing.

ive had the sump cycling bio blocks and water for over a month now in hopes of getting a good jump start.

quick picture and video, my goal with this whole setup is to give a good home to growing coral and show that no expense was spared in their care.

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Quick video (ignore the Madonna lol)
 
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HeyLookItsCaps

HeyLookItsCaps

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We’re leakin boys!

words of experience, when you run out of blue pvc, don’t paint white pvc and then attempt to glue it together…. Either buy more blue pvc or paint it after it’s glued in place. The paint will glue but the pipe will not and you’ll have Swiss cheese level leaks.

the labs maiden voyage started off a little rough, but it’s only up from here!
 
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Day : 01

captains log - tank is holding water, we are churning some serious water with 2 gyre 250s (only ramped to 10%), lights are on schedule, and herbie overflow (never used anything but Durso) is running beautifully and dead silent. Next steps are to upgrade main return, I bought a VarioS 2 at 800gph but I don’t think I accounted for piping or head pressure so it will be going into the back up bin and a VarioS 6 dialed back will take its place. Pax Bellum reactor is coded and ready for chaeto from my overstocked fuge. Speaking of which, can nori work in a reactor like the N18? I have it coming out my ears in my main fuge and even the tangs can’t keep up.

As soon as I test my levels and verify it’s done cycling (water has been cycling with bio blocks for almost 2 months waiting for the display) I will be throwing in a frag of WWC laser lemons I got in my monthly subscription box.

I am considering fish now for the future work ahead.

My list so far (feel free to criticize or comment) :
Tomini/foxface
Lawn mower/starry blenny
6 line wrasse/fairy wrasse
Possible set of clowns just for organics.

My goal with fish is for them to have a job, and also be a higher end/visual addition. The whole theory with the lab is to give off a “no expense spared” take on frag propagation, so I would love to hear thoughts for working enjoyable fish.

the next steps from there are cleaning up wiring, creating a control board for apex/varios/gyre/Co2 controllers, and then prepping the calcium reactor for starting.
 

Rock solid aquascape: Does the weight of the rocks in your aquascape matter?

  • The weight of the rocks is a key factor.

    Votes: 12 8.9%
  • The weight of the rocks is one of many factors.

    Votes: 46 34.1%
  • The weight of the rocks is a minor factor.

    Votes: 44 32.6%
  • The weight of the rocks is not a factor.

    Votes: 31 23.0%
  • Other.

    Votes: 2 1.5%
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