OP
OP
Here they are:
Dinos. Should I upgrade UV sterilizer?
- Thread starter Serpentman2024
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OP
OP
Here they are. Look like dinos to me.
saltytanked
Community Member
Dose silicates
Lavey29
10K Club member
gbroadbridge
2500 Club Member
OP
OP
Here is a better pic and video at higher magnification. Pretty sure its Ostreopsis.
Here is a better pic and video at higher magnification. Pretty sure its Ostreopsis.
Hope you get an answer, but not holding my breath, seen people get pushed into buying a microscope then either get no followup or a generic reply of dose silicates and use a UV.
Why a pound of prevention better than a pound of microscope.
OP
OP
I guess back to the original question. Wondering if I should stick with my current UV or upgrade. The Lifegard won't fit but this one will. At $400, I'm not in a huge hurry unless it'll make a significant difference.
www.bulkreefsupply.com
25 Watt Classic UV Sterilizer - Black Body
Aqua Ultraviolet UV Sterilizers will eradicate algae, bacteria, and protozoa without any harmful chemicals or additives! UV lamps emit a wavelength that will alter and disrupt the DNA or RNA of single-celled organisms. Combining the UV lamp into a large housing allows for maximum contact time...
www.bulkreefsupply.com
resortez
Active Member
My personal recommendation would be to raise up those NO3s, the system is starving & allowing the dinos to bloom. I am curious of your system & what equipment do you have running. If possible, can you share other numbers & filtration equipment???
Seems a lot of money for only a 10w upgrade…hate to repeat myself but if you can’t source a deltec in the US would buying from the UK be an option? Called D-D in the UK, You could get a 48w for £260, obviously you would have shipping and have to look into the voltage difference from the UK to USA and spare bulbs but 48w would give you nearer 100w using their bulbs.I guess back to the original question. Wondering if I should stick with my current UV or upgrade. The Lifegard won't fit but this one will. At $400, I'm not in a huge hurry unless it'll make a significant difference.
25 Watt Classic UV Sterilizer - Black Body
Aqua Ultraviolet UV Sterilizers will eradicate algae, bacteria, and protozoa without any harmful chemicals or additives! UV lamps emit a wavelength that will alter and disrupt the DNA or RNA of single-celled organisms. Combining the UV lamp into a large housing allows for maximum contact time...
Don’t know which mj required for Dino but attached is the chart based on Pentair and from speaking to them one really needs 280000 mj for pathogens. I’m assuming AquaUV has the same 8 wt UV-C which is what actually disrupts the DNA and not the total wattage. I’d go off Pentair’s chart.
Could call them. The rep is extremely helpful and been in the industry for decades. Spent couple of hours talking to him. As always. Learned something.
Could call them. The rep is extremely helpful and been in the industry for decades. Spent couple of hours talking to him. As always. Learned something.
You can keep it simple. Get a small UV you just put in your display, i got mine years ago off amazon for $30 i think it was a 9watt in a 100g tank. Run that 24/7. Open your skimmer all the way and run that 20/7. The 4 hours it is off, dose some microbacter 7 or Dr. Tims waste away. That will balance out the good bacteria. Cut your "white" lights out, just run the blue if you have corals. Reduce feeding anything to bare minimal, and do not do water changes. Also turn up your flow, you want the water column completely getting into your socks or roller. Good time to add copepods and a decent cleanup crew. This should do the trick and will take roughly 2 weeks or so.
ZAB
Active Member
premium aquatics has a Vecton Titian 850 uv { 25 Watts } new to the market in the U S A . Mr Saltwater tank has a video on Saltwater Aquarium.com . I have one being delivered this week... Have similar issues as you. Will let you know how it works
OP
OP
Thanks everyone! Although I'm thinking my current UV is slightly underpowered, I also think its been keeping them at bay as they're currently a nuisance vs being overrun. Still struggling with dropping another $400 for 10 more watts.
I'm going to cut the lights back and run a little dirty. Right now my nutrients are super low (1.5 NO3, and PO4 is not registering on my Salifert kit - Hanna meter is coming this week). I worry about dosing pods right now with my UV tuned to total kill.
I'm going to cut the lights back and run a little dirty. Right now my nutrients are super low (1.5 NO3, and PO4 is not registering on my Salifert kit - Hanna meter is coming this week). I worry about dosing pods right now with my UV tuned to total kill.
OP
OP
Agree. Seems a little much for the added wattage. Unfortunately, given the hassle of buying replacement bulbs, etc., if I can't source a Deltec here, I'll probably stick with a US based model.
UV doesn’t actually kill it usually only sterilizers what goes through it, adding some pods would be worthwhile as they are cheap but I wouldn’t over do it. All the pods are unlikely to go through the UV.
Adding silicates would be worthwhile too as people tend to get a mix of dinos, silicates will also benefit your tank in general and corals, I used SpongExcel you can’t really add too much, add much more than the instructions as the instructions are for a food source for sponges, you want to add so much to cause a diatoms outbreak, really helped my dino issue, the UV had the biggest affect though, the SpongExcel cleared up the strays.
Don’t forget to scrub and vacuum the sand as that helps a ton.
Adding silicates would be worthwhile too as people tend to get a mix of dinos, silicates will also benefit your tank in general and corals, I used SpongExcel you can’t really add too much, add much more than the instructions as the instructions are for a food source for sponges, you want to add so much to cause a diatoms outbreak, really helped my dino issue, the UV had the biggest affect though, the SpongExcel cleared up the strays.
Don’t forget to scrub and vacuum the sand as that helps a ton.
OP
OP
Fortunately, I have a good local source so will load up on them.
On a side note. Got rid of my Dino with silicate. Since it was a test tank and I wanted to test something else related to tap. I swapped distilled for tap along with Fuge/ATS got rid of them for me to never show up again. Had battled them for six months plus after doing nothing different other than swapping a Kessil 160 for a Gen 6 Pro.
I’m not 100% sure what kept them at bay but getting rid of them was after changing evaporation to tap. Have to assume only plausible affect being silicate in my tap.
Was going to try pods next.
I’m not 100% sure what kept them at bay but getting rid of them was after changing evaporation to tap. Have to assume only plausible affect being silicate in my tap.
Was going to try pods next.
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