BRS 5-stage + solenoid shutoff

Daddio · Apr 16, 2014

Got a BRS 5-stage plus rodi unit and have it running straight with no shutoff as I am filling barrels for a 150 build. I will need to install a shutoff though and had messed around with it a bit with no luck. This is way more complex than my old coralife pure flo II. I have a trusty old solenoid shutoff that never once failed on my old unit.

My question is, where in the sequence does the solenoid go. This new unit has the shutoff valve that would work with a float. The valve is before the ro membrane right where I had installed my the solenoid previously. If I install it there, will that valve mess up how the solenoid works? Do I need to remove that valve?

Also on another note, this unit seems painfully slow... No way I am getting 75 gal per day. My pressure is 45psi. Took about 12 hours to make 25 gallons and seems like my waste water is gushing out the side of my house.

Although, I am pulling 0 TDS which I was never able to get on my old unit...

AZDesertRat · Apr 17, 2014

If you have an ASOV, autoshutoff valve, the solenoid valve will go on the treated water line so when the float switches or sensor trigger it to close, it causes backpressure on the ASOV shutting off thhe waste flow at the same time.

Do you have a "flush kit" on the waste line and is it possibly in the bypass position going around the flow restrictor? This would cut production drastically. What is your water temperature, water pressure and measured waste ratio? All of these affect GPD.

Daddio · Apr 17, 2014

Got it. Makes sense.

I do have the flush kit. Should that valve ball valve be closed or open?

AZDesertRat · Apr 18, 2014

In normal operation the ball valve will be off allowing water to pass through the flow restrictor. Each time before you shut the system off open the ball valve for about 1 minute to flush "accumulated solids" out before turning the system off. This is really more of a "warm fuzzy feeling" than anything but it makes some people feel like they are doing something. I have never seen any documented studies or proof it does anything though and when you automate the system with an ATO system you will not always be there to open the valve so it soon becomes forgotten which is no big deal.
If you really want something that adds value install a DI bypass valve and flush the TDS creep to the drain before it hits your DI resin each time the system starts up, that does have proven value and saves you money in DI replacements. Flush kits "flush" the waste side of the membrane, TDS creep resides on the treated side of the membrane so they do nothing for that like a DI bypass does.