Dosing Revisited

Bernardhny · Sep 1, 2014

Awhile back I had some problems with dosing and everyone provided me some great advice. Now that my tank has stabilized and I have the time and energy to experiment again I looking to make sure I understand the concepts for success.

My current parameters:

55G Cube tank
PH 8.1
Alk 8.0
Calcium 430
Magnesium 1430
Phosphate .03
Nitrate < 5ppm
Salinity 1.026

These numbers were taken 4 hours after a 10G water change (I do a 10G change every week).

Correct me if I am wrong, but I was under the impression that the best time to determine how much dosing is needed is right after a water change. The idea is that if your calcium, alk or mag are low AFTER the water change than you are trying to dose up to correct that number. Since my parameters are in check I shouldn't need to dose because each week, I am capable of returning the numbers to the levels I want.

So this is where I have a problem understanding the lack of coral growth in my tank. I have Zoas that do not spread, some do not open. I have done a freshwater dip, no change. They just never open or fully open. The only thing that seems to grow is my rose bulb anemone (tripled in size), leather coral (it is huge) and torch corals that have spread 4 heads in the last year.

I would like to see my Montipora's grow, my zoas spread and I want to branch off to start putting acropora in my tank. My fear is that I will invest in the coral and be disappointed. My acans never seem to grow either.

I do broadcast feed with Reef Chili, Liquid Oyster Feast, and Brightwell Reef Blizzard-0. I do the Reef Blizzard every night, Chili every two days and Liquid Oyster Feast daily. I would be hard pressed to think the problem was Feeding, or light.

Some other items: I have LED lights. 1 Current USA 24" Bar running program M1 (coral growth), and two 24 inch LED Light bars (white and White/Blue).

Thoughts? I know I jumped around, but I was thinking the lack of growth was due to the need to dose but not sure that is an accurate theory.

Thanks

Bernard

Bernardhny · Sep 1, 2014

Correction, the program is M3, not M1.

bknapp · Sep 2, 2014

To figure out what you need to dose you need to test every day at (as close as possible) the same time everyday and record your results. After three days you figure out your usage and therfore you figure out the amount needed to get back into the range you need it to be in. This process is ever evolving, I still test my tank pretty much every night.

The old adage is still true:

Stability
Promotes
Success

Also, how much flow is in your tank and which test kits did you use?

In a tank that size with a limited number of corals water changes may suffice until you start adding more demanding corals such as acropora.

Bernardhny · Sep 2, 2014

Answer: Flow

I have two Hydor Evolution Powerheads at 600gph. On on the top left side of the tank and the other on the opposite side. I also have the overflow return nozzle and the HOB skimmer. It might not be enough. I was thinking of getting two MP10's but the cost is so high that it makes me want to puke.

mrcoffee2 · Sep 2, 2014

I add two scoops of tropic marin trace elements to my 5G ATO bucket. I then use that bucket to top off the 4 tanks in my house. I have seen some crazy coral growth in every tank, it also reduces how frequent my water changes are. At times going up to 3 months+! That being said, everything I just suggested is not reccomended. I enjoy doing mainteneance but the reality is I am a lazy reefer

and I did not want to get into dosing unless it was so easy a caveman could do it

. I stumbled accross this practice from some one who has been in the game 20+ years... I took a chance and followed his advice and it has worked for me! Just my .02

mrcoffee2 · Sep 2, 2014

Bernardhny said:
I have two Hydor Evolution Powerheads at 600gph. On on the top left side of the tank and the other on the opposite side. I also have the overflow return nozzle and the HOB skimmer. It might not be enough. I was thinking of getting two MP10's but the cost is so high that it makes me want to puke.

I agree on the price. Have you looked at Jebao?

reeffirstaid · Sep 2, 2014

I would consider using Bulk Reef's Supplies' supplements, and their online reef calculator. Get the supplements, and test your water when they arrive. Add what is needed after that test, using BRS' calculators. Test everything again in 12 hours, and it should be right on par with the concentrations you dosed for. If so, do nothing for another 24 hours. Test again in 24 hours, to see how much the values have dropped. Calculate your dosing with the calculator, and that is your daily dose. The goal is, to see how much calcium and alkalinity your reef fluctuates in a 24 hour period, and dose for that amount. If you add or remove corals, then you need to re-test and re-calculate, as the rate at which calcium and alk change, will change with livestock additions.

Also, you typically should not have to dose magnesium daily. Corals use far less magnesium than they do calcium or carbonate. I test my magnesium level every 14 days, and adjust it if needed. Normally it's around 1300 at that point, so not much adjustment is necessary. The main goal of dosing is to prevent fluctuation.

If I were you, I'd keep your Alk where it is, at 8 / let your calcium settle out to 380 ppm and your Magnesium down to 1350. I've found those to be great parameters, that allow everything, even SPS species, a good chance at growth. In reality though, you are probably alright keeping your tank where it's at, and beginning dosing. It sounds complicated, but if you follow the instructions and use the calculator, it's not. The toughest part is mixing the dry mixes with RODI water.

redfishbluefish · Sep 2, 2014

I don't think your problem is dosing (yet). I think your problem is quanity/quality of light. You have a 55 gallon tank and only 48 watts of LED's over it (and yes, I know we shouldn't go by watts itself.) That just seems a bit low....quite a bit low.