skinz78
10K Club member
So you may be wondering to yourself what is a sump and what is a refugium. Well let me do my best to help you better understand what each of these is. I will just touch on some of the components that go into them as well. I will add links to more detailed threads with more info on each individual component as time go's by.
A sump is a tank that is plumbed in to the display tank and holds all the devices you don't want to see cluttering up the display tank. For example, the Protein skimmer, canister filters, heaters, calcium reactors, phosphate reactors, etc.
First off you will need a way to supply water to the sump. This is achieved by usage of a built in overflow or a overflow box. Some tanks are fortunate enough to have a built in overflow. The built in overflow will have a hole drilled into the bottom of the tank with a bulkhead installed so a drain pipe can be plumbed from it to the sump. If you have a glass aquarium and can't drill it then you will need a overflow box. A overflow box is a hang on box that utilizes a constant siphon off of the top of the display tank. I have a cpr overflow box on my 75g tank and I am very happy with it. I also use an aqua lifter pump to ensure that siphon isn't lost causing the tank to overflow.
Sizing your overflow, you will determine this by the total water volume in your system. I use a 800 gph overflow on my system which is approx 100 gallons total. I use an 800 gph return pump as well. I also have a ball valve installed in the drain pipe to help me regulate the flow between the overflow and the return pump.
There are a few factors in deciding the sump size. It all comes down to what are you going to try and fit in there. :wink:
The first thing to go into a sump is a protein skimmer. A protein skimmer is a device that utilizes air and water to remove solids "detritus" from the water column. The skimmer injects air into the water creating bubbles making a foamy froth. These bubbles bond with the solids and upon rising they take the solids into a collection cup.
When selecting a skimmer I recommend taking the skimmer that the manufacturer recommends and doubling it. So if you have a 100g system then you should have a skimmer for a 200g system. Skimmer manufacturers tend to over rate the skimmers. There are three types of protein skimmers: 1. hang on, witch isn't a very good skimmer. 2. In sump this skimmer sits inside of the sump, 3. Recirculating, is a skimmer that is out of the sump and uses a pump to supply it or you can place a T in your drain line from the overflow and gravity feed it.
Of the 3 I suggest the recirculating skimmer, they tend to be cheaper and there are a lot of options out there. 8)
Next you will need a space for filters. "IE" canister filters, Phosban reactors, calcium reactors, etc. Most of these items are hang on or external and require a feeder pump to supply them. This pump is what sits in the sump. I take the size needed for a skimmer and double it for these filters. You can never have too much space for these, so if you don't fill the space at first you probably will in the future. I use a canister filter for holding loose filter media such as carbon. A Phosban reactor is used for removing phosphate from the water via the use of loose media. Water is ran through a Phosban reactor very slowly, quick movement pummels the media causing it to disintegrate. A calcium reactor is used to replenish calcium levels in the display tank. Most corals and invertebrates need calcium to grow.
Next to go in is the heaters, yes I said heaters. :shock: I highly recommend using two heaters, one to be used all the time and one to be used as a backup for when the first heater fails. Most tanks that have heater failure loose a lot of the livestock before the reef keeper knows that the heater has failed. Heaters are small and can be fitted around the other equipment so it isn't crucial to plan for space for them. When selecting a heater the manufacturers recommendation is pretty accurate so I always go with what they say.
Last you will need space at the opposite side of the sump from the skimmer for the return pump. Return pumps come in many various sizes. So pretty much you will need to decide on what gph you wish to run and this will determine the space needed for the pump. I recommend asking questions about any pumps that you use in your system. Pumps create heat, use alot of electricity, and make noise. So to sum it up you want to look for the coolest running, most energy efficient, and quietest you can find.
Refugium
A refugium can allow you to do two separate things that sometimes can't be done in a display tank.
The first is have a safe haven for macro algae to grow. Macro algae is a biological alternative for removing phosphates. What is macro algae? Simply put it is seaweed. A seaweed may belong to one of several groups of multicellular algae: the red algae, green algae, and brown algae. As these three groups are not thought to have a common multicellular ancestor, the seaweeds are a paraphyletic group. In addition, some tuft-forming bluegreen algae (Cyanobacteria) are sometimes considered as seaweeds.
The second is to have a safe place for your amphipods and copepods to inhabit and multiply. You want these in your system mainly to feed the fish. Here is some links to help you get to know more about them.
Amphipods
Copepods
In a refugium you will need a light and very slow moving water. I have mineral mud in the bottom of mine as well. As for types of macro algae's to use Chaetomorpha or Caluerpa are the most commonly used. Although caution should be used when adding Caluerpa, it is illegal to have in some states and it can go sexual and migrate into the display tank.
Now here is where it gets even better, you can combine the use of a sump and a refugium into one tank saving space. One great thing about adding these to the system is that you increase your water volume and in doing so making it easier to hold your water parameters stable. One major factor to consider when doing either of these setups is that when you do them you take into consideration weather the sump or refugium tank is big enough to handle the amount of water that will siphon out of the tank when the power is lost. If set up right the amount of water siphoned say for a 75g tank should only be about 5 gallons. Your overflow box set height is what determines this amount of water.
OK and here is a quick video of my setup. LOL pardon the awesome video graphy. I also forgot to mention you can place problematic fish in there as well. LOL this is my clowns hangout right now. He was naughty and is in time out. :rofl:
video link
A sump is a tank that is plumbed in to the display tank and holds all the devices you don't want to see cluttering up the display tank. For example, the Protein skimmer, canister filters, heaters, calcium reactors, phosphate reactors, etc.
First off you will need a way to supply water to the sump. This is achieved by usage of a built in overflow or a overflow box. Some tanks are fortunate enough to have a built in overflow. The built in overflow will have a hole drilled into the bottom of the tank with a bulkhead installed so a drain pipe can be plumbed from it to the sump. If you have a glass aquarium and can't drill it then you will need a overflow box. A overflow box is a hang on box that utilizes a constant siphon off of the top of the display tank. I have a cpr overflow box on my 75g tank and I am very happy with it. I also use an aqua lifter pump to ensure that siphon isn't lost causing the tank to overflow.
Sizing your overflow, you will determine this by the total water volume in your system. I use a 800 gph overflow on my system which is approx 100 gallons total. I use an 800 gph return pump as well. I also have a ball valve installed in the drain pipe to help me regulate the flow between the overflow and the return pump.
There are a few factors in deciding the sump size. It all comes down to what are you going to try and fit in there. :wink:
The first thing to go into a sump is a protein skimmer. A protein skimmer is a device that utilizes air and water to remove solids "detritus" from the water column. The skimmer injects air into the water creating bubbles making a foamy froth. These bubbles bond with the solids and upon rising they take the solids into a collection cup.
When selecting a skimmer I recommend taking the skimmer that the manufacturer recommends and doubling it. So if you have a 100g system then you should have a skimmer for a 200g system. Skimmer manufacturers tend to over rate the skimmers. There are three types of protein skimmers: 1. hang on, witch isn't a very good skimmer. 2. In sump this skimmer sits inside of the sump, 3. Recirculating, is a skimmer that is out of the sump and uses a pump to supply it or you can place a T in your drain line from the overflow and gravity feed it.
Of the 3 I suggest the recirculating skimmer, they tend to be cheaper and there are a lot of options out there. 8)
Next you will need a space for filters. "IE" canister filters, Phosban reactors, calcium reactors, etc. Most of these items are hang on or external and require a feeder pump to supply them. This pump is what sits in the sump. I take the size needed for a skimmer and double it for these filters. You can never have too much space for these, so if you don't fill the space at first you probably will in the future. I use a canister filter for holding loose filter media such as carbon. A Phosban reactor is used for removing phosphate from the water via the use of loose media. Water is ran through a Phosban reactor very slowly, quick movement pummels the media causing it to disintegrate. A calcium reactor is used to replenish calcium levels in the display tank. Most corals and invertebrates need calcium to grow.
Next to go in is the heaters, yes I said heaters. :shock: I highly recommend using two heaters, one to be used all the time and one to be used as a backup for when the first heater fails. Most tanks that have heater failure loose a lot of the livestock before the reef keeper knows that the heater has failed. Heaters are small and can be fitted around the other equipment so it isn't crucial to plan for space for them. When selecting a heater the manufacturers recommendation is pretty accurate so I always go with what they say.
Last you will need space at the opposite side of the sump from the skimmer for the return pump. Return pumps come in many various sizes. So pretty much you will need to decide on what gph you wish to run and this will determine the space needed for the pump. I recommend asking questions about any pumps that you use in your system. Pumps create heat, use alot of electricity, and make noise. So to sum it up you want to look for the coolest running, most energy efficient, and quietest you can find.
Refugium
A refugium can allow you to do two separate things that sometimes can't be done in a display tank.
The first is have a safe haven for macro algae to grow. Macro algae is a biological alternative for removing phosphates. What is macro algae? Simply put it is seaweed. A seaweed may belong to one of several groups of multicellular algae: the red algae, green algae, and brown algae. As these three groups are not thought to have a common multicellular ancestor, the seaweeds are a paraphyletic group. In addition, some tuft-forming bluegreen algae (Cyanobacteria) are sometimes considered as seaweeds.
The second is to have a safe place for your amphipods and copepods to inhabit and multiply. You want these in your system mainly to feed the fish. Here is some links to help you get to know more about them.
Amphipods
Copepods
In a refugium you will need a light and very slow moving water. I have mineral mud in the bottom of mine as well. As for types of macro algae's to use Chaetomorpha or Caluerpa are the most commonly used. Although caution should be used when adding Caluerpa, it is illegal to have in some states and it can go sexual and migrate into the display tank.
Now here is where it gets even better, you can combine the use of a sump and a refugium into one tank saving space. One great thing about adding these to the system is that you increase your water volume and in doing so making it easier to hold your water parameters stable.
One major factor to consider when doing either of these setups is that when you do them you take into consideration weather the sump or refugium tank is big enough to handle the amount of water that will siphon out of the tank when the power is lost. If set up right the amount of water siphoned say for a 75g tank should only be about 5 gallons. Your overflow box set height is what determines this amount of water.OK and here is a quick video of my setup. LOL pardon the awesome video graphy. I also forgot to mention you can place problematic fish in there as well. LOL this is my clowns hangout right now. He was naughty and is in time out. :rofl:
video link
