Aiptasia as a Pest - and HOW to get rid of it

[paulgriffin971]

Well here's my tank. It's a red sea 250. I don't think any of you have the problem as bad as I do, so if someone has the cure for aptasia, people like me are prepared to make you a trillion-aire. With the caviet we get to sue you 10-times over if it doesn't work. The fact is, EVERY coral, fish, etc you buy has aptasia and majano. Anyone who tells you otherwise is lying. They are the one thing that will take over your tank before anything else--only takes about 3 weeks to 2 months before you're ready to give up. As for anyone telling you that ANTYHING works for aptasia or majano, jsut walk away politely and then go tell everyone else they're full of it. Here's the fact--NOTHING WORKS! It's a so called "problem" that is making money for snake oil salesman.

Here's what I've tried, just to prove a point. The "magic cures" have cost me as much as the tank itself, so I have first hand experience as to what doesn't work:
1) Filefish--does absolutely nothing except swim vertically and its' fins are pretty cool.
2) Peppermint shrimp--5 different batches over the past year. They do absolutely NOTHING other than cost around $15 for each shrimp. Then after they walk around the tank, they get into a one-rock situation and sit there rocking side to side. If you ever want to try nudibranches, then you're screwed--peppermint shrimp eat them.
3) Aptasia-X Yep, the Red Sea brand. It also does absolutely NOTHING except cause the old aptasia to release spores. Those spores then get into the rest of your tank.
4) Burghia Nudibranch--Tried $200 worth, got 12. Never did anything and have been in the tank for over 2 months.
5) Copperband--Don't work either. About the only thing I'll say is at least they have a cool nose.....
6) Six-line wrasse--Swim around the rocks and dodge the foxface and other tangs in your tank.
7) Removing ALL live rock and using a pastry torch to burn away everything on the rock--even the algae. Worked for a week, then everything was back even worse than before.
8) Lemon juice--Kind of works for a week, but it changes PH/ALK so fast you'll be reaching for your soda ash.
9) Kalwasser--I saw this on BRS TV and thought about it for a minute. It's basically the same thing as Aptasia-X. It changes your alkalinity, and then clouds your water while flipping your PH.
10) Clipping the bigger ones with tweezers--they come back even worse than before.
11) Joe's Juice---IT"S JUST FANCY LEMON JUICE!!

So, yeah, been there and done that. If anything new that comes out DOES work, I'd probably be the one who would try it out. Nothing else on the list for me to try. I'm at the point of just let nature take it's course. Eventually the aptasia will balance out the rest of the corals and they can sting themselves into submission.

Only the fittest will survive, and if the $5000 worth of corals win over the free aptasia problem I've inherited, so be it.

 

[tehmadreefer]

Well considering berghia ONLY eat aiptasia and it takes them several months for them to rid it, you haven’t waited long enough unless you killed them with poor water params or maybe they were eaten, though being eaten is highly unusual.

 

[SHNICI]

Well considering berghia ONLY eat aiptasia and it takes them several months for them to rid it, you haven’t waited long enough unless you killed them with poor water params or maybe they were eaten, though being eaten is highly unusual.

I do use Berghia several times, they do the job for me and friends of mine even and the tank is full with Aips. .... 2 times it took longer..., but the Aips was constantly disturbed and spreading more. The Berghias jus do the job even then.

 

[AQD-Seneye]

Reef Delete is a New Way to Sterilize Aiptasia and Other Pests | Reef Builders | The Reef and Saltwater Aquarium Blog

Reef Delete is a creative new approach for the eradication of aquarium pests and parasites which doesn’t use any chemicals or injection techniques to get the job done. Unlike consumable solutions of…

reefbuilders.com

available through R2R sponsors such as premiums and saltwater aquarium.

Reef Delete is the ultimate easy-to-use chemical free solution to rid your aquarium of all kinds of pests. Beat nature, naturally!
• Destroys Aiptasia, Mojano, Algae, Cyano, Flatworms, Invasive soft corals e.g Xenia and other similar pests
• Launched by ITC Reefculture – a brand of Seneye. Designed and manufactured in the UK at Seneye HQ.
• Pat. Pending
• Video https://player.vimeo.com/video/625410372?h=4d262a6f23

DOES NOT FUNCTION OUT OF WATER.

Reef Delete uses patented technologies coupled with a custom handmade ultra-focused, UV-C LED to efficiently destroy the DNA inside aquarium pests.

Our unique, proprietary wavelength destroys the DNA within a target organisms cells causing the cell function to stop and ultimately the pest shuts down and naturally decays without return. All that’s needed is a single long / multiple short daily exposures to cause devastating damage to the target organism.

This is achieved without using any chemicals or causing accidental damage to other aquarium inhabitants. Unlike chemical treatments, you cannot overdose Reef Delete on a target specimen. The more exposure given, the faster the organism will break down – and you can do it to as many as you like without fear of causing damage to your water chemistry! Get trigger happy!

Furthermore, if any similarities were to be drawn with lasers.. it acts in a completely different way to a ‘burning’ laser and is inherently safer due to no reflection and in-tank use. UV-C ensures the pest breaks down thanks to DNA damage which causes cataclysmic internal cell damage rather than burn off/cut off by the laser which can be easily repaired whereas the DNA damage cannot. See more below on maximising efficiency. The other huge plus is being able to use it inside the aquarium to ensures great angles of attack vs the limited “safe” angles via laser too!
The Reef Delete uses extremely high-quality custom-made ultra narrow beam optics on its LED including a silica quartz outer lens – all UV-C grade for ultimate transmission. This has all been built within a dive-proof quality CNC Aluminium enclosure and is rated IP68. The special optics are what helps Reef Delete punch the UV-C deep into the target organism.

To make Reef Delete safe to use, we built-in safety features to protect accidental activation outside of the aquarium, protecting the user and accidental activation by users who shouldn’t get their hands on it, such as our kids! Reef Delete cannot be activated out of water and shuts down if removed from being under way if the power button is held down.

Reef Delete works on all pests inc. Aiptasia, Mojano, invasive Xenia, Zoanthids, Cyanobacteria, Algaes, Flatworms etc to name a few and any other soft tissued organisms that can be annoying in the reef tank – not to mention bacteria and it’s ability to sterilise any surface in the aquarium! We look forward to the community providing us with examples of what they’ve creatively been able to cure and ‘delete’ from their tanks! We anticipate BJD too, but haven’t as yet been able to test this in laboratory conditions but is an exciting prospect.

We want users to use Reef Delete as the ultimate touch up pen, to get rid of a pest, coral disease or to cleanse an area of nuisance algae or bacteria. Prep new frag plugs, clean up coral bases.. It’s a tool for life.

WARNING: Reef Delete is a powerful Class 3 UV-C light source. UV-C is harmful to human and animal eyes and skin. Users must always follow the instructions and use the provided UV400 goggles. That said, UV-C Cannot penetrate through glass or acrylic well/at all and we include a UV-C Test card which has a special printed section that only glows under UV-C light so you can ensure that no UVC is escaping through your tank as well as verifying it works.. as we cannot see UV-C light!

Getting the best out of your Reef Delete:
How to achieve full photoinactivation and avoid photorecovery. ADDITONAL INFO
UV-C Photoinactivation is the amount of UV-C radiation required to achieve a sufficient dosage to ensure that the target organism cannot recover from the damage caused and thus all biological activity is destroyed. In insufficiently damaged organisms and cells, photorecovery can occur in certain species. Special enzymes exist called Photolyase, which are themselves activated by visible light and can repair DNA sufficiently to allow the organism to recover. Humans no longer possess Photolyase enzymes but many bacteria, fungi, plants, invertebrates and some animals do. That said, we simply don’t know what reef species have this ability or not OR whether it can repair damage from UV-C as this isn’t naturally present in our atmosphere (bar under the hole in the ozone layer!) – but we found it worthwhile to make a point just in case. Typically, we are talking UV-A and UV-B.

The UV-C light range is from 100-280nm – Reef Delete uses a propriety wavelength closer to the germicidal efficiency peak than any other commercially available UV steriliser on the market. Our proprietary binned wavelength has specifically tested to ensure maximum and efficient photoinactivation in aquarium pests.
The difference in effective dose rate between species varies hugely, mostly depending on the complexity and size of the organism. For example, some species of bacteria and virus are the most easily inactivated whilst algae, cysts, moulds, viruses can require a higher dose rate and so on with multicellular organisms and animals requiring the most. Protozoans, often referred to as single celled animals can require up to 100x dose of some simple bacteria yet are still single celled. Reef Delete is more than capable of providing an effective dose, especially when coupled with a repeat treatment regime.

Ensuring the correct dose rate of UV-c depends on 4 factors. The wavelength of UV-c used, the output strength of the UV-c source the distance from the UV-c source and the length of time it is exposed for. Reef Delete uses a well-tested and proprietary wavelength and output – the rest is user defined.
Much light how light photons spread away from a light bulb, the beam is always brightest closest to the source, culminating in the greatest concentration of light photons. As visible light is a form of radiation the same as UV-c, the same physics apply. The closer to the Quartz Lens of the Reef Delete to the target, the higher dose rate will be achieved in a shorter amount of time. These are two are the critical user controllable factors in effective application of UV-C.

As most of the target organisms are multicellular, to provide sufficient damage to cause photoinactivation multiple doses over several days may be required. Part way along this natural decay will often occur and leave the organism open to bacterial attack/breakdown which can exacerbate the demise of the target which can be a secondary cause of death for the organism without need for additional exposures. Longer and multiple exposures provide the best chances for photoinactivation and no two species will be the same. The beauty is – you cannot overdose with Reef Delete so get trigger happy!

To avoid any effects of photolyase repair if it will happen in your target species, we recommend using Reef Delete just before lights out.

To aid natural breakdown and consumption of decaying matter after use of Reef Delete we recommend the use of the product Fritz Zyme 460 for saltwater and Fritz Zyme 360 in freshwater. Please read the manufacturer’s instructions.
Required exposure length in time and number of days/times this exposure is given will vary due to the size of the pest, its ability to photorecover and its biological condition before being exposed. Remember the more exposure the better – Damage may not be evident for a few days in some species, but they will go!

Feel free to DM me for any other questions for the North American Reefers.

 

[jambi]

I think that's one of the most popular and common pest in our reef system, and I don't saw any in the hobby to say "I never - ever got Aiptasia in my reef system"
I want everyone of you who got problem with or just found his best solution to share it here.
Like the TITLE say, can we collect many different opinions on how to take it off/remove/kill/etc..
I'll write down some of the methods I know, I'm been using, and I hear about. Everyone, if have some suggestions, descriptions and advices be free to tell us, if possible to be more detailed Please, because here I see every day at least 2 are asking about. Photos included will be a bit better for the people or the newcomers who don't have a clue and how to deal with.
LIke a question: Do you know good enough DIP solution which can take it off as a hitchhiker - pest from the LR/Corral or even Chaetomorpha Macroalgae ( many of you are getting it with that buying it from LFS or getting from friends infested with Aiptasia).
-> Aiptasia - Wiki <- / -> Aiptasia - basic <- / -> Aiptasia - thousands of photos <-

So I'll start with what I know it's working and I'm been testing:

-> Aiptasia X <- - probably the most popular in the Hobby: Shake the bottle -> fill the syringe with the liquid -> stop your pumps in the tank (not everyone do it, but is better to be done), stop return/s, wave makers etc.. -> go close with the syringe (with needle on it) slowly to the Aiptasia -> try to make the Aiptasia to digest it (usually everything what touch it, the Aiptasia is trying to digest) -> once the aiptasia touch with the tentacles over the needle push a bit in it mouth and dispose some liquid quickly in to can come over the aiptasia as well -> leave for another minute or 2 the water steady, and you can run your pumps and wave makers. Pros: depending how good you done the job, over 90% of the cases the aiptasia will be gone completely from the spot. Cons: if you fill with too much liquid from the syringe you can dama another inhabitants near/under it if it start fall off over them.

->F Aiptasia <- Stir well and shake prior to use. Turn off all power heads during application. Using included syringe, apply directly to aiptasia anemone. As you start to cover them, they will retract. Just cover them completely! Leave power heads off for 30 minutes or until product hardens. You can remove the hardened shell a few days later. After several hours, F-Aiptasia will create a 'shell' over the anemone and trap it with the caustic product inside the shell.
. Pros: Features by BRS Reef Safe; No injection required; No need to siphon anemone out of tank after application; Lasting results; No effects on water chemistry


-> Joes Juice Aiptasia/Majano killer<- -> Turn off powerheads before feeding. -> Shake well before use. -> Fill supplied syringe and tip with 'patent pending' mixture. -> For Aiptasia: Gently place syringe over their mouth, feed anemone a small amount of mixture. -> For Majano: Spread a small amount of mixture at their center. -> Both anemones will consume product and perish.
JoesJuice is an easy to use Reef safe product that will kill Aiptasia and Majano anemones. Simply feed the problem anemone a small amount of JoesJuice and watch the results. Within minutes, the anemone has disappeared and for good!




-> Peppermint shrimp <- - it will find and eat them it can keep the tank w/o Aiptasia, and don't need extra care (once the aiptasia is gone it can eat and another meaty food). Pros: It's good on eating aiptasia and is coming as a part of your CUC. Cons: many people write that them peppermint shrimp never touch the aiptasia they have. Like I know, many report they got/purchase fake shrimp as Peppermint, do your research about.
Have a look at this post to get how it look like, as there are few looking similar and only one can do the job for you: Peppermint shrimp - Lysmata wurdemanni


-> Filefish <- - Almost all the same as the Peppermint shrimp. I just know not all of them eat or touch aiptasia (the one which you are sure eat it, please show your exemplar Please) Cons: some can pick on your zoanthids

->Berghia (Aeolid nudibranch) <- - What to say about, this is one of the animals which is the Aiptasia predator, it's feeding on Aiptasia, it's eating only that, it will take all of it wherever it is in your system., the best way is ti have 2 or 3, but if you have small system 10-30G tank and 1 will be enough (depending how many Aiptasia are in your tank/sump. Pros: it will take complete care of the Aiptasia. Cons: once the Aiptasia get consumed and if don't have more, the Berghia will starve to death.
Berghia eating Aiptasia - ->VIDEO<- ,

(Autor: @Sleeping Giant )

-> Super Glue <- can work, you have to seal it completely and some area around it to be sure it can't escape and to spread or to swim to another position. Pros: can be very effective if you done it properly and very simple method as the Super glue dry almost immediately and is harmless for the inhabitants (if used adequately). Cons: if you don't seal it properly, and/or the LR is very porous the aiptasia can eskape and to spread/move to another place. Can be very hard to reach it with the bottle under the water. If you use liquid, not gel Super glue it can easy harden the hole and you can't squeeze under the water. Isn't good to use it if the Aiptasia is in close contact to corals (you can damage them).

-> pulling it out <- - you can do that easy if the Aiptasia is on flat surface, on a Chaetomorpha Macroalgae, glass etc but I'll suggest not to do it with bare hands, will sting you (if your skin is more sensitive) and try to catch it completely w/o leaving any single piece of it, because it can regrow almost always if left there some of it.

-> fresh, tap, RO/DI water <- depending on what you got aiptasia you can use that one as well. Very good for washing LR, Chaetomorpha Macroalgae (for 5 minutes will be completely enough w/o damaging the algae), after just dip in some aged tank water and you can put it in your tank/sump back again. Pros: Aiptasia can't survive after FW DIP, only if it's in deep crevice hole and the water isn't reaching the entire body Cons: you will kill most of the life in the LR, can damage corals if you dip them that way.

-> lemon juice/vinegar <- - the same as the Aiptasia X, but this one you can use it over the aiptasia and is good to squeeze some on the base if you can reach, to melt completely the body. Pros: almost always work as charm Cons: be very careful how much you use in to your system, it can change you PH, KH and some other chemical processes if you use too much.

Have on mind:
- always when you do use any chemicals: not to put in your system too much, because they can bring some negatives on the chemical processes. If you are using animals like peppermint shrimp, or filefish: try to compare the one is it the particular which do the job, because of the many reports not all eat Aiptasia in real, and some are sold as them, but aren't really the same SP
- If you can to pull out the LR or the frag out of the tank, to treat it in a box filled with tank water, will be the best way, because that way you are avoiding filling your tank with chemicals. At the end of the process just rinse it with some tank water, and you will be good to put it back on plase


if some of my writing isn't true, or you have additional advise or something to include, please write it down in your comments, all the info can be helpful for the rest in the hobby

Also I'll ask #reefsqaud members to check it, and if there is something and have different opinion which is good to be sticked on the top post, please do it, I'll check regularly and will take care to include it

File Fish? which exact one? I have tried Aiptasia X and it only works partially. I have tried Peppermint Shrimp--no results at all except the shrimps go away quickly. I have tried Berghia, twice in fact from Capt Jeff......no luck at all. Expensive and worthless so far. They just won't go away. They come back even in my gravel-very small. It's like a cancer.

I have a 14 bio cube with only 1 clown and a garbage blenny. Only a Hammer Coral and a Duncan at this point. Everytime I add Aiptasia X my corals get really stressed. It's like the cure is worse than the disease...Pics show before and after.....

Any ideas at all?

 

[jambi]

Well here's my tank. It's a red sea 250. I don't think any of you have the problem as bad as I do, so if someone has the cure for aptasia, people like me are prepared to make you a trillion-aire. With the caviet we get to sue you 10-times over if it doesn't work. The fact is, EVERY coral, fish, etc you buy has aptasia and majano. Anyone who tells you otherwise is lying. They are the one thing that will take over your tank before anything else--only takes about 3 weeks to 2 months before you're ready to give up. As for anyone telling you that ANTYHING works for aptasia or majano, jsut walk away politely and then go tell everyone else they're full of it. Here's the fact--NOTHING WORKS! It's a so called "problem" that is making money for snake oil salesman.

Here's what I've tried, just to prove a point. The "magic cures" have cost me as much as the tank itself, so I have first hand experience as to what doesn't work:
1) Filefish--does absolutely nothing except swim vertically and its' fins are pretty cool.
2) Peppermint shrimp--5 different batches over the past year. They do absolutely NOTHING other than cost around $15 for each shrimp. Then after they walk around the tank, they get into a one-rock situation and sit there rocking side to side. If you ever want to try nudibranches, then you're screwed--peppermint shrimp eat them.
3) Aptasia-X Yep, the Red Sea brand. It also does absolutely NOTHING except cause the old aptasia to release spores. Those spores then get into the rest of your tank.
4) Burghia Nudibranch--Tried $200 worth, got 12. Never did anything and have been in the tank for over 2 months.
5) Copperband--Don't work either. About the only thing I'll say is at least they have a cool nose.....
6) Six-line wrasse--Swim around the rocks and dodge the foxface and other tangs in your tank.
7) Removing ALL live rock and using a pastry torch to burn away everything on the rock--even the algae. Worked for a week, then everything was back even worse than before.
8) Lemon juice--Kind of works for a week, but it changes PH/ALK so fast you'll be reaching for your soda ash.
9) Kalwasser--I saw this on BRS TV and thought about it for a minute. It's basically the same thing as Aptasia-X. It changes your alkalinity, and then clouds your water while flipping your PH.
10) Clipping the bigger ones with tweezers--they come back even worse than before.
11) Joe's Juice---IT"S JUST FANCY LEMON JUICE!!

So, yeah, been there and done that. If anything new that comes out DOES work, I'd probably be the one who would try it out. Nothing else on the list for me to try. I'm at the point of just let nature take it's course. Eventually the aptasia will balance out the rest of the corals and they can sting themselves into submission.

Only the fittest will survive, and if the $5000 worth of corals win over the free aptasia problem I've inherited, so be it.

Pretty much the same story with me here-except I was going to try a file fish. Thanks so much for your post! I am of the same mind.....whatever happen...happens. Arg!

 

[Mattyreefs]

Pretty much the same story with me here-except I was going to try a file fish. Thanks so much for your post! I am of the same mind.....whatever happen...happens. Arg!

I was starting to get a really bad outbreak of aiptasia. Really think it began over the summer when I was away for two weeks and had the auto feeder going too often. I used f aiptasia pretty successfully earlier on but there are places where it just doesn't work and the numbers were getting out of control. I bought a few peppermint shrimp from both algae barn and reefcleaners and didn't have much luck so I bought 7 berghia nudis from saltyunderground (25 gallon tank).

I wasn't sure if they were working at first or even survived but I started watching at night after lights out Ave there were all out going to town on aiptasia. Two weeks later I couldn't find a single aiptasia. I'm actually kind of sad that I dont see the nudis at night anymore.

 

[PeterEde]

Just watched a video and this looks to work a treat on those you can get too
Majano Wand

 

[Calm Blue Ocean]

I just spotted a few in a back chamber of my AIO. Plan is to just drain the chamber and give it a rinse in RODI. Enough to kill 'em?

 

[Dodge Ram]

Had a 75 gallon completely addled with them and decided to just tear the thing down. Never using bottled bacteria starter again it left the rock open for the infestation. Tried kalke paste and xtasia stuff...waste of time. Gimmicks

Rocks looked like a mountain range of pine trees.

Smart cure was move fish, drain tank, throw the rest out into the sun to bake.

 

[4tanks]

Copperband got rid mine

 

[Dodge Ram]

From my experience, the tank does not have the proper bacteria balance to inhibit the growth and spread of this pest.
Iv'e dropped live aptasia into an established tank that contained caribbean live rock from dr fosters from the early 2000's, the real imported stuff no longer available, and it did not take root. A tank I started two years ago with the bottled bacteria was infested through some live plants from la and the blank marco type rocks and aptasia grew out of bounds.
There is more to this reef chemistry than we know.

Had to start over.

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

I get them b4 they get me! Check rock and plugs first, and get them when there is only one with a kalk slurry in tank if you have to, but don't let them go for x amount of time. Waiting for animals to do the work is a risk I dont take one little piece breaks off it starts a new one or they take so long to find it they have time to split.

easiest way is to kalk them when you first see it, if they make it to the plumbing, tank tear down! No joke . I hate them and had them bad once, never again! If I can help it and stay vigilant and pro active. They are easy enough to keep out of your tank.

 

[LeftyReefer]

I actually had very good luck with peppermint shrimp.

I added two shrimp and the very first night they cleared my tank of all aiptasia.
little buggers worked crazy fast and I never saw another aiptasia in the tank while they were in there.

I think the problem is that there are about 6 different types of shrimp that are commonly sold as peppermint shrimp and only 1 of them actually eats aiptasia.... if you happen to get one of the other 5 kinds, you will be disappointed.

I've had luck buying my peppermint shrimp from vendors that guarantee their peppermint shrimp to eat aiptasia.... they apparently know they have the right kind. If your peppermint shrimp aren't eating your aiptasia, i'd be willing to bet they aren't the right kind. Try a different LFS or vendor.

 

[ReefRondo]

I’ve had multiple filefish and every one has demolished my aiptasia population to eventually win the battle. Would they reappear if my filefish perished? Absolutely. I now have a reef delete as I have them in my frag system and can’t risk a filefish for obvious reasons.

 

[las]

I’ve had multiple filefish and every one has demolished my aiptasia population to eventually win the battle. Would they reappear if my filefish perished? Absolutely. I now have a reef delete as I have them in my frag system and can’t risk a filefish for obvious reasons.

How does reef delete work for you?

 

[ReefRondo]

Only been using it for a short time so far. Will report back.

 

[Scott Halseuy]

I think that's one of the most popular and common pest in our reef system, and I don't saw any in the hobby to say "I never - ever got Aiptasia in my reef system"
I want everyone of you who got problem with or just found his best solution to share it here.
Like the TITLE say, can we collect many different opinions on how to take it off/remove/kill/etc..
I'll write down some of the methods I know, I'm been using, and I hear about. Everyone, if have some suggestions, descriptions and advices be free to tell us, if possible to be more detailed Please, because here I see every day at least 2 are asking about. Photos included will be a bit better for the people or the newcomers who don't have a clue and how to deal with.
LIke a question: Do you know good enough DIP solution which can take it off as a hitchhiker - pest from the LR/Corral or even Chaetomorpha Macroalgae ( many of you are getting it with that buying it from LFS or getting from friends infested with Aiptasia).
-> Aiptasia - Wiki <- / -> Aiptasia - basic <- / -> Aiptasia - thousands of photos <-

So I'll start with what I know it's working and I'm been testing:

-> Aiptasia X <- - probably the most popular in the Hobby: Shake the bottle -> fill the syringe with the liquid -> stop your pumps in the tank (not everyone do it, but is better to be done), stop return/s, wave makers etc.. -> go close with the syringe (with needle on it) slowly to the Aiptasia -> try to make the Aiptasia to digest it (usually everything what touch it, the Aiptasia is trying to digest) -> once the aiptasia touch with the tentacles over the needle push a bit in it mouth and dispose some liquid quickly in to can come over the aiptasia as well -> leave for another minute or 2 the water steady, and you can run your pumps and wave makers. Pros: depending how good you done the job, over 90% of the cases the aiptasia will be gone completely from the spot. Cons: if you fill with too much liquid from the syringe you can dama another inhabitants near/under it if it start fall off over them.

->F Aiptasia <- Stir well and shake prior to use. Turn off all power heads during application. Using included syringe, apply directly to aiptasia anemone. As you start to cover them, they will retract. Just cover them completely! Leave power heads off for 30 minutes or until product hardens. You can remove the hardened shell a few days later. After several hours, F-Aiptasia will create a 'shell' over the anemone and trap it with the caustic product inside the shell.
. Pros: Features by BRS Reef Safe; No injection required; No need to siphon anemone out of tank after application; Lasting results; No effects on water chemistry


-> Joes Juice Aiptasia/Majano killer<- -> Turn off powerheads before feeding. -> Shake well before use. -> Fill supplied syringe and tip with 'patent pending' mixture. -> For Aiptasia: Gently place syringe over their mouth, feed anemone a small amount of mixture. -> For Majano: Spread a small amount of mixture at their center. -> Both anemones will consume product and perish.
JoesJuice is an easy to use Reef safe product that will kill Aiptasia and Majano anemones. Simply feed the problem anemone a small amount of JoesJuice and watch the results. Within minutes, the anemone has disappeared and for good!




-> Peppermint shrimp <- - it will find and eat them it can keep the tank w/o Aiptasia, and don't need extra care (once the aiptasia is gone it can eat and another meaty food). Pros: It's good on eating aiptasia and is coming as a part of your CUC. Cons: many people write that them peppermint shrimp never touch the aiptasia they have. Like I know, many report they got/purchase fake shrimp as Peppermint, do your research about.
Have a look at this post to get how it look like, as there are few looking similar and only one can do the job for you: Peppermint shrimp - Lysmata wurdemanni


-> Filefish <- - Almost all the same as the Peppermint shrimp. I just know not all of them eat or touch aiptasia (the one which you are sure eat it, please show your exemplar Please) Cons: some can pick on your zoanthids

->Berghia (Aeolid nudibranch) <- - What to say about, this is one of the animals which is the Aiptasia predator, it's feeding on Aiptasia, it's eating only that, it will take all of it wherever it is in your system., the best way is ti have 2 or 3, but if you have small system 10-30G tank and 1 will be enough (depending how many Aiptasia are in your tank/sump. Pros: it will take complete care of the Aiptasia. Cons: once the Aiptasia get consumed and if don't have more, the Berghia will starve to death.
Berghia eating Aiptasia - ->VIDEO<- ,

(Autor: @Sleeping Giant )

-> Super Glue <- can work, you have to seal it completely and some area around it to be sure it can't escape and to spread or to swim to another position. Pros: can be very effective if you done it properly and very simple method as the Super glue dry almost immediately and is harmless for the inhabitants (if used adequately). Cons: if you don't seal it properly, and/or the LR is very porous the aiptasia can eskape and to spread/move to another place. Can be very hard to reach it with the bottle under the water. If you use liquid, not gel Super glue it can easy harden the hole and you can't squeeze under the water. Isn't good to use it if the Aiptasia is in close contact to corals (you can damage them).

-> pulling it out <- - you can do that easy if the Aiptasia is on flat surface, on a Chaetomorpha Macroalgae, glass etc but I'll suggest not to do it with bare hands, will sting you (if your skin is more sensitive) and try to catch it completely w/o leaving any single piece of it, because it can regrow almost always if left there some of it.

-> fresh, tap, RO/DI water <- depending on what you got aiptasia you can use that one as well. Very good for washing LR, Chaetomorpha Macroalgae (for 5 minutes will be completely enough w/o damaging the algae), after just dip in some aged tank water and you can put it in your tank/sump back again. Pros: Aiptasia can't survive after FW DIP, only if it's in deep crevice hole and the water isn't reaching the entire body Cons: you will kill most of the life in the LR, can damage corals if you dip them that way.

-> lemon juice/vinegar <- - the same as the Aiptasia X, but this one you can use it over the aiptasia and is good to squeeze some on the base if you can reach, to melt completely the body. Pros: almost always work as charm Cons: be very careful how much you use in to your system, it can change you PH, KH and some other chemical processes if you use too much.

Have on mind:
- always when you do use any chemicals: not to put in your system too much, because they can bring some negatives on the chemical processes. If you are using animals like peppermint shrimp, or filefish: try to compare the one is it the particular which do the job, because of the many reports not all eat Aiptasia in real, and some are sold as them, but aren't really the same SP
- If you can to pull out the LR or the frag out of the tank, to treat it in a box filled with tank water, will be the best way, because that way you are avoiding filling your tank with chemicals. At the end of the process just rinse it with some tank water, and you will be good to put it back on plase


if some of my writing isn't true, or you have additional advise or something to include, please write it down in your comments, all the info can be helpful for the rest in the hobby

Also I'll ask #reefsqaud members to check it, and if there is something and have different opinion which is good to be sticked on the top post, please do it, I'll check regularly and will take care to include it

The best way to rid your aquarium of Aiptasia is to get several peppermint shrimp.

 

[ReeferSamster]

I say we took off and nuke the entire site from orbit....Its the only way to be sure.

 

[HaveFishWillTravel]

I think that's one of the most popular and common pest in our reef system, and I don't saw any in the hobby to say "I never - ever got Aiptasia in my reef system"
I want everyone of you who got problem with or just found his best solution to share it here.
Like the TITLE say, can we collect many different opinions on how to take it off/remove/kill/etc..
I'll write down some of the methods I know, I'm been using, and I hear about. Everyone, if have some suggestions, descriptions and advices be free to tell us, if possible to be more detailed Please, because here I see every day at least 2 are asking about. Photos included will be a bit better for the people or the newcomers who don't have a clue and how to deal with.
LIke a question: Do you know good enough DIP solution which can take it off as a hitchhiker - pest from the LR/Corral or even Chaetomorpha Macroalgae ( many of you are getting it with that buying it from LFS or getting from friends infested with Aiptasia).
-> Aiptasia - Wiki <- / -> Aiptasia - basic <- / -> Aiptasia - thousands of photos <-

So I'll start with what I know it's working and I'm been testing:

-> Aiptasia X <- - probably the most popular in the Hobby: Shake the bottle -> fill the syringe with the liquid -> stop your pumps in the tank (not everyone do it, but is better to be done), stop return/s, wave makers etc.. -> go close with the syringe (with needle on it) slowly to the Aiptasia -> try to make the Aiptasia to digest it (usually everything what touch it, the Aiptasia is trying to digest) -> once the aiptasia touch with the tentacles over the needle push a bit in it mouth and dispose some liquid quickly in to can come over the aiptasia as well -> leave for another minute or 2 the water steady, and you can run your pumps and wave makers. Pros: depending how good you done the job, over 90% of the cases the aiptasia will be gone completely from the spot. Cons: if you fill with too much liquid from the syringe you can dama another inhabitants near/under it if it start fall off over them.

->F Aiptasia <- Stir well and shake prior to use. Turn off all power heads during application. Using included syringe, apply directly to aiptasia anemone. As you start to cover them, they will retract. Just cover them completely! Leave power heads off for 30 minutes or until product hardens. You can remove the hardened shell a few days later. After several hours, F-Aiptasia will create a 'shell' over the anemone and trap it with the caustic product inside the shell.
. Pros: Features by BRS Reef Safe; No injection required; No need to siphon anemone out of tank after application; Lasting results; No effects on water chemistry


-> Joes Juice Aiptasia/Majano killer<- -> Turn off powerheads before feeding. -> Shake well before use. -> Fill supplied syringe and tip with 'patent pending' mixture. -> For Aiptasia: Gently place syringe over their mouth, feed anemone a small amount of mixture. -> For Majano: Spread a small amount of mixture at their center. -> Both anemones will consume product and perish.
JoesJuice is an easy to use Reef safe product that will kill Aiptasia and Majano anemones. Simply feed the problem anemone a small amount of JoesJuice and watch the results. Within minutes, the anemone has disappeared and for good!




-> Peppermint shrimp <- - it will find and eat them it can keep the tank w/o Aiptasia, and don't need extra care (once the aiptasia is gone it can eat and another meaty food). Pros: It's good on eating aiptasia and is coming as a part of your CUC. Cons: many people write that them peppermint shrimp never touch the aiptasia they have. Like I know, many report they got/purchase fake shrimp as Peppermint, do your research about.
Have a look at this post to get how it look like, as there are few looking similar and only one can do the job for you: Peppermint shrimp - Lysmata wurdemanni


-> Filefish <- - Almost all the same as the Peppermint shrimp. I just know not all of them eat or touch aiptasia (the one which you are sure eat it, please show your exemplar Please) Cons: some can pick on your zoanthids

->Berghia (Aeolid nudibranch) <- - What to say about, this is one of the animals which is the Aiptasia predator, it's feeding on Aiptasia, it's eating only that, it will take all of it wherever it is in your system., the best way is ti have 2 or 3, but if you have small system 10-30G tank and 1 will be enough (depending how many Aiptasia are in your tank/sump. Pros: it will take complete care of the Aiptasia. Cons: once the Aiptasia get consumed and if don't have more, the Berghia will starve to death.
Berghia eating Aiptasia - ->VIDEO<- ,

(Autor: @Sleeping Giant )

-> Super Glue <- can work, you have to seal it completely and some area around it to be sure it can't escape and to spread or to swim to another position. Pros: can be very effective if you done it properly and very simple method as the Super glue dry almost immediately and is harmless for the inhabitants (if used adequately). Cons: if you don't seal it properly, and/or the LR is very porous the aiptasia can eskape and to spread/move to another place. Can be very hard to reach it with the bottle under the water. If you use liquid, not gel Super glue it can easy harden the hole and you can't squeeze under the water. Isn't good to use it if the Aiptasia is in close contact to corals (you can damage them).

-> pulling it out <- - you can do that easy if the Aiptasia is on flat surface, on a Chaetomorpha Macroalgae, glass etc but I'll suggest not to do it with bare hands, will sting you (if your skin is more sensitive) and try to catch it completely w/o leaving any single piece of it, because it can regrow almost always if left there some of it.

-> fresh, tap, RO/DI water <- depending on what you got aiptasia you can use that one as well. Very good for washing LR, Chaetomorpha Macroalgae (for 5 minutes will be completely enough w/o damaging the algae), after just dip in some aged tank water and you can put it in your tank/sump back again. Pros: Aiptasia can't survive after FW DIP, only if it's in deep crevice hole and the water isn't reaching the entire body Cons: you will kill most of the life in the LR, can damage corals if you dip them that way.

-> lemon juice/vinegar <- - the same as the Aiptasia X, but this one you can use it over the aiptasia and is good to squeeze some on the base if you can reach, to melt completely the body. Pros: almost always work as charm Cons: be very careful how much you use in to your system, it can change you PH, KH and some other chemical processes if you use too much.

Have on mind:
- always when you do use any chemicals: not to put in your system too much, because they can bring some negatives on the chemical processes. If you are using animals like peppermint shrimp, or filefish: try to compare the one is it the particular which do the job, because of the many reports not all eat Aiptasia in real, and some are sold as them, but aren't really the same SP
- If you can to pull out the LR or the frag out of the tank, to treat it in a box filled with tank water, will be the best way, because that way you are avoiding filling your tank with chemicals. At the end of the process just rinse it with some tank water, and you will be good to put it back on plase


if some of my writing isn't true, or you have additional advise or something to include, please write it down in your comments, all the info can be helpful for the rest in the hobby

Also I'll ask #reefsqaud members to check it, and if there is something and have different opinion which is good to be sticked on the top post, please do it, I'll check regularly and will take care to include it

Aiptasia - X procedure is the way to go. Works for me…
Sometimes, you have to hit them a few times. Try to get them when they are small. Here’s a hint, look at your tank at night….