Ammonia in Cycling Tank

[pal98111]

I have a 10-gallon tank with sand and dry rock that I have been cycling for 5 weeks. I used Microbacter 7 weekly per the directions and used a small dead shrimp to feed the bacteria. I removed the shrimp three days ago. My nitrite is zero. I have been doing 2 gallon water changes each week. I have a HOB filter with carbon, bio pellets, and floss. I change the floss weekly. There is no livestock in the tank. However, my ammonia is still hovering about .03 prior to water changes and about .02 after water changes. I don't understand why I have amonnia without livestock. Is the tank still catching with the excess waste from the dead shrimp? I want to add a hermit crab but am concerned about the ammonia. Diatoms have started growing as well. It's my understanding I can add pods to address that. Thoughts?

 

[mann1139]

How are you testing ammonia? Strip/kit/etc.

What is your nitrate reading?

Don't change the floss so often. Good algae can accumulate there.

In a 10g, the pods won't last. I have run several nano tanks of that scale, and my go-to CUC is 2 algae-eating snails, one hermit, and sometimes one sand-sifting snail. Anything more doesn't have enough to eat.

 

[brandon429]

Your cycle is done because:

5 weeks- the ammonia line on a cycle chart is ten days to the drop

- diatoms= visual benthic cue rule from updated cycling science: diatoms or any other growth that came after setup always comes after basic cycle control is established

Old cycling science rules vs new: that's what any stocked reef on this site would run on those test kits you're using

New cycling science knows these cheaper ammonia test kits can't accurately indicate trace levels, reefs don't run at zero ammonia so that reading is confirmational vs alarming.

Anyone who sells you bottle bac uses old cycling science: it creates a false fear that leads to double, triple or quadruple bacteria purchases.


- this isn't the type of cycle where ammonia rises and falls like when dosing liquid ammonia. It's a slow leak process, number of days is the deciding factor not the test readouts. You're past the required wait time twice over, long enough to grow visual proof.

Any feed- only cycle is done by day 30 max, you're beyond that not even factoring the time boost from mb7

Your problem is using old cycling science as the guide, your cycle is done. Be sure and read this thread so you don't prematurely infect your whole system with fish disease:

Has anyone done coral/inverts only and no fish at first?

Fish seem to be the main cause of disruption in a display tank, given the current circumstances in the hobby with pests (ich, velvet, parasites, etc.). I have been in this hobby for 18 years, and the amount of pests that are showing up lately is much more (could also be the fact that we have...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Propane]

What test kit are you using to get that ammonia reading.

 

[pal98111]

Your cycle is done because:

5 weeks- the ammonia line on a cycle chart is ten days to the drop

- diatoms= visual benthic cue rule from updated cycling science: diatoms or any other growth that came after setup always comes after basic cycle control is established

Old cycling science rules vs new: that's what any stocked reef on this site would run on those test kits you're using

New cycling science knows these cheaper ammonia test kits can't accurately indicate trace levels, reefs don't run at zero ammonia so that reading is confirmational vs alarming.

Anyone who sells you bottle bac uses old cycling science: it creates a false fear that leads to double, triple or quadruple bacteria purchases.


- this isn't the type of cycle where ammonia rises and falls like when dosing liquid ammonia. It's a slow leak process, number of days is the deciding factor not the test readouts. You're past the required wait time twice over, long enough to grow visual proof.

Any feed- only cycle is done by day 30 max, you're beyond that not even factoring the time boost from mb7

Your problem is using old cycling science as the guide, your cycle is done. Be sure and read this thread so you don't prematurely infect your whole system with fish disease:

Has anyone done coral/inverts only and no fish at first?

Fish seem to be the main cause of disruption in a display tank, given the current circumstances in the hobby with pests (ich, velvet, parasites, etc.). I have been in this hobby for 18 years, and the amount of pests that are showing up lately is much more (could also be the fact that we have...

www.reef2reef.com

Thank you so much. I think I’ll get a hermit now. I don’t have any algae yet for snails to eat. I imagine I get some after I put the hermit in though.

 

[brandon429]

your tank is ready yep

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

IME the shrimp method is the slowest method of all, that thing takes a long time to rot away.

But I agree with Brandon, the tank is cycled. You did not list your nitrate, I would suggest to test that, if its higher than 30-40 ish I would do a water change before adding livestock. Thats just me,

 

[pal98111]

How are you testing ammonia? Strip/kit/etc.

What is your nitrate reading?

Don't change the floss so often. Good algae can accumulate there.

In a 10g, the pods won't last. I have run several nano tanks of that scale, and my go-to CUC is 2 algae-eating snails, one hermit, and sometimes one sand-sifting snail. Anything more doesn't have enough to eat.

I’m using a Compact Lab Essentials test kit from Tropic Marin. My nitrate Was 5.2 (Hanna). Thank you.

 

[pal98111]

What test kit are you using to get that ammonia reading.

I’m using a Compact Lab Essentials test kit from Tropic Marin.

 

[pal98111]

IME the shrimp method is the slowest method of all, that thing takes a long time to rot away.

But I agree with Brandon, the tank is cycled. You did not list your nitrate, I would suggest to test that, if its higher than 30-40 ish I would do a water change before adding livestock. Thats just me,

Thank you. My nitrate was 5.2.