Have you considered selling the extra boards you have? im sure a few DIY'ers would be able to make use of them.
I already sold most of them (still have one extra), and even next month I will order a new batch for my friends here.
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Have you considered selling the extra boards you have? im sure a few DIY'ers would be able to make use of them.
Another Question Dacianb, How are you reflowing the chips? Are you able to get away with a simple hot air setup or do you need a hot plate or oven to make sure these get soldered up right?
I was thinking about the puck apprach early on but gave up since the Chinese models are so cheap. I'd still like to try one of these days though.
For those of you in the US, look to Sparkfun and LadyAda for tutorials on PCBs. I've been making boards for about 5 years now, got into SMD work about 3 years ago. Its easy once you get the hang of it. High Power LEDs are tricky though.
Are these really PCBs or are they al plates with the circuits painted onto one side, like the stars high power emitters are frequently sold on?
I have been thinking about adding some other spectrum leds to my AI Sol Blue units, this beats holding the heatsync over the oven lolI use a hot plate (preheat plate called in industry). Basically I manually apply solder paste on the pads, then put the board on the hot plate when is OFF, put all the leds on (have to pay attention to polarity, but position is not critical - normal leds are easy to do, but Luxeon UV are incredible tiny and is a pain in the a** to place them) then turn the plate ON. When solder paste melts leds are magically self-aligning to the pads. Then turn the plate OFF and wait before moving the board. Only trick is to use not too much paste, otherwise can do shorts under the led.
- on this proto of my board you can see a led OFF, but still the circuit works - so for sure there is a short under the led. but I will not re-cook the board and just leave it as it is.
Those look amazing.
I wish I was skilled enough in that area to build my own like that. Carpentry I can do, basic electronics yes, this not so much lol
Will the covers be Aluminum? If so I would go with an anodized finish
Full pigment (no translucence) black in most cases would minimize the look of the lights, letting everyone focus on the DT. White would have a nice contrast with out being too flashy.
Personally I would go with a metallic look. Gold or Blue would have be very sharp, eye catching, and add a high tech feel. For something a bit more sophisticated a light gold that has an almost delicate look to it, some refer to that finish as champagne.
Since I do not know the rest of your setup, your taste, or the room it is in it is a hard one to call. Regardless it looks nice!
as first-my respect on this ! :thumb:
I have a few questions:
have you measured how much this lamp gives Lux
which is the dimension of the LED board
where you bought LEDs lamps (link) and which they label for purchase
how many wats has one LED 1w or 3w
where are you located dimer and and which one
thx
Have you considered the bluefish mini led controller? It has 6 channels of PWM, with enough voltage to drive 3 LDD / channel, integrated wifi, location simulation including moon phase, ios and android apps for control and configuration. The manufacturer page is having some certificate issues atm but, RapidLED has some details on their web page.