Black box LED SPS tank? Where is the success?

[luke33]

Last tank on led's





















Final pic of the tenius and palmers blue mille before i took down the tank but grown off these led's

 

[SB Reef Lights]

Check out @SB Reef Lights they are ramped up black box LEDs. I plan to give them a try over SPS soon. I'm now running them over LPS and softies.

Thanks for the tag Gary!

Any idea what size I would need over a Jbj 45 gal?

The JBJ45 has the same foot print as my JBJ20g shallow reef. I run a single 16" using the built in mounting legs. Coverage is decent. On your deeper tank it will be better. I use it at frag swaps all the time and for grow out.

 

[SB Reef Lights]

I would agree with you Gary, but its tough to pass up a $160 32" mars fixture and then spend $15 on other led's you can add on to get a similar spectrum as the SB's.

Tinkering is fun! I encourage you to try that route if you are handy with an iron. The only thing I found challenging was getting Diodes. Most diodes on ebay or amazon that say Bridgelux are actually generic and not name brand. "Bridgelux" is often referred to as the style, not the brand. ie, all 3w - 2 pole - not on board are called "Bridgelux". Then they are normally only sold in packs of 10, so to get 6 new colors is $90. If you are doing a bunch of lights it is still pretty cheap. If you can find a vendor that will mix and match single diodes that would be great. If you have any questions about color choices or how to swap diodes, feel free to send me a message.

That's actually how I got started. I switched from MH/T5 to the original full spectrum MarsAqua about 3 years ago. I was happy with the electric bill and no re-bulbing, however SPS was not growing as fast and certainly not as vibrant. I started swapping diodes and each time got a little better growth and color. Then I upgraded to a thicker heat sink with all Epistar diodes instead of generic "Bridgelux", name brand RoHS drivers. Once I had a final design that could easily keep up with or exceed my buddies with the expensive high end LEDs, I launched SB Reef lights. Added built in mounting legs, CE safety certification, and a 2 year warranty.

Most folks that swap in our retro fit boards into MarsAqua have to turn down intensity around 20% to compensate for the additional PUR. Which leads to better results with longer diode life. PAR is not what you need to look at, I can make a light out of all Green and Yellow with incredible PAR, however it will not grow a thing. Not to mention most PAR meters drop off in sensitivity sharply below 470nm, where many LED lights are heaviest.

 

[PaReeferJ]

Tinkering is fun! I encourage you to try that route if you are handy with an iron. The only thing I found challenging was getting Diodes. Most diodes on ebay or amazon that say Bridgelux are actually generic and not name brand. "Bridgelux" is often referred to as the style, not the brand. ie, all 3w - 2 pole - not on board are called "Bridgelux". Then they are normally only sold in packs of 10, so to get 6 new colors is $90. If you are doing a bunch of lights it is still pretty cheap. If you can find a vendor that will mix and match single diodes that would be great. If you have any questions about color choices or how to swap diodes, feel free to send me a message.

That's actually how I got started. I switched from MH/T5 to the original full spectrum MarsAqua about 3 years ago. I was happy with the electric bill and no re-bulbing, however SPS was not growing as fast and certainly not as vibrant. I started swapping diodes and each time got a little better growth and color. Then I upgraded to a thicker heat sink with all Epistar diodes instead of generic "Bridgelux", name brand RoHS drivers. Once I had a final design that could easily keep up with or exceed my buddies with the expensive high end LEDs, I launched SB Reef lights. Added built in mounting legs, CE safety certification, and a 2 year warranty.

Most folks that swap in our retro fit boards into MarsAqua have to turn down intensity around 20% to compensate for the additional PUR. Which leads to better results with longer diode life. PAR is not what you need to look at, I can make a light out of all Green and Yellow with incredible PAR, however it will not grow a thing. Not to mention most PAR meters drop off in sensitivity sharply below 470nm, where many LED lights are heaviest.

+1
I just switched my mars Aqua out with the retro fit kit, took less that 20mins. Mars Aqua I was running at 80% blue and 50% white. With the SB reef lights I am running around 50% blue and 30% white but still tinkering.

 

[SB Reef Lights]

Gratuitous FTS...

 

[Reef Pets]

Gratuitous FTS...

I gotta mention that the last picture is of Reef Pets Acropora.

 

[happyhourhero]

Truly incredible system you run mike.

 

[sawdonkey]

Ocean Revive.....all from frags.

 

[DRoth335]

All grown from frags under reefbreeder value fixtures. Also grew out a monti cap that we sold that barely fit in a 5 gallon bucket (you can see it starting to regrow much to my chagrin)

 

[PaReeferJ]

Gratuitous FTS...

Wooooooooooooooow!!

 

[luke33]

I gotta mention that the last picture is of Reef Pets Acropora.

You bragging about those weak looking acros

 

[luke33]

Ocean Revive.....all from frags.

Beautiful tank! You still have the trigger?

 

[luke33]

Tinkering is fun! I encourage you to try that route if you are handy with an iron. The only thing I found challenging was getting Diodes. Most diodes on ebay or amazon that say Bridgelux are actually generic and not name brand. "Bridgelux" is often referred to as the style, not the brand. ie, all 3w - 2 pole - not on board are called "Bridgelux". Then they are normally only sold in packs of 10, so to get 6 new colors is $90. If you are doing a bunch of lights it is still pretty cheap. If you can find a vendor that will mix and match single diodes that would be great. If you have any questions about color choices or how to swap diodes, feel free to send me a message.

That's actually how I got started. I switched from MH/T5 to the original full spectrum MarsAqua about 3 years ago. I was happy with the electric bill and no re-bulbing, however SPS was not growing as fast and certainly not as vibrant. I started swapping diodes and each time got a little better growth and color. Then I upgraded to a thicker heat sink with all Epistar diodes instead of generic "Bridgelux", name brand RoHS drivers. Once I had a final design that could easily keep up with or exceed my buddies with the expensive high end LEDs, I launched SB Reef lights. Added built in mounting legs, CE safety certification, and a 2 year warranty.

Most folks that swap in our retro fit boards into MarsAqua have to turn down intensity around 20% to compensate for the additional PUR. Which leads to better results with longer diode life. PAR is not what you need to look at, I can make a light out of all Green and Yellow with incredible PAR, however it will not grow a thing. Not to mention most PAR meters drop off in sensitivity sharply below 470nm, where many LED lights are heaviest.

I'll tinker on this guy and then possibly change my display but it'll be tough to pry my t5's from me

I feel like the tinkering left this hobby somewhat years ago so I'm starting to really enjoy that aspect again, except led vs skimmers right now. Tank is looking sick btw, nice job!

 

[sawdonkey]

Beautiful tank! You still have the trigger?

Thanks, and yes. I have two triggers. I've had the Picasso for about 13 years and the Niger for about six.

 

[luke33]

Thanks, and yes. I have two triggers. I've had the Picasso for about 13 years and the Niger for about six.

I love hearing that about fish, especially triggers in a reef as they are my favorite. Great job!

 

[Reef Pets]

You bragging about those weak looking acros

Yea. I need counseling...

 

[Djbrandriff150]

Which black boxes are you using? Tank looks great

Thanks always learning and trying something new to make it better. Dunno what brand. I got them in a group buy on Facebook thru Mike Herman. Fully programmable. Running 4 only need 3 I think but I got an extra incase. Never know

 

[PaReeferJ]

Thanks always learning and trying something new to make it better. Dunno what brand. I got them in a group buy on Facebook thru Mike Herman. Fully programmable. Running 4 only need 3 I think but I got an extra incase. Never know

I think those are the very first SB reef lights. Before what they are today.

 

[Mauricio M. Jr.]

A few years ago I used one of the first black led box (led bridgelux)with 2 T5 Guiesman Super Actinic. I used it for more than 3 years with good results. My reef started with fragments. I have always strictly maintained basic maintenance and used vodka as a source of carbon and amino acids when needed. I am from Brazil and here are very expensive equipment and products for aquarium reef.

Images is from LG G2 without effects.