Check Valve Basement Sump

[HJ99]

Plumbing question on having a check valve in the return. Keep in mind this is a basement sump setup and about 8' of height maybe 12' plumbing. I understand the need to allow for drainback and that isn't an issue as the sump is plenty big. I was concerned with a lot of splashing in the DT when the pump restarts. I read somewhere that is why one guy used one. I'll also have a tee off for my refugium section so probably get air in the line anyway. I'm thinking just leave it out but wondering how big an issue the surge/splashing is. Thoughts ?

 

[Urtoo]

I have a basement sump too.
Install a check valve flapper. It’s not the splashing, it all of the water that comes back down without it. And if your return in the tank is far below the waterline, it will siphon all of that too.
I added one when I made the sump down there, but I did test it for if the valve fails, made sure that the basement sump could handle all of the siphoned water from my return, in case I am away from home.
The valve allows the waterline to stay above the return in my tank, so, 0 splashing upstairs when I power on the return after maintenance.
It’s so nice to do a 25-59g water change in minutes and no need to worry about upstairs floors getting wet now.

 

[ca1ore]

I run a basement sump .... not a check valve to be found (and hasn’t been for over a decade). Easy enough to design the return to minimize drain down. I would not worry about ‘splashing’. When mine restarts a whole bunch of air is driven into the display but it dissipates pretty quickly and makes no mess. The other problem with a check valve on basement return is that the valve closing with all that head pressure it bangs pretty hard.

 

[HJ99]

I run a basement sump .... not a check valve to be found (and hasn’t been for over a decade). Easy enough to design the return to minimize drain down. I would not worry about ‘splashing’. When mine restarts a whole bunch of air is driven into the display but it dissipates pretty quickly and makes no mess. The other problem with a check valve on basement return is that the valve closing with all that head pressure it bangs pretty hard.

When you say minimize drain down are you talking about keeping the outlets near the surface and siphon prevention ? As for the plumbing, it seems it has to go from point A to B as short as possible.

 

[ca1ore]

I jet my return straight down behind the rocks ..... on a 450 it only drains down about 1/2” of display volume (a little less than 7 gallons).

 

[Augus7us]

As the other user said, it prevents the line full of water from crashing back into your sump when the pump is shut off. Look at your sump pump in your basement, it has a check valve for the same reason. You don't need one but it has advantages.

 

[AlexG]

I don't run check valves for returns with long distant runs. Unfortunately check valves are not reliable due to marine buildup. Even with regular maintenance they can still fail. A sump should always have the capacity for backflow and it can be minimized by drilling a hold in the return line just above the water line which will act as a siphon break as soon as the return pump is shutdown. As for the bubbles and splashing I would not be concerned as it only last a minute or less and won't hurt anything unless its somehow spraying water out of the tank on startup which even then could be adjusted.

 

[HJ99]

I appreciate the responses. Seems to be like many things with pros & cons. My sump is a 125g tank so I'm not really concerned with backflow if it fails. I already have one I bought so I'm thinking sticking it in with unions. That way If it ends up being a problem, I can easily eliminate it with a piece of pipe.

 

[RocketEngineer]

And if something gets pulled into the return plumbing and jams in the valve, you have a different issue. I feel it is too much risk for no gain. JMO

 

[MnFish1]

Plumbing question on having a check valve in the return. Keep in mind this is a basement sump setup and about 8' of height maybe 12' plumbing. I understand the need to allow for drainback and that isn't an issue as the sump is plenty big. I was concerned with a lot of splashing in the DT when the pump restarts. I read somewhere that is why one guy used one. I'll also have a tee off for my refugium section so probably get air in the line anyway. I'm thinking just leave it out but wondering how big an issue the surge/splashing is. Thoughts ?

I dont understand how a 'check valve' would work this way. I.e. a check valve prevents water from going one way. Obviously, one wouldn't need a check valve going towards the tank. I am under the impression (as others have said) - that the check valve just prevents excessive siphoning of water. If that level gets 'too low' in the tank - I can see where there could be some splashing. I would just make sure your return is not too low in the water. Second - the other thing I've read multiple times is that check valves tend to fail

 

[HJ99]

I ended up leaving it out. Doesn't seem to be an issue on startup. Actually more splashing in the sump when all the air gets pushed down than there is in the DT but it stays in the sump. Thanks for the replies.

 

[JMetaxas]

The Wye check valves are very good, just need an occasional cleaning, but it's easy to do.

 

[RocketEngineer]

Yup, until you go on vacation, something decides to crawl into it, preventing it from sealing. Why take the risk, just avoid them and design the system to work without them.

 

[Cory]

You can do a reverse check valve. Meleves reef has a video. Very reliable imo.