Dirt Diggler's Reef-pi Build
- Thread starter DirtDiggler2823
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OP
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DirtDiggler2823
If I can't break it, it doesn't exist
Right now I'm waiting for the new temperature probe to come in, so I'm working on the optical sensor for the ATO system. There doesn't seem to be any signal coming from it.
crusso1993
7500 Club Member
I see you are starting right! 
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DirtDiggler2823
If I can't break it, it doesn't exist
There is another thread about the boards, but essentially im testing this board for someone. I'm not sure he's making boards right now.
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DirtDiggler2823
If I can't break it, it doesn't exist
Hahaha, yeah man. Gotta get my go-juice going for these tasks.I see you are starting right!
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DirtDiggler2823
If I can't break it, it doesn't exist
Right now I can't get the optical sensor working at all. I spliced in a 6 foot length of cat5, but I will need to pull it back apart and redo it. I'm hoping it's just not too long of a cable. @@theatrus, @@ranjib , is a 7 foot optical sensor cable too long?
Diamond1
Valuable Member
I would think that is not too long.
Did you test the sensor before you spliced into it?
Are you getting the right readings from the breakout board or the main board? I believe you should be getting a 5v reading from the hot wire out of the main board to the breakout board and from the breakout board to the sensor.
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DirtDiggler2823
If I can't break it, it doesn't exist
I'm getting the proper reading from the board, but I couldn't find my multimeter when I was building the cable. The signal from the sensor isn't kicking any discernible voltage though.
Diamond1
Valuable Member
I would start by double checking that the sensor is wired correctly. If your getting the proper voltage out of the boards and the inlet is set to the right gpio the fault could be either the wiring or the sensor.
Not sure what the Blue Acro board is using for a GPIO for the ATO but you may want to make sure that is correct too.
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DirtDiggler2823
If I can't break it, it doesn't exist
I've tried two inputs. I think it might be the cable.
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DirtDiggler2823
If I can't break it, it doesn't exist
They've been helping a bit already. Once I check things with the cable, we'll have a lot more information to troubleshoot with.
Diamond1
Valuable Member
Lets double check with the cable. Using the right ground and 5V will help, but I feel your sensor just isn’t working
I ordered an exact one to test with but it’s not fast delivery.
Have you tried going to mechanical floats?
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DirtDiggler2823
If I can't break it, it doesn't exist
I've been considering using the float switch as a backup, but I'm trying to limit the amount of moving parts that can fail. I'll open the cable back up and test continuity. I have length to play with so cutting some cable out isn't the end of the world.Lets double check with the cable. Using the right ground and 5V will help, but I feel your sensor just isn’t working
I ordered an exact one to test with but it’s not fast delivery.
Have you tried going to mechanical floats?
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DirtDiggler2823
If I can't break it, it doesn't exist
Totally! I'm having to do troubleshooting I haven't done since I left the service. I'd kill for a fluke 77 to be honest.
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DirtDiggler2823
If I can't break it, it doesn't exist
Lets double check with the cable. Using the right ground and 5V will help, but I feel your sensor just isn’t working
I ordered an exact one to test with but it’s not fast delivery.
Have you tried going to mechanical floats?
So I checked continuity from the furthest splice, to the end of the cable, and everything is good. Next I'll incorporate the board and smaller cable, but I think either there is a bug in the board, or this sensor is bad to begin with. I wish it emitted some sort of visible light for me to look for.
OP
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DirtDiggler2823
If I can't break it, it doesn't exist
Lets double check with the cable. Using the right ground and 5V will help, but I feel your sensor just isn’t working
I ordered an exact one to test with but it’s not fast delivery.
Have you tried going to mechanical floats?
OK, so testing through the entire circuit this is what I get: White is SIG, Yellow and Red are GND, and the 5V signal is nowhere to be found. I tested continuity through that short piece of cable last night, so I know it works through the connector on the pico board, to the end of the cable going into the small board that came with the sensor. I'm not sure this will work with that small board in place, and since I know which cables are carrying what signal, I'm going to bypass and go straight into the board.
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