Frogspawn Exposed skeleton!

Afkomjorgen

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Hello! We noticed that the skeleton is exposed on one side of our frogspawn!
93FAC0B1-DBBA-415D-8EB6-B6BDC8AF97A8.jpeg

78A742AB-DBF9-469E-A5E2-A9B270868494.jpeg

FF98093E-F4B8-40F8-9023-7F9EC751B709.jpeg

We got this frogspawn about 2 weeks ago. It has been looking good. Coming out every day & coloring up. We noticed the exposed skeleton today when the wave maker was on. It looks like it’s being ripped off it’s skeleton ):
I didn’t think the waves were that strong, our other euphyllia are doing fine ( more established though). Is this coral acclimating or should I move it ASAP? Thank you! Third image to show how it is in the current.
 

Nick Steele

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It does look like it’s being hit hard from the powerhead imo.

It’s not a goner at all and is still kicking just move to lesser flow and it should bounce back.
 

vetteguy53081

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Hello! We noticed that the skeleton is exposed on one side of our frogspawn!
93FAC0B1-DBBA-415D-8EB6-B6BDC8AF97A8.jpeg

78A742AB-DBF9-469E-A5E2-A9B270868494.jpeg

FF98093E-F4B8-40F8-9023-7F9EC751B709.jpeg

We got this frogspawn about 2 weeks ago. It has been looking good. Coming out every day & coloring up. We noticed the exposed skeleton today when the wave maker was on. It looks like it’s being ripped off it’s skeleton ):
I didn’t think the waves were that strong, our other euphyllia are doing fine ( more established though). Is this coral acclimating or should I move it ASAP? Thank you! Third image to show how it is in the current.
Looks like you are applying too much water flow to that area causing bailout. Euphyllia in general require moderate light and water flow. These coral are photosynthetic and therefore respond to UV strength and increase/reduction in lighting. One of the more important requirements for frogspawn is Placement. It is an overlooked element that contributes to the overall acclimation and sustainability of your frogspawn. Some hobbyists simply choose to, Put it where is looks best but to reduce the amount of strain on your specimen, you should ideally place it in an area of your tank similar to the area in which you found it when you purchased it or where there is moderate light.
Another consideration to account for during the placement of your coral is the amount of light it will be receiving. This decision should never be random; should never be haphazard. Although capable of doing quite well in a relatively large range of lighting levels, ideally, your Frogspawn Corals do best when provided a moderate amount of lighting, with many hobbyists finding success with an added bit, or partial, shading. Euphyllia (theyre a member of this group) do not enjoy direct high lighting. Keep in mind that the amount of lighting and the degree of water flow work hand-in-hand in sustaining healthy coral life and growth. Although technically capable of survival, frogspawn DO NOT appreciate high or even moderately high flow. They will open much bigger in gentle flow, and will be able to grow into tendrils that you see swaying within your habitat.
I cannot overemphasize the incredible importance of both lighting as well as placement. Never, ever haphazardly place your corals, select your lighting, or randomly pair different specimens or species within a tank, and just hope for the best. Remember, like any coral, Frogspawn Coral requires a very specific amount of lighting, and in this case, it’s not a whole lot. Unlike many other corals, Frogspawn Corals don’t require a whole lot of lighting. They are also 100 PAR, but even levels as low as 50 PAR will work well for this beautiful species.
To ensure successful acclimation, growth, and just overall, general health, your Frogspawn Corals prefer a moderate to strong water flow within your habitat. Interestingly enough, you can control the growth. If you want to look for a more contract compacted look, a higher flow will help you to achieve that. If you want a more extended, sway appearance from your Frogspawn, a low to moderate flow. Aesthetically, what originally drew hobbyists to this coral was its ability to serenely sway in the currents.

Frogspawn are not the most aggressive eaters. Broadcast feeding is typically the easiest, most effective approach. Additionally, if there is too great a flow, or if there are fish in your habitat that are aggressively harassing them, they’re just not going to eat. Even if they are able to successfully get the food into their mouths, they often quickly spit it back out--quick enough where they may not even be digesting any of the food. By trying to directly feed, you are much more likely to develop an algae problem from uneaten food accumulating in your tank than you are to find success in direct feeding.
Follow these simple steps and let it take its' course. Theyre easy enough to meet the care needed and yes, they do shrink in the evening. One test- Increase your lighting a little once they shrink, and within the hour, you will see them puff up again.
 
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Afkomjorgen

Afkomjorgen

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Looks like the flow is too high on it. Euphilia prefer lower to medium flow, so that the flesh does not get damaged.

It does look like it’s being hit hard from the powerhead imo.

It’s not a goner at all and is still kicking just move to lesser flow and it should bounce back.

Looks like you are applying too much water flow to that area causing bailout. Euphyllia in general require moderate light and water flow. These coral are photosynthetic and therefore respond to UV strength and increase/reduction in lighting. One of the more important requirements for frogspawn is Placement. It is an overlooked element that contributes to the overall acclimation and sustainability of your frogspawn. Some hobbyists simply choose to, Put it where is looks best but to reduce the amount of strain on your specimen, you should ideally place it in an area of your tank similar to the area in which you found it when you purchased it or where there is moderate light.
Another consideration to account for during the placement of your coral is the amount of light it will be receiving. This decision should never be random; should never be haphazard. Although capable of doing quite well in a relatively large range of lighting levels, ideally, your Frogspawn Corals do best when provided a moderate amount of lighting, with many hobbyists finding success with an added bit, or partial, shading. Euphyllia (theyre a member of this group) do not enjoy direct high lighting. Keep in mind that the amount of lighting and the degree of water flow work hand-in-hand in sustaining healthy coral life and growth. Although technically capable of survival, frogspawn DO NOT appreciate high or even moderately high flow. They will open much bigger in gentle flow, and will be able to grow into tendrils that you see swaying within your habitat.
I cannot overemphasize the incredible importance of both lighting as well as placement. Never, ever haphazardly place your corals, select your lighting, or randomly pair different specimens or species within a tank, and just hope for the best. Remember, like any coral, Frogspawn Coral requires a very specific amount of lighting, and in this case, it’s not a whole lot. Unlike many other corals, Frogspawn Corals don’t require a whole lot of lighting. They are also 100 PAR, but even levels as low as 50 PAR will work well for this beautiful species.
To ensure successful acclimation, growth, and just overall, general health, your Frogspawn Corals prefer a moderate to strong water flow within your habitat. Interestingly enough, you can control the growth. If you want to look for a more contract compacted look, a higher flow will help you to achieve that. If you want a more extended, sway appearance from your Frogspawn, a low to moderate flow. Aesthetically, what originally drew hobbyists to this coral was its ability to serenely sway in the currents.

Frogspawn are not the most aggressive eaters. Broadcast feeding is typically the easiest, most effective approach. Additionally, if there is too great a flow, or if there are fish in your habitat that are aggressively harassing them, they’re just not going to eat. Even if they are able to successfully get the food into their mouths, they often quickly spit it back out--quick enough where they may not even be digesting any of the food. By trying to directly feed, you are much more likely to develop an algae problem from uneaten food accumulating in your tank than you are to find success in direct feeding.
Follow these simple steps and let it take its' course. Theyre easy enough to meet the care needed and yes, they do shrink in the evening. One test- Increase your lighting a little once they shrink, and within the hour, you will see them puff up again.
Thank you everyone! I’ll move it. I appreciate your time and quick answers.
 
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