My goodness you don't need any of that crap. Just feed your fish and do bi-weekly 10% water changes. Leave it alone....
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
A wall hammer would pass and infection along the skeleton and the decline would be pretty rapid and why wall hammers were considered more difficult for a long time or maybe still. The branching hammerSo l have three colonies of hammer corals all at the same ph and alk. One dies but the other two continues to prosper. The last three heads are fragged off the dying coral about a month ago and seems fine. Not sure how this is parameters since multiple other corals are doing fine.
Were these three branching colonies originating from the same colony or different? Were they added at the same time?So l have three colonies of hammer corals all at the same ph and alk. One dies but the other two continues to prosper. The last three heads are fragged off the dying coral about a month ago and seems fine. Not sure how this is parameters since multiple other corals are doing fine.
I apologize. Thank you. Good night and remember: “This above all, to thine own self be true.”You're welcome.
Tank has been up for 18 months. My Tank Thread
I have had this hammer for 1 year. It was thriving (first pic). The first of November last year, I had to pull off a tank move to accommodate new hard wood floor installation. It went well, but the Hammer was immediately visibly disturbed by all the noise and commotion (second pic). It bounced back a bit after the move (third pic), but now is completely retracted (fourth pic) and has been this way for weeks. There has not been any polyp bail out. Meanwhile, my Duncan and all my other corals and livestock are doing great. In the time since the tank move these are the things I have done to try and make the hammer happy.
1. removed GFO because my phosphates were always undetectable. After I took it out, I got some color on my API test kit, but never over 0.25. Phosphates are now back to 0, but I believe they are wrapped up in cyano from item #4. I intend to replace the GFO after maintenance today.
2. messed around with flow
3. daily adding 5 mls of AquaVitro 8.4 to increase pH and dKH, it works, but have to add daily. (I think I will continue using this)
4. started daily dosing of 5 mls of Red Sea AB+ to try and feed it, this just gave me cyano (I am going to stop using this)
5. I feed heavy because I have a ton of CUC with a mixture of frozen mysis, prime reef and selcon, plus a few mixed pellets of Formula One and Formula Two
Parameters have been steady and today before glass scraping, turkey basting rocks, water change and cyano removal are:
Temp 78
Nitrate 20
Phosphate 0
pH 8.0
dKH 8.7
Calcium 449
Salinity 1.025
Any thoughts are welcome.
Tank has been up for 18 months. My Tank Thread
I have had this hammer for 1 year. It was thriving (first pic). The first of November last year, I had to pull off a tank move to accommodate new hard wood floor installation. It went well, but the Hammer was immediately visibly disturbed by all the noise and commotion (second pic). It bounced back a bit after the move (third pic), but now is completely retracted (fourth pic) and has been this way for weeks. There has not been any polyp bail out. Meanwhile, my Duncan and all my other corals and livestock are doing great. In the time since the tank move these are the things I have done to try and make the hammer happy.
1. removed GFO because my phosphates were always undetectable. After I took it out, I got some color on my API test kit, but never over 0.25. Phosphates are now back to 0, but I believe they are wrapped up in cyano from item #4. I intend to replace the GFO after maintenance today.
2. messed around with flow
3. daily adding 5 mls of AquaVitro 8.4 to increase pH and dKH, it works, but have to add daily. (I think I will continue using this)
4. started daily dosing of 5 mls of Red Sea AB+ to try and feed it, this just gave me cyano (I am going to stop using this)
5. I feed heavy because I have a ton of CUC with a mixture of frozen mysis, prime reef and selcon, plus a few mixed pellets of Formula One and Formula Two
Parameters have been steady and today before glass scraping, turkey basting rocks, water change and cyano removal are:
Temp 78
Nitrate 20
Phosphate 0
pH 8.0
dKH 8.7
Calcium 449
Salinity 1.025
Any thoughts are welcome.
Best advice so far...My goodness you don't need any of that crap. Just feed your fish and do bi-weekly 10% water changes. Leave it alone....