Jimbo's CDA 250 Build

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Jimbo327

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My tank temperature have been climbing up past 81F lately, and it’s only going to get hotter next couple months. Found some used GHL fans, giving a nice spray paint (to match the wall color) before mounting over the tank.
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I think one of the big contributors to my phosphate problem is that I have a pretty dirty sand bed. It’s brown and full of detritus. I like to feed heavy, and I don’t want to stop that. The nassarius snails and sea cucumber cannot keep up. They need some help.

So I finally stirred up the 2 front corners of the tank, and added some DIY coral snow. I also removed all of the rocks from the sump to make it easier to clean. I’m planning to trade locally some of my small trochus snails for micro CUC’s like brittle stars and worms.

The new routine is to stir sand and coral snow every weekend. I don’t want to disturb too much at 1 time, so will do small sections.
 

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TangerineSpeedo

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I think one of the big contributors to my phosphate problem is that I have a pretty dirty sand bed. It’s brown and full of detritus. I like to feed heavy, and I don’t want to stop that. The nassarius snails and sea cucumber cannot keep up. They need some help.

So I finally stirred up the 2 front corners of the tank, and added some DIY coral snow. I also removed all of the rocks from the sump to make it easier to clean. I’m planning to trade locally some of my small trochus snails for micro CUC’s like brittle stars and worms.

The new routine is to stir sand and coral snow every weekend. I don’t want to disturb too much at 1 time, so will do small sections.
My bristles do a great job of keeping the sand bed white. I have a few problem places (like directly under the overflow). I need to get a trap for that tank. I need to cull a few and spread them out to my other tanks. I can get one or two when I feed but they are pretty quick. I made a sand stirrer on a stick, but I think I like a long turkey baster that I use because it throws it up in the water column. Corals love it also.
Also TA on the restaurant rec. I think its a winner.
 

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I think one of the big contributors to my phosphate problem is that I have a pretty dirty sand bed. It’s brown and full of detritus. I like to feed heavy, and I don’t want to stop that. The nassarius snails and sea cucumber cannot keep up. They need some help.

So I finally stirred up the 2 front corners of the tank, and added some DIY coral snow. I also removed all of the rocks from the sump to make it easier to clean. I’m planning to trade locally some of my small trochus snails for micro CUC’s like brittle stars and worms.

The new routine is to stir sand and coral snow every weekend. I don’t want to disturb too much at 1 time, so will do small sections.
Went to the office last night with a red flashlight to introduce some berghia. I have a lot more bristleworms than I thought. They are apparently putting in work.
 
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I picked up a few nice SPS frags from a local reefer today.

And he gave me a bag of chaeto from his sump. I was excited to pick off 30 bristle worms and 5-6 micro brittle stars from the chaeto. So I added those into my tank, and hopefully that's enough to seed my sand bed CUC. I know I’m missing this layer of CUC and more pods. (I didn’t put the chaeto into my sump because there were also lots of asterina stars and I don’t want them)

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Quick recap on my DIY top metal brace on my tank. I really liked the look of a top brace that somewhat hides the water line, and I don't have a canopy. But I saw on CDA website wanted $1900 for an exterior structural bottom brace. Since I don't need it to be structural as the tank is built with double euro-brace, I decided to make a non-structural DIY top metal brace version. Yes, it is just for the aesthetics that is made with aluminum angles...barely held together with aluminum brazing rods...and sprayed with some Rustoleum primer/paint. I don't really know how long it will hold up as I've never seen anyone do this DIY. I think all in, the DIY version cost about $100-150 in materials (got everything at Lowes and Harbor Freight) as I had most of the tools (miter saw and camping torch). The hardest part of this DIY is using the brazing rods (never used it before) and it is similar to solder. The $4 corner brackets from Harbor Freight is the key as you have to heat up the aluminum with a camping portable propane torch.

Pro-Tip #1: I left 1/4" gap all around inside perimeter so I can add in some rubber tape in between the tank and metal brace later.

Pro-Tip #2: Watch a bunch of youtube videos on how to braze aluminum. It is tricky and needs to be heated really hot to braze/solder to melt/flow. Gloves are required so you don't burn yourself.

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Still battling some STN on the base of some SPS frags.

No idea what this SPS is called. Got it from vendor and he forgot the name. But base is starting to bleach.
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This is a JF Fox Flame frag, but it looks all brown and lost the yellow tip color. Now I’m see base has started bleaching as well.
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Something funky going on. My other fluorescent SPS frags are doing great. But other frags nearby are STN. I might send in ICP to see if there are any contaminants.
 
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The downside of having so many baby Trochus snails is that they get into my gyre powerhead, wedges itself in the rotor and stop its from running. This happens 3-4 times per week, and I'm getting tired of fixing this issue.

I'm going to DIY a mesh guard, and prevent any more baby snails from getting into the gyre. Here is a thread with similar ideas that I want to try:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/maxspect-gyre-anemone-resistance-and-small-critter-guard.223217/

So I cut up a black mesh bag and made my first version to cover the gyre RW45. I'm using rubberband to see if snails can still get in there. I'll probably sew it with some fishing line if this works well.
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Phosphates are coming down. I've tested my phosphates for last few days, and it is holding steady at ~0.2-0.25 ppm.

The LC dosing is unbinding the phosphates from the rocks and sand. So I'm going to keep dosing my DIY LC solution. I've added a few safety shutoff checks to the APEX program to make it even safer to dose LC.

Additionally, the sand stirring...followed by DIY coral snow...will help get rid of some trapped gunk. Then I added some bristle worms and brittle stars to the CUC gang, and hoping it'll populate the sand bed.
 
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I see that my silica is going higher on my ICP tests, so I know it is going through my DI resin. I suspect I will need to use more anion resin because I'm exhausting my mixed bed DI with only 200 gallons water produced. Plus a local experienced reefer told me that the water district may increase chloramine during summer months.

So I'm going to make some additions to my RODI and water storage system.

First, I got a good deal on an used chloramine monster and dual DI housing from another local reefer. This chloramine monster is HUGE!

So the new RODI flow will be:
  1. Sediment (1 micron)
  2. BRS Chloramine monster
  3. BRS universal carbon (1 micron)
  4. BRS universal carbon (1 micron)
  5. RO
  6. Cation DI Resin
  7. Anion DI Resin
  8. Cation DI Resin
  9. Anion DI Resin
I also changed out my saltwater container in the outdoor shed, so I can flush and clean it easier. Previously, I had a pump inside the container, and I can see slimy bacteria growing on the tubing...now it is through the bottom of the container and pump sits under the container instead. (White is my freshwater. Blue is the new saltwater.). It’s a work in progress , so very messy.

Currently using Nyos sea salt based on my trusted LFS recommendation.
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Still seeing STN and bleaching from the base of SPS.

Did a total of 80 gallon water change last week.

And I started adding a spoonful of buffered Vitamin C to see if there are any improvements.

I’m running out of ideas to fix.

With my SPS suffering, it’s surprising that my LPS and softies are doing great. I went to the local coral show this weekend. I didn’t plan to buy anything, but got lucky and won a couple raffle prizes. So I picked up a GMK and Strat zoa.
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It's getting warmer, so I hooked up the chiller to help cool the tank. The AC and evaporative cooling may not be enough. The chiller is plumbed through the exterior wall and the tubing is insulated to minimize the heat transfer. It's ugly, but the best part is that no one can see it as it is outside...plus no noise or heat in the house.

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The chiller is an used Oceanic 1/4 HP that I picked many years ago, and have been sitting in my shed. It is a bit undersized, but I have my AC and fans running in the house...so should be okay.
 
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My LPS and softies are loving the tank. My sticks are still struggling. Lost my JF Fox Flame frag, ASD Doomsday frag, and a few others are starting to STN as well. Quite demotivating.

I fixed and checked almost everything that I can think of. ICP came back without any issues. I will switch to ATI ICP next time.

This tank is about 8 months old now. Maybe the tank is just not mature enough. I did exchange some of my baby Trochus snails with another reefer's micro brittle stars and sand. Hoping to add more diversity to my tank.

I'm trying my own crazy concoctions. I added a vial of Biodigest bacteria into a cup of tank water, then added nitrates and phosphates, vodka, a spoonful of calcium carbonate, and a scoop of AF mud. Let it sit for a day before pouring it into my tank.
 
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My LPS and softies are loving the tank. My sticks are still struggling. Lost my JF Fox Flame frag, ASD Doomsday frag, and a few others are starting to STN as well. Quite demotivating.

I fixed and checked almost everything that I can think of. ICP came back without any issues. I will switch to ATI ICP next time.

This tank is about 8 months old now. Maybe the tank is just not mature enough. I did exchange some of my baby Trochus snails with another reefer's micro brittle stars and sand. Hoping to add more diversity to my tank.

I'm trying my own crazy concoctions. I added a vial of Biodigest bacteria into a cup of tank water, then added nitrates and phosphates, vodka, and a spoonful of calcium carbonate. Let it sit for a day before pouring it into my tank.

I’d recommend Oceamo ICP MS. It tests for elements at much lower levels. Even Randy recommends Oceamo and it’s the go to ICP test for reef moonshiners.
 

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Thanks for letting me know. I'll take a look. I already have 2 ATI ICP test kits, so I'll have to use them up first.
I'd recommend do a little research to see if they offer the traces in ppb. I can't remember. Some of them they may only do ppm, which won't even show you deficit. Some elements are required in ppb, and if they show up in ppm then you're way over.

Take a look at my last oceamo MS attached

I have a similar tank I started around the same time as you. I seeded it with live sand and rock from TB. DNA tested in April and it's considered a mature tank. I'm growing Acro no problem. I am doing the moonshiners program but it's not technically required as most people think it's too involved. It's really not. But dosing traces from other companies can get a little tricky to keep everything in the green.

IMO regular ICP tests are useless. You need the ICP MS to really know what's going on. Think Triton is improving on there's. No sure. Once that's dialed in after 4+ months and your confident in keeping traces up, then using a cheaper ICP test is fine on occasion.

Just my 2cents

Hope this helps!
 

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Thanks for the attachment. It is very easy to read and I like how it is organized.

I have heard that using live sand and fresh live rock can really accelerate the maturation process. I did try to add some of the AF mud, and other reefer's sand.

I've not heard about a DNA test...I'm assuming it is the Aquabiomics. The microbiome or the tank DNA test?
 

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