Late Night Thinking: Dwarf Dwarf Seahorses Set up

[Ramses0314]

So in my endless researching looking for ways to turn a 40B into a tank viable for a mandarin (one of my fav fish) I stumbled into the finnex HOB refug. I tried one out and loved how fast the pod population exploded on it and bought two more. I realized I could only fit 2 on my back pannel where I keep the light holder... so I decided to used in one of the sides instead where it would get light from the main tank. Since the two would be hob refugiums with light cycles alternative to the display tank to keep pH stable, I came across the concept of Pico tanks, and started searching for viable livestock that I could place on a 1 gallon (10.25x5.5x5 inches)refug without the dividers.This might seem pointless as to why keep something in such a small container when you could place it in the main tank... well, what about species that require little flow, cant have contact with many other species, and are better in nano tanks, but nano tanks are very unstable parameter wise? well, the flow is pretty low and the constant cycling water would keep the temperature close to the main tank and the rest of the parameters, evaporatation wouldn’t be such a quick issue since the tank would cycle water in and out constantly. What about feeding? 55 lbs of live rock in the 40 breeder + 2 hob refugiums would create a quite decent amount of pods that could be sucked in by the pump intake and cycled throughou this hob ”Pico tank” to supplement feeding. The outtake comes with a little fence that could keep them from flowing out the week current by accident.Im still trying to think out the decor (algae) that would be best for the such a set up, so any ideas or tips from dwarf seahorse keepers would be appreciated.

 

[xxkenny90xx]

The main problem I'm seeing is that you'll want your seahorse tank to be a bit cooler than your old tank. And as for feeding you will need more than just copapods, I'd breed some baby brine shrimp

 

[Ramses0314]

The main problem I'm seeing is that you'll want your seahorse tank to be a bit cooler than your old tank. And as for feeding you will need more than just copapods, I'd breed some baby brine shrimp

I see, the temperature is preset to 78, would that be too high? and I mean copepods as a supplement, not main food source

 

[xxkenny90xx]

For the best chance of keeping your horses healthy you really want your water temp in the low 70s

 

[Ramses0314]

For the best chance of keeping your horses healthy you really want your water temp in the low 70s

uff, I see, Guess Ill try a different nano species

 

[UnderseaOddities]

Tips for Successfully Keeping Seahorses and Common Misconceptions

Debunking some common misconceptions with seahorse keeping. Helpful tips for successfully keeping larger species of captive bred seahorses including H. erectus. H. reidi, H. comes, and H. kuda.

seahorsesavvy.com

The sad reality of seahorse are that people impulse buy and dont do the research dwarf seahorse are small and rather hardy and get washed onshore alot and end up in what they call a brine pool making them a little more adept to hypo saline conditions and poor waterqaulity in my travels working for CSX I seen Cubans keep dwarves as they are Florida native and can be found quite commonly by piers in between thatching,and this is how they got their specimens,make sure you are buying captive bred and raised vs wild I've seen people keep dwarves in a 10 gallon with sponge filters the main thing is propper maintenance and stability and microbiological life more so your seahorse needs to graze all day and a propper setup should be seeded and rich in microfauna and macro algae no corals as they will sting these little guy have a gorgonian instead and macros also make sure you are able to keep water stable and dont kick up substrate basically these fish are a labor of love and if you haven't put in the time or research I wouldn't reccomend these to a beginner or a pro its something your gonna wanna have to do and have money to maintain

 

[UnderseaOddities]

I've been thinking about doing a 20g macro myself with some dwarfs but my mom is talking me out of it I am an adult(30 btw) it's just that alot of people aren't gonna be able to provide the stability and consistency that they need if you dont work then maybe you could pull it off but from my deduction seahorse need babies in a home system so I voted not a good idea

 

[UnderseaOddities]

If your gonna do it have a pod and rotifer reactor and a baby brine shrimp hatchery or 2 and pop decapsulated eggs in tank build up macro algae aswell and build a feeding station out of a 2l pop bottle top cut in half

 

[UnderseaOddities]

Some people make chains outta ziptieto so they can use this to anchor to at night or for enrichment or feeding

 

[UnderseaOddities]

Imma try it myself soon so I'll let you know how it works out and if you should try it I'm doing a 20g aqueon wit power filter and electric thermostat (figure about 300$setup total(20$ for 20g aqueon 25$fluval 20 powerfilter 20$livesand 15$live rock) 39.99 for 9 dwarfseahorse

 

[UnderseaOddities]

Budget build plus I figure itll be something to look at by the computer

 

[nursechristiern]

So in my endless researching looking for ways to turn a 40B into a tank viable for a mandarin (one of my fav fish) I stumbled into the finnex HOB refug. I tried one out and loved how fast the pod population exploded on it and bought two more. I realized I could only fit 2 on my back pannel where I keep the light holder... so I decided to used in one of the sides instead where it would get light from the main tank. Since the two would be hob refugiums with light cycles alternative to the display tank to keep pH stable, I came across the concept of Pico tanks, and started searching for viable livestock that I could place on a 1 gallon (10.25x5.5x5 inches)refug without the dividers.This might seem pointless as to why keep something in such a small container when you could place it in the main tank... well, what about species that require little flow, cant have contact with many other species, and are better in nano tanks, but nano tanks are very unstable parameter wise? well, the flow is pretty low and the constant cycling water would keep the temperature close to the main tank and the rest of the parameters, evaporatation wouldn’t be such a quick issue since the tank would cycle water in and out constantly. What about feeding? 55 lbs of live rock in the 40 breeder + 2 hob refugiums would create a quite decent amount of pods that could be sucked in by the pump intake and cycled throughou this hob ”Pico tank” to supplement feeding. The outtake comes with a little fence that could keep them from flowing out the week current by accident.Im still trying to think out the decor (algae) that would be best for the such a set up, so any ideas or tips from dwarf seahorse keepers would be appreciated.

You dont need anything bigger than a 10 gallon tank for dwarf seahorses. They are too small and have to have 12hrs of constant live baby brine shrimp . Anything smaller cant handle the bioload and anything bigger you cant keep enough density required for the dwarf seahorses. They also can't be with any other fish other than a pipefish. Feel free to get back to me and I will offer any advice that I can.

 

[Lana]

It is a lot of work. I have a fluval evo 13.5 g and I made a chamber into a refugium. I put the filter in chamber one and pulled the sponge all the way up so they can not be ducked up. My tank is highly seeded for grazing and I have to grow brine in 2 separate canisters so I always have them hatched. I had to get supplements aswell. The live rocks have to be dried live rocks so there are no hydroxide hiding in them. I use live sand and ocean water. I have gobies with them but I sit and make sure the seahorses eat. I'm a stay at home mom and babysit my niece so I'm always home to care for them. It's no joke that they take alot of care and time.. oh and expense.