Mind-blowing Palys dying in QT?

[KingReef16]

To all the experienced reefers out there - I am in need of your guidance! Totally new to all this.
I set up a very basic QT for my corals about 6 weeks ago and have my first set of frags in x 5.5 weeks. The frags are mostly zoas, plus one spearmint stylo, and a CB mind blowing paly. All have been doing just fine except for the Palys and I have no clue why!
QT is a 20g with basic filter and lighting that came with it. I used 1/2 water from my DT and 1/2 new water, new sand. Temp is 76-77 F, salinity is perfect, ammonia is non existent. I have been feeding them phytoplankton and reef roids about 2x’s/week. Also, I did a 5g water change yesterday. I noticed a few days ago that the biggest polyp of the Palys wasn’t opening. Then yesterday I noticed a closed polp had a clear bubble on it. I blew them all off with a turkey baster and pieces of dead/dying polyps came off. Why are they dying? What do I do?

 

[IslandLifeReef]

Did you use anything else from your DT tank other than water? Using DT tank water isn't the best way to seed a QT tank. Try putting a sponge in your sump for a few weeks, and then transfer that sponge to your QT tank. You can even rinse the detritus from the sponge and not lose the beneficial bacteria.

What are your other water parameters i.e. nitrate and phosphate? You may be over feeding the tank.

 

[KingReef16]

Did you use anything else from your DT tank other than water? Using DT tank water isn't the best way to seed a QT tank. Try putting a sponge in your sump for a few weeks, and then transfer that sponge to your QT tank. You can even rinse the detritus from the sponge and not lose the beneficial bacteria.

What are your other water parameters i.e. nitrate and phosphate? You may be over feeding the tank.

Thanks for the tip with the sponge! The water is the only thing I used from the DT.
NO2 = 0.2
NO3 = 9
dKH = 8
pH =8.2
I don’t have a test for phosphates. I guess I need to pick one up.

 

[KingReef16]

Correction. NO3 is 5

 

[KingReef16]

Anyone know if the CB Mindblowing Palys are of the super toxic variety?

 

[KingReef16]

It’s getting worse! Now there are more polyps closed and looking deteriorated. I did a 10g water change last night. I took a bag of matrix from my DT sump and put in the corner. This is what they are looking like now.

 

[BHHOWARD]

What type of light are you using?

 

[KingReef16]

What type of light are you using?

Crap lighting. The generic LED strip light that came in the hood of this little 20g tank. I couldn’t find any info on it. I mean, they’re decently bright, but no blues or anything. I have Reef Brite 50/50 strip lights coming Friday.
I know long term, proper lighting is important for growth and color, but will 4-5 weeks of this kind of lighting cause them to die?!?

 

[IslandLifeReef]

Crap lighting. The generic LED strip light that came in the hood of this little 20g tank. I couldn’t find any info on it. I mean, they’re decently bright, but no blues or anything. I have Reef Brite 50/50 strip lights coming Friday.
I know long term, proper lighting is important for growth and color, but will 4-5 weeks of this kind of lighting cause them to die?!?

It could be the lighting. Considering most corals get about 85% of their nutrition from light, a good light source is important.

I also see that your nitrites are at 0.2 ppm. While nitrite isn't toxic to most marine animals, it is the next stage in the nitrogen cycle after ammonia. What test are you using for ammonia? You may be going through a cycle, which would make since do to you not introducing any bacteria to cycle your tank.

 

[BillyReefer]

I don't know if i should write here, because i'm still a noob aswell but i have gained some experience over the last few months.
Where is your pally sitting? Directly under the light source or in shaded area? It looks like he's getting a ton of light on the first picture.
My zoa's were living but not thriving and my light was similiars to yours, quite white but a bit more bluer. Although white light can contain alot of blue in it without really being dominant visible to the eye.

My mate once came over, and told me my lighting was not balanced right. I was skeptical changing, because it "worked" for few months, so i didn't like the idea of changing stuff.. But eventually he convinced me and we started changing the light. He calculated the "right" settings to hit about 100 par (with his seneye meter) to start with and man the tank is looking so blue, i didn't like it at first. But after 2 weeks, some of my zoa's that have been there for over 6 months, have popped new heads. It's crazy what just lighting can do!! It's the only thing that changed, so it has to be the lighting.

Looking to your light, it's prob too much of the wrong spectrum and too much of it. That's my experience so far.

 

[KingReef16]

It could be the lighting. Considering most corals get about 85% of their nutrition from light, a good light source is important.

I also see that your nitrites are at 0.2 ppm. While nitrite isn't toxic to most marine animals, it is the next stage in the nitrogen cycle after ammonia. What test are you using for ammonia? You may be going through a cycle, which would make since do to you not introducing any bacteria to cycle your tank.

I’m using Red Sea marine care kit for testing. I guess I didn’t think I had to really cycle the tank for short term use coral only QT. (No CUC or anything). But I did stick a bag of matrix from my DT in there 2 days ago. I pointed the powerhead toward it to get a little water flow through it.
As far as lighting, I have a 12” of these coming in tomorrow: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/50-50-lumi-lite-strip-led-reef-brite.html
Do you think that’s enough?
I feel like such a terrible parent

 

[KingReef16]

I don't know if i should write here, because i'm still a noob aswell but i have gained some experience over the last few months.
Where is your pally sitting? Directly under the light source or in shaded area? It looks like he's getting a ton of light on the first picture.
My zoa's were living but not thriving and my light was similiars to yours, quite white but a bit more bluer. Although white light can contain alot of blue in it without really being dominant visible to the eye.

My mate once came over, and told me my lighting was not balanced right. I was skeptical changing, because it "worked" for few months, so i didn't like the idea of changing stuff.. But eventually he convinced me and we started changing the light. He calculated the "right" settings to hit about 100 par (with his seneye meter) to start with and man the tank is looking so blue, i didn't like it at first. But after 2 weeks, some of my zoa's that have been there for over 6 months, have popped new heads. It's crazy what just lighting can do!! It's the only thing that changed, so it has to be the lighting.

Looking to your light, it's prob too much of the wrong spectrum and too much of it. That's my experience so far.

Thanks for your insight! Newbie helping newbie lol I feel like a bad momma for not knowing how to take better care of them! I was/am starting to panic a little because I just don’t know what to do. I’m really hoping new lighting will be the answer. Especially since I have a new shipment of corals coming tomorrow!!

 

[IslandLifeReef]

I’m using Red Sea marine care kit for testing. I guess I didn’t think I had to really cycle the tank for short term use coral only QT. (No CUC or anything). But I did stick a bag of matrix from my DT in there 2 days ago. I pointed the powerhead toward it to get a little water flow through it.
As far as lighting, I have a 12” of these coming in tomorrow: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/50-50-lumi-lite-strip-led-reef-brite.html
Do you think that’s enough?
I feel like such a terrible parent

@KingReef16, why have you had your corals in a QT tank for 5.5 + weeks? I always thought the idea of a QT was to prevent disease and pests from getting into your DT. Have you found any pests on your corals? After 30 days, any pests or eggs from pests would be present by now. Have you considered moving your corals into your DT? It sounds to me that your QT may not be up to the task of housing corals for such a long period yet.

As far as that light goes, I really don't know if it is enough. The website recommends adding a actinic blue strip as well.

 

[KingReef16]

@KingReef16, why have you had your corals in a QT tank for 5.5 + weeks? I always thought the idea of a QT was to prevent disease and pests from getting into your DT. Have you found any pests on your corals? After 30 days, any pests or eggs from pests would be present by now. Have you considered moving your corals into your DT? It sounds to me that your QT may not be up to the task of housing corals for such a long period yet.

As far as that light goes, I really don't know if it is enough. The website recommends adding a actinic blue strip as well.

I read that 76 days of quarantine is the safest length of time to prevent ich and velvet. But 45 days is an option to protect against most things. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/coral-invert-quarantine-time-frames.334584/
I haven’t seen anything on my frags. I look at them very closely every day. And I am considering just going ahead and moving them to the DT at this point if this is just a lighting issue. And I will order an extra actinic light strip. I was afraid to blast them with too much! But that was before my Palys started crashing.

 

[IslandLifeReef]

I read that 76 days of quarantine is the safest length of time to prevent ich and velvet. But 45 days is an option to protect against most things. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/coral-invert-quarantine-time-frames.334584/
I haven’t seen anything on my frags. I look at them very closely every day. And I am considering just going ahead and moving them to the DT at this point if this is just a lighting issue. And I will order an extra actinic light strip. I was afraid to blast them with too much! But that was before my Palys started crashing.

Ich and velvet are fish diseases and do not effect corals. The biggest problems for corals are pests and algae on the plugs. I haven't heard of any pest that is harmful to corals that won't show up in 30 days or less.

If you've inspected your corals for pests and don't see any signs of bugs or eggs on the corals or on the plugs, I would move them to your DT.

 

[KingReef16]

Ich and velvet are fish diseases and do not effect corals. The biggest problems for corals are pests and algae on the plugs. I haven't heard of any pest that is harmful to corals that won't show up in 30 days or less.

If you've inspected your corals for pests and don't see any signs of bugs or eggs on the corals or on the plugs, I would move them to your DT.

I have fish in my DT. I got these coral frags from the Reefers Direct Live Sale. I don’t know if they came from a fishless tank or not. (I would guess they did, but I don’t know for sure).

 

[BHHOWARD]

Here's a good thread on QT times for coral/inverts: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/coral-invert-quarantine-time-frames.334584/

@Humblefish

 

[KingReef16]

Here's a good thread on QT times for coral/inverts: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/coral-invert-quarantine-time-frames.334584/

@Humblefish

I have been using this article as a guideline and I’m referring back to it. Thanks!

 

[KingReef16]

I got the Reef Brite 50/50 strip LED light today and immediately got it on my QT. Maybe it’s my imagination, but my Palys seem pretty happy about it! They have opened up and seem to be standing taller. I have another strip of actinic blue on its way. Hopefully they will bounce back

 

[IslandLifeReef]

I got the Reef Brite 50/50 strip LED light today and immediately got it on my QT. Maybe it’s my imagination, but my Palys seem pretty happy about it! They have opened up and seem to be standing taller. I have another strip of actinic blue on its way. Hopefully they will bounce back

That's good to hear. My Zoa's would reach out until I increased my lighting. I think they were asking for more. It seems you may be on the right track.