MORE sump questions.

seanarino

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It's me again, Margaret.

I cannot use graphs and don't know how to use all the stupid calculators people throw at me.

I have a 20 gallon tank. I will have a 10 gallon sump. Calculation (5x-10x turnover) says I should have a 100-200 gph return pump.

I have headloss of roughly 3' 4.5" (or 3.375 ft...) 1:1 with what BRS says (1' of vertical = 1' head loss).

What will my ideal higher-end return pump GPH be?
Additionally, how would I calculate the GPH to/from my overflow? I think I'm doing a Bean Animal overflow. Is that something I need to do? I'm making a HOB overflow since I can't drill my tanks.
 

Timfish

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Sumps can work with just one turnover an hour or even less. Just go with something that will push somewhere between your 100 - 200 GPH and have some kind of additional flow in your display tank.
 
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seanarino

seanarino

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Sumps can work with just one turnover an hour or even less. Just go with something that will push somewhere between your 100 - 200 GPH and have some kind of additional flow in your display tank.
Noted. I keep having an issue where nobody will tell me if this 480 GPH powerhead I got is okay for a standard 20 gallon tank, since they say powerheads are supposed to be 20x - 40x the turnover rate of your tank.
 

MarineandReef Jaron

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I think you are looking at this the wrong way. The most important thing is what size drain/ drains you have. Regardless of what is ideal, you do not want to overload your drains. In a tank, your size pumps are not very expensive at all and it is very easy to get 10x turnover. I would start with your drain size and then find a decent return pump to match. The price difference between a 400gph 600gph or 800gph pump is minimal so just buy the largest you can get that won't overwhelm your drain. This will reduce your need for circulation pumps and make any mechanical filtration in your sump work better.
 

Timfish

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Noted. I keep having an issue where nobody will tell me if this 480 GPH powerhead I got is okay for a standard 20 gallon tank, since they say powerheads are supposed to be 20x - 40x the turnover rate of your tank.

As noted above you don't want to overload you drain line, if you already have the 480 gph pump feel free to use it. There's just no magic number needed for running water through a sump/refugium.
 

Dburr1014

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It's me again, Margaret.

I cannot use graphs and don't know how to use all the stupid calculators people throw at me.

I have a 20 gallon tank. I will have a 10 gallon sump. Calculation (5x-10x turnover) says I should have a 100-200 gph return pump.

I have headloss of roughly 3' 4.5" (or 3.375 ft...) 1:1 with what BRS says (1' of vertical = 1' head loss).

What will my ideal higher-end return pump GPH be?
Additionally, how would I calculate the GPH to/from my overflow? I think I'm doing a Bean Animal overflow. Is that something I need to do? I'm making a HOB overflow since I can't drill my tanks.
DC pumps will have a controller that you can reduce the output.
I always buy bigger and tune them down.
Why?
1) easier on the pumps not running at 100% all the time.
2) if you like the hobby, maybe you will want to upgrade the tank. Well, you won't need to buy a bigger pump.
 

Blue Spot Octopus

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There is more than one way to................
I would not even put a sump on a 20 gallon tank, if you cannot drill it.
I did on my 25 IM Lagoon tank no rear chamber, face plant
So sump was over 200 bucks on sale,
Skimmer now for it 169 dollars
Matching sump ATO on sale 100 bucks Used.

I have/had a LifeReef overflow HOB, back then, it like lots of water volume, at the time no DC pump.
Too much trouble for the reward.
 
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seanarino

seanarino

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There is more than one way to................
I would not even put a sump on a 20 gallon tank, if you cannot drill it.
I did on my 25 IM Lagoon tank no rear chamber, face plant
So sump was over 200 bucks on sale,
Skimmer now for it 169 dollars
Matching sump ATO on sale 100 bucks Used.

I have/had a LifeReef overflow HOB, back then, it like lots of water volume, at the time no DC pump.
Too much trouble for the reward.
Just because you wouldn't doesn't mean someone else shouldn't.
I want to do a sump, because of the fact that I'm tired of having to have someone else stronger push the lid back onto my canister filter after I struggle for a half an hour or more.
It's just exhausting and I already bought a sump baffle kit.
 
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seanarino

seanarino

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I think you are looking at this the wrong way. The most important thing is what size drain/ drains you have. Regardless of what is ideal, you do not want to overload your drains. In a tank, your size pumps are not very expensive at all and it is very easy to get 10x turnover. I would start with your drain size and then find a decent return pump to match. The price difference between a 400gph 600gph or 800gph pump is minimal so just buy the largest you can get that won't overwhelm your drain. This will reduce your need for circulation pumps and make any mechanical filtration in your sump work better.
Guessing the drain refers to the drains in the overflow box - I *plan* on doing 1" (because someone told me that'd be the smallest I could feasibly go) pipes with the Bean Animal setup for safety.
 

MarineandReef Jaron

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With a 1in Bean animal overflow on a tank this size, I would personally use a pump rated at around 600 GPH. This will be more than enough turnover but will also provide some circulation.
 
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seanarino

seanarino

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With a 1in Bean animal overflow on a tank this size, I would personally use a pump rated at around 600 GPH. This will be more than enough turnover but will also provide some circulation.
Was about to say "wow, 600?" and then realized that I just put a 480 GPH powerhead in the tank and it feels puny.
 

Blue Spot Octopus

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You can do as you please, I know canister filters work I used to use them in the 80's, I would rather have a HOB reactor so I can put different types of media and floss in there, get a Tunze 9004 and call it a day. One reason why people gravitate towards a common goal is ease of use and lack of frustration.
 
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seanarino

seanarino

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You can do as you please, I know canister filters work I used to use them in the 80's, I would rather have a HOB reactor so I can put different types of media and floss in there, get a Tunze 9004 and call it a day. One reason why people gravitate towards a common goal is ease of use and lack of frustration.
I can't use HOB filters because of the sound of splashing water (tends to send me into a rage because I have misophonia). I have a canister filter but it's frustrating me because the lid doesn't want to go back on properly and I can't service it without someone stronger having to help me, which I don't like because that means I have to wait for someone to help me before I can even do anything. A sump doesn't exactly have to be loud or make splashing noises, and it can be hidden under a table / stand.
 

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