Reef Pi Build

buddy.

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Blue brown and green and the colours we use in Australia :D
I was really surprised to see your earth wire is not insulated in your earlier pics!
Anyways it looks like this build is coming along very nicely and should be an excellent guide for anyone who wants to build the reef pi.
 

Ranjib

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Blue brown and green and the colours we use in Australia :D
I was really surprised to see your earth wire is not insulated in your earlier pics!
Anyways it looks like this build is coming along very nicely and should be an excellent guide for anyone who wants to build the reef pi.
Adj sr-p8, the powerstrip we recommend in the guide is also uses bare copper strand as the gnd wire, internally. Michael has a pic in his build thread
 
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Since I had the multi meter out I decided to get the LM2596 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BLRQQK7 dialed in.
First I soldered 4 male header pins into the positive and negative ins and outs.

IMG_4207.JPG


Next I hooked up a 12 volt power supply to the + and - ins and the multi meter to the + and - outs.

IMG_4195.JPG


When it was first plugged in the multi meter read around 11 volts.

The specs in the build guide state that you need to dial the output voltage back to 5.1 volts. You can dial the voltage down by turning the brass screw counter clock wise until you get to 5.1.

Trim screw.jpg


IMG_4199.JPG

IMG_4197.JPG
 
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I should also add that here the brown is hot and blue is neutral and green/yellow being the earth.
Might be best to just double check your colours.

I checked the colors like 3 times. I will also be rechecking them when I add the power switch. After all the wire color confusion I'M double and triple checking every thing.
 
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Blue brown and green and the colours we use in Australia :D
I was really surprised to see your earth wire is not insulated in your earlier pics!
Anyways it looks like this build is coming along very nicely and should be an excellent guide for anyone who wants to build the reef pi.

Thanks. I'm hoping that it might make it a bit easier for those who are on the fence about doing it.
 

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wow! when I have more time I gotta go back and read this from page one I just skimmed it...
i have a resbery pi build for me a while back but never used it. question do you know if there is a software interface that ppl use to see things? if so where can I get it for mac? or is it an online web adress even better :D
 

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wow! when I have more time I gotta go back and read this from page one I just skimmed it...
i have a resbery pi build for me a while back but never used it. question do you know if there is a software interface that ppl use to see things? if so where can I get it for mac? or is it an online web adress even better :D

Can you explain this differently.. I am not sure what you are asking..
 
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wow! when I have more time I gotta go back and read this from page one I just skimmed it...
i have a resbery pi build for me a while back but never used it. question do you know if there is a software interface that ppl use to see things? if so where can I get it for mac? or is it an online web adress even better :D

The short answer is yes. The UI that reef pi uses is web based. I use VNC and you can remote access the interface and run it from almost any device. Mac, pc, phones tablet.
 

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The short answer is yes. The UI that reef pi uses is web based. I use VNC and you can remote access the interface and run it from almost any device. Mac, pc, phones tablet.

thanks i'll look into that and see as I have a full system built that i was gonna sale but might as well use it. or try anyway.
 
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Got the fused power socket wired up tonight
Should have the db9 connector tomorrow and will get that wired in as well. Once I get that done the power module will be ready to get sealed up. I plan on using silicone on all the seams and around the inside of the lid to seal the box

IMG_4232.JPG


power switch wiring.jpg


IMG_4236.JPG


IMG_4234.JPG
 
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Did a little work on the circuit board tonight. I got the 2- 20 stacking header, the IC socket, the 9 male header pins that connect to the db9, and the 2 header pins for the power 12 volt power supply all soldered.

IMG_4242.JPG


IMG_4241.JPG


When plugging in the ULN2803 pay attention to the orientation of the the chip, the ground and common need to be in the correct position for the chip to work properly. If you look closely at the chip you can see that one end is flat and the other end has a small divot. The flat end of the chip has the ground and common. The flat end goes to the left side of the proto board. Here's a link to the ULN2803 's circuit layout:
https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/datasheets/ULN2803A.pdf


IMG_4245.JPG


IMG_4248.JPG
 
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Made a little more progress tonight, got the db9 connector installed.

Since the box is about 1/4 inch thick and the db9 plug wouldn't mount to the wood, I had to drill a couple holes with a 3/4" Forstner bit and make a little plastic plate for it to mount to. I used some male to female jumper wires to connect the db9 to the relay control inputs.

I stripped off the male ends of the jumper wires and the tinned them.

Tinning your wires makes them easier to work with and makes for a better connection. If you don't know about tinning or soldering there's a ton of you tube videos out there that are very good.

Using the jumper wires with different colors made it easier for me to make sure I wired the one in the power module and the one in the pi the same way.


I will be using 2 of these. One for the power module and one for the pi.
IMG_4269.JPG


IMG_4270.JPG


IMG_4252.JPG


IMG_4258.JPG



I still have a few more things to do to the box, but this is what the finished product is going to look like.

IMG_4261.JPG
 

Ranjib

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Did a little work on the circuit board tonight. I got the 2- 20 stacking header, the IC socket, the 9 male header pins that connect to the db9, and the 2 header pins for the power 12 volt power supply all soldered.

IMG_4242.JPG


IMG_4241.JPG


When plugging in the ULN2803 pay attention to the orientation of the the chip, the ground and common need to be in the correct position for the chip to work properly. If you look closely at the chip you can see that one end is flat and the other end has a small divot. The flat end of the chip has the ground and common. The flat end goes to the left side of the proto board. Here's a link to the ULN2803 's circuit layout:
https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/datasheets/ULN2803A.pdf


IMG_4245.JPG


IMG_4248.JPG
Very clean soldering work :)
 
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Very clean soldering work :)

Thanks. I was a little worried about this part as I've never soldered on a PCB before. The only real issue I had was my IC socket is a 20 pin not an 18 but there was room and at the right side for it and an unused rail i could put the extra pin in.
 

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[/QUOTE]LIGHTING CONTROLLER
https://reef-pi.github.io/build-guides/lighting/

As of now these are the modules that are available with complete parts lists and circuit building specs. The ph probe is in development now and when it's available I will add it.

You can find the Reef Pi software here.
https://github.com/reef-pi/reef-pi/releases[/QUOTE]
I will be going to Menards tomorrow and getting the electrical outlets and wiring for my power supply.
The power supply is loosely based on this type of build.


Do yourself a favor and use the correct color wires. Black for hot, white for neutral and green for ground
 

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Curious with the Relay Wiring.

Mine are not wired that way Nor do i ever wire i switch like that.
From my POWER I Wired all the naturals together and to each of the outlets.
Cut the tab on the Hot side of each plug . Wired each plug to one side of the relay.
Wired the main power to the other side of each of the relay. I also have the Neutral connected to neutral on my pi .

My Question is where did you get the Wiring Guide ?
Mine is wired according to the Relay Manufacture which is different then yours but the relays look to the same or very similar. The reason i am asking is because maybe mine is incorrect but its been working fine for a VERY Long time..

Thanks in Advance Erica @Brew12 can you give your advice please ..

It's wired wrong. It will work but not the way it is designed to work. You'll have problems should you have anything cause a short.
 

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