Tunze Osomalator 3 Issue

jackson6745 · Jan 25, 2024

Hi,

Have a question on the top off operation. I’ve been using this top of on a new 200g for last month. I get some water height fluctuations with this “bean” overflow. 1/4 fluctuation in display = a gallon or 2 in sump chamber.

The top off pump will run for some time then just stop. It will be lit green with water level far below sensor. Last night it was getting close running dry. I had to manually add water.

Is this a Saftey setting because of too much top off at one time? If so is there a way to bypass this? I just want it to top off like old unit that we all love

Any help is appreciated.

loyalsockreefer · Jan 25, 2024

jackson6745 said:
Hi,

Have a question on the top off operation. I’ve been using this top of on a new 200g for last month. I get some water height fluctuations with this “bean” overflow. 1/4 fluctuation in display = a gallon or 2 in sump chamber.

The top off pump will run for some time then just stop. It will be lit green with water level far below sensor. Last night it was getting close running dry. I had to manually add water.

Is this a Saftey setting because of too much top off at one time? If so is there a way to bypass this? I just want it to top off like old unit that we all love Any help is appreciated.

Not sure on this model but generally they have a 5-10 second run shut down to prevent over filling and on my aquasmart needs reset after. Also this tunze just came out so feed back is gunna be minimal id assume, and as you know always problems with the first model of things. Btw as far as fluctuations in the display, I dealt with the same on my IM ext. make sure your gate valve is closed enough that the secondary drain pipe is getting a trickle of steady water and not below the pipe. took me a while to read that bean animal is designed to be used this way. I still needed a maggie muffler to silence my second drain. I think its because I plumbed with 45s instead of 90s though.

rvitko · Jan 25, 2024

The new one has essentially the same functions as the old one, it is just waterproof and the back up is replaced by a thermal sensor instead of a float switch. The green level light indicates it is detecting water, it has several different light codes compared to the old one and these are broken down in the manual, but if it timed out, just like the old one, it would show a red light. My hunch is something is on the sensor, I would take the protective cap off and check it, generally this sensor is much less sensitive to build up than the old one because it is so much larger, but in my own experience there are a few things that can do this in such a short time:

1)Carbon dosing, the biofilm will coat the sensor and can cause this.

2)A high level of surface film on the water, I have dealt with this on my kids Axolotyl tank, they are messy and the tank tends to always have a oily/proteinaceous surface film, after a couple months enough cakes up to blind the sensor.

3) Kalk dosing in close proximity to the sensor, while it is better at dealing with this, the old sensor could be blinded in days, the new one still will be blinded in around a month.

4) A lot of sediment and debris suspended in the water can coat the sensor and create a "bridge" between the protective cap and sensor that traps water.

5) Algae growth on the sensor, this is reduced by the cap, but still possible, especially if a growlight is in the area. The growlight spectrum itself can also blind the sensor but the cap does reduce this issue compared to the old one, it all depends here on if the light can get in through the slits in the cap.

Joe's Coral Reef · Jan 25, 2024

If the light is green it means its at the water level and ok. Do you have a fuge light that could be throwing the sensor off. Did you try taking cover off and wiping sensor? If it timed out due to running to long it would be flashing red.

jackson6745 · Jan 25, 2024

rvitko said:
The new one has essentially the same functions as the old one, it is just waterproof and the back up is replaced by a thermal sensor instead of a float switch. The green level light indicates it is detecting water, it has several different light codes compared to the old one and these are broken down in the manual, but if it timed out, just like the old one, it would show a red light. My hunch is something is on the sensor, I would take the protective cap off and check it, generally this sensor is much less sensitive to build up than the old one because it is so much larger, but in my own experience there are a few things that can do this in such a short time:

1)Carbon dosing, the biofilm will coat the sensor and can cause this.

2)A high level of surface film on the water, I have dealt with this on my kids Axolotyl tank, they are messy and the tank tends to always have a oily/proteinaceous surface film, after a couple months enough cakes up to blind the sensor.

3) Kalk dosing in close proximity to the sensor, while it is better at dealing with this, the old sensor could be blinded in days, the new one still will be blinded in around a month.

4) A lot of sediment and debris suspended in the water can coat the sensor and create a "bridge" between the protective cap and sensor that traps water.

5) Algae growth on the sensor, this is reduced by the cap, but still possible, especially if a growlight is in the area. The growlight spectrum itself can also blind the sensor but the cap does reduce this issue compared to the old one, it all depends here on if the light can get in through the slits in the cap.

1) Not Carbon dosing
2) No noticeable surface film
3) Not kalk doisng but 2 part + MG gets dosed into that sump section.
4) No more debris than my my last several tanks with old optical top off and no issues, if we can use that as a gauge?
5) There's no algae growth. Sensor is very clean looking under the protective cap. I don't run a fuge or have a grow light.

Sound like either way this probe could use a cleaning to remove a micro bro film that might be possible causing the issue. What would you recommend?

jackson6745 · Jan 25, 2024

Joe's Coral Reef said:
If the light is green it means its at the water level and ok. Do you have a fuge light that could be throwing the sensor off. Did you try taking cover off and wiping sensor? If it timed out due to running to long it would be flashing red.

only wiped with my finger. I'll grab a paper towel and wipe it down.

jackson6745 · Jan 25, 2024

Well the paper towel wipe has it working again. Simple. I was just going off maintenance of older unit optical sensor. I would only clean that one every 6 months or so.

Is there a recommended cleaning time on the new design?

jackson6745 · Jan 27, 2024

rvitko said:
The new one has essentially the same functions as the old one, it is just waterproof and the back up is replaced by a thermal sensor instead of a float switch. The green level light indicates it is detecting water, it has several different light codes compared to the old one and these are broken down in the manual, but if it timed out, just like the old one, it would show a red light. My hunch is something is on the sensor, I would take the protective cap off and check it, generally this sensor is much less sensitive to build up than the old one because it is so much larger, but in my own experience there are a few things that can do this in such a short time:

1)Carbon dosing, the biofilm will coat the sensor and can cause this.

2)A high level of surface film on the water, I have dealt with this on my kids Axolotyl tank, they are messy and the tank tends to always have a oily/proteinaceous surface film, after a couple months enough cakes up to blind the sensor.

3) Kalk dosing in close proximity to the sensor, while it is better at dealing with this, the old sensor could be blinded in days, the new one still will be blinded in around a month.

4) A lot of sediment and debris suspended in the water can coat the sensor and create a "bridge" between the protective cap and sensor that traps water.

5) Algae growth on the sensor, this is reduced by the cap, but still possible, especially if a growlight is in the area. The growlight spectrum itself can also blind the sensor but the cap does reduce this issue compared to the old one, it all depends here on if the light can get in through the slits in the cap.

Same issue a couple days later after wiping with a paper towel and rodi water. I don’t see anything on the sensor. These isn’t visible film or anything that I can feel on the sensor. Another wipe with a paper towel and it started working again. This seems real fickle. This can’t be proper working operation. Please advise.