All of the above……
And some luck. You’ll always need a least a little bit.
And some luck. You’ll always need a least a little bit.
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I am a Kessil fan and I had a 360x over a 18x18x18 cube and it grew everything and only had to be ran at 40%. The Kessil logic allows you to go from white to winded blue and still maintain the proper spectrum throughout. I currently have a ap9x on my 50 gallon and the Kessil lights allow you to start off blue and whiten up the color along with intensity as the day progresses and then back to blues in the evening simulating sun rise and sun set. Also, I’m an old school reefer who loved the old halides and the Kessil lights are as close to the halide look as you can get including the “shimmer” effect. You don’t need a par meter because BRS has already mapped out the Kessil lights at different depths and distances from light source. Your tank is under the 24” with so you should be ok.Why do you recommend the Kessil a360x tuna blue over the comparable Radion XR15 G6 blue?
But your not blasting full white light in the spectrum are you?I tried out Photone and read 500 PAR at the surface, exactly what RedSea claims. I'm going to test again with a waterproof phone case to get readings throughout the tank. It's so awesome that an app like Photone exists when testing PAR in the past was a huge investment or inconvenience.
That measurement was taken with my light settings at what I've been running, 100% blue, 50% white. According to RedSea that should be 15k. Looks blue but not super blue.But your not blasting full white light in the spectrum are you?
Do you only have blue and white spectrum? That's a high percentage of white.That measurement was taken with my light settings at what I've been running, 100% blue, 50% white. According to RedSea that should be 15k. Looks blue but not super blue.
I think it's like the Kessil where the majority of the PAR comes from the blue and the white is just for looks. I chose 15k because according to RedSea's table that's where PUR is highest.Do you only have blue and white spectrum? That's a high percentage of white.
Most run white at 25% or less to limit nuisance algae. White is only for viewing pleasure.I think it's like the Kessil where the majority of the PAR comes from the blue and the white is just for looks. I chose 15k because according to RedSea's table that's where PUR is highest.
You can run Kessels 100% whites and still keep everything in spectrum. That’s the nice thing about the Kessil logic. it will grow algae like a champ tho.I think it's like the Kessil where the majority of the PAR comes from the blue and the white is just for looks. I chose 15k because according to RedSea's table that's where PUR is highest.
That is "live" rock?I set up a 33g Red Sea MAX NANO G2 XL about 30 days ago. I used real uncured Australian live rock, but there wasn't too much die-off and the cycle completed on day 18 with the addition of bottled bacteria each day. I did a few large water changes and the nutrients are now low. I have one fish, one shrimp, and I feed a small amount of frozen mysis and sinking pellets daily. Two more small fish are arriving on Friday. The fish, GSP, and the shrimp seem to be thriving. I picked up a Montipora palawanensis yesterday, and so far, so good.
This is my third reef tank and I think I understand the requirements to keep Acropora alive, but I want to see if there's anything I'm missing or if there's any new technology I should think about getting I'm missing before getting a few frags.
I have some questions:
- Salinity 1.025
- pH 8.2
- Alkalinity 9.3 dKH (down from 9.6 yesterday).
- Calcium 441 ppm
- Magnesium 1205 ppm
- Ammonia 0 ppm
- Nitrite 0 ppm
- Nitrate 3.5 ppm
- Phosphate: 0.10 ppm
And in general, is there anything else I might be missing?
- Should I upgrade the ReefLED50 light that came with the tank? The tank is roughly 20" x 20" x 20". If so, which light should I upgrade to? I've read that the Radion XR15 might be better since it's a more powerful light with better spread. Or is it overkill for a 33g tank?
- Since I'd be getting frags, not colonies, would the Alk and calcium uptake initially be high enough to have to dose with 2 part or similar, with weekly 15% water changes? What about with 30%?
- Should I set up a full testing + dosing system for full 24/7 Alk+Calcium+Magnesium control like Hydros or Neptune before attempting to keep Acropora? I have Hanna checkers that I used to get these measurements, but I don't see myself testing any of these params besides Alk on a daily basis since it takes a long time. I can test the other params weekly.
- Is a pH monitoring and control system recommended? Since I'm in an apartment, I'm worried about pH dropping when we have guests over.
Here's a pic:
Thanks! And of course, more data is always welcomeNice frags! I know you already got your light but if you would like to check out my tank under kessils I am happy to share.
Thanks! And of course, more data is always welcome
But not Acropora…. Monti’s, Stylo’s etc will probably be fine but Acro’s not so much…Basically, if you can grow coralline, you can start with sps. When you already can guess what your nutrient uptake will be and you are no longer adding or removing filter media and you know your system really well, you can keep sps. As others have mentioned, you can try some hardier sps whenever you want, just maybe don’t go buying speciosa right out the gate.
I think there are plenty of acros that are easier than montis, etc.But not Acropora…. Monti’s, Stylo’s etc will probably be fine but Acro’s not so much…
Could you elaborate a bit, maybe some examples? I've recently been getting into sps and acros so this is of extra interest to meI think there are plenty of acros that are easier than montis, etc.
Green slinerCould you elaborate a bit, maybe some examples? I've recently been getting into sps and acros so this is of extra interest to me
I set up a 33g Red Sea MAX NANO G2 XL about 30 days ago. I used real uncured Australian live rock, but there wasn't too much die-off and the cycle completed on day 18 with the addition of bottled bacteria each day. I did a few large water changes and the nutrients are now low. I have one fish, one shrimp, and I feed a small amount of frozen mysis and sinking pellets daily. Two more small fish are arriving on Friday. The fish, GSP, and the shrimp seem to be thriving. I picked up a Montipora palawanensis yesterday, and so far, so good.
This is my third reef tank and I think I understand the requirements to keep Acropora alive, but I want to see if there's anything I'm missing or if there's any new technology I should think about getting I'm missing before getting a few frags.
I have some questions:
- Salinity 1.025
- pH 8.2
- Alkalinity 9.3 dKH (down from 9.6 yesterday).
- Calcium 441 ppm
- Magnesium 1205 ppm
- Ammonia 0 ppm
- Nitrite 0 ppm
- Nitrate 3.5 ppm
- Phosphate: 0.10 ppm
And in general, is there anything else I might be missing?
- Should I upgrade the ReefLED50 light that came with the tank? The tank is roughly 20" x 20" x 20". If so, which light should I upgrade to? I've read that the Radion XR15 might be better since it's a more powerful light with better spread. Or is it overkill for a 33g tank?
- Since I'd be getting frags, not colonies, would the Alk and calcium uptake initially be high enough to have to dose with 2 part or similar, with weekly 15% water changes? What about with 30%?
- Should I set up a full testing + dosing system for full 24/7 Alk+Calcium+Magnesium control like Hydros or Neptune before attempting to keep Acropora? I have Hanna checkers that I used to get these measurements, but I don't see myself testing any of these params besides Alk on a daily basis since it takes a long time. I can test the other params weekly.
- Is a pH monitoring and control system recommended? Since I'm in an apartment, I'm worried about pH dropping when we have guests over.
Here's a pic: