DIY Durso

[emureef]

Welp wanted a durso for my new tank so i decided to get all the materials and do it myself.

For a parts list just look up durso in google and you'll find it.

I would guess that all parts and such bought = about 12$

Since i have a 1" bulk head i went with the 1 1/4" PVC for the main durso than bought some 1" pvc for the connector to the bulk head.

I was able to find all pieces at lowes.

Here are all the pieces laid out.

According to the durso website you might want to cut down the street 90 degree elbow, to get a snug fit. So i fit mine to the T and kinda guessed and made a cut.

The street elbow and the T are than glued together of course using purple primer, and PVC cement, i just put the primer on and let sit while i got the glue can opened and just slobbed it on, dries rather quickly too.

Than i took the 1 1/4" coupling and the 1 1/4" to 1" reducer and glued those together.

I kinda just guessed at how much 1" pipe to use. Since i went with a slip bulk head i didnt need a threaded adapter. This was a smart move on my part as it would have been interesting trying to twist that all in there.

Glued the 1" pvc into the reducer

I figured it would be easier to figure out the height i needed for the durso body of the 1 1/4" pvc.
This is where i feel i made a bit of mistake, what i would do next time is dry fit the 1 1/4" pvc into the bushing, than place it in the over flow and check the height, cut than put the T on the body.

Mine i feel is a bit short but ill live with it, i couldnt change it because i had already glued it.

here is the body cut and the T placed on it. The T is not glued to the body. NOT GLUED TO THE BODY. Im just slipping mine on, it says to use teflon tape but mine seems snug.

I checked the height and kinda guess at how tall to make the top of the durso where the cap goes, it doesnt really matter how high you make it, they say to the trim of your tank or a little passed it.

The 1 1/4" pvc between the T and the Cap, Is glued to the T ONLY!!!! T ONLY!!!!! the cap can be made snug with Teflon tap. Dont forget to drill the cap, but that can be done whenever before you add water. i did a 1/16" hole, which can be changed if you need too.

Finished product.

 

[emureef]

The Cap where you drill the air hole will have to be adjusted to accommodate your return, bigger return pumps the hole has to be drilled bigger, start small and make your way up untill your happy.

 

[btkrausen]

Nice write up with pics. I've been thinking about changing mine up, and using a 4 way fitting instead of the T. This way I can come off of the main pipe with 2 elbows, one on each side. This way if something blocks one side of it, the other side will continue to drain for you. Probably going to be trying this on both of my tanks soon.

 

[btkrausen]

Also, you don't need the top part with the cap so high if you don't need. My drilled cap basically touches the end of the T, instead of having the extra PVC in there, and it works just as well.

Just wanted to throw that out there in case somebody had any tight spots for canopy use or whatever.

 

[emureef]

Also, you don't need the top part with the cap so high if you don't need. My drilled cap basically touches the end of the T, instead of having the extra PVC in there, and it works just as well.

Just wanted to throw that out there in case somebody had any tight spots for canopy use or whatever.

good addition, yea i just figured why not since i didnt need to worry about height. And using a 4 way fitting would be a good idea if you had the room to do. I like it my tank is very quiet with the durso.

 

[btkrausen]

Yeah, a durso will quiet down the return to nothing, its fantastic.

My return pipe isn't behind a overflow box like yours, its just kinda out in the open, so there is room. Might try it on my frag tank first, since it almost overflowed(is that a word?) it yesterday

 

[tangboy]

Wish I had known about this instead of buying the $50 overflow kit that had stuff I didn't need. Will use this info on the next tank build, thanks for the pics and post!

 

[emureef]

Wish I had known about this instead of buying the $50 overflow kit that had stuff I didn't need. Will use this info on the next tank build, thanks for the pics and post!

Yea i figured this will come in handy for people setting up there tanks. Its easy and fairly cheap along with its dead silence I def dont regret going with a durso.

 

[Ponraj A]

This is what I have made after seeing the above with all the left over pipes in my house, thanks you so much now my living room is quite

 

[zoomonster]

Just a tip... they make clear pvc cleaner that makes for a nicer looking end product w/o all the purple stains. The other benefit of the clear is you can use it to wipe all the markings right off the PVC. If its hidden away maybe you don't care but it really makes for nicer looking under tank plumbing.

The other thing is that durso's are not usually glued together. You should be able to lift the top assembly off the pipe for cleaning or to adjust position. A perforated down pipe on that elbow would also help further with noise. Mine came with my DSA tank and not sure where you could find the perforated pipe. As for the air hole mine was the size of standard air line which was useful because when they are new they have a habit of whistling until they are broken in. The solution for the whistling is sticking a short piece of airline in the hole.

 

[revhtree]

This is what I have made after seeing the above with all the left over pipes in my house, thanks you so much now my living room is quite

Awesome!

 

[Ryengoth]

I made a high-flow drain muffler for my overflow durso top with some tight open cell phone like seat cushion foam. I trashed the tiny-hole cap and this flows better.

 

[jasonrusso]

I have threaded bulkheads so I used a 1 1/4" to 1" reducer. That is the only joint I glued. My corner overflows are tight so there isn't enough room to unscrew them. I just pull the "T" straight up and unscrew the pipe. I also had to cut down the street elbow and the "T" piece to make it fit. The PVC is a tight fit, and who cares if it leaks? Where is it going to go. I bought a bunch of caps to experiment on different drill sizes. They are pennies.

 

[This Guy Reef]

Great idea!

 

[Ponraj A]

Just a tip... they make clear pvc cleaner that makes for a nicer looking end product w/o all the purple stains. The other benefit of the clear is you can use it to wipe all the markings right off the PVC. If its hidden away maybe you don't care but it really makes for nicer looking under tank plumbing.

The other thing is that durso's are not usually glued together. You should be able to lift the top assembly off the pipe for cleaning or to adjust position. A perforated down pipe on that elbow would also help further with noise. Mine came with my DSA tank and not sure where you could find the perforated pipe. As for the air hole mine was the size of standard air line which was useful because when they are new they have a habit of whistling until they are broken in. The solution for the whistling is sticking a short piece of airline in the hole.

Thanks for you suggestion, as I have said i have tried to use it with the left off materials in my home and I have also inserted an small pvc air tube connector on the top hole to avoid the whistling. As you side once I have finished I heard the whistling and again I got frustrated and sudden got this in my mind and tried it. I have not also glued the entire set up of pipes, for easy maintenance. It was so quiet now and my dogs which use to sleep in my living room are happy now

 

[stevieduk]

Welp wanted a durso for my new tank so i decided to get all the materials and do it myself.

For a parts list just look up durso in google and you'll find it.

I would guess that all parts and such bought = about 12$

Since i have a 1" bulk head i went with the 1 1/4" PVC for the main durso than bought some 1" pvc for the connector to the bulk head.

I was able to find all pieces at lowes.

Here are all the pieces laid out.

According to the durso website you might want to cut down the street 90 degree elbow, to get a snug fit. So i fit mine to the T and kinda guessed and made a cut.

The street elbow and the T are than glued together of course using purple primer, and PVC cement, i just put the primer on and let sit while i got the glue can opened and just slobbed it on, dries rather quickly too.

Than i took the 1 1/4" coupling and the 1 1/4" to 1" reducer and glued those together.

I kinda just guessed at how much 1" pipe to use. Since i went with a slip bulk head i didnt need a threaded adapter. This was a smart move on my part as it would have been interesting trying to twist that all in there.

Glued the 1" pvc into the reducer

I figured it would be easier to figure out the height i needed for the durso body of the 1 1/4" pvc.
This is where i feel i made a bit of mistake, what i would do next time is dry fit the 1 1/4" pvc into the bushing, than place it in the over flow and check the height, cut than put the T on the body.

Mine i feel is a bit short but ill live with it, i couldnt change it because i had already glued it.

here is the body cut and the T placed on it. The T is not glued to the body. NOT GLUED TO THE BODY. Im just slipping mine on, it says to use teflon tape but mine seems snug.

I checked the height and kinda guess at how tall to make the top of the durso where the cap goes, it doesnt really matter how high you make it, they say to the trim of your tank or a little passed it.

The 1 1/4" pvc between the T and the Cap, Is glued to the T ONLY!!!! T ONLY!!!!! the cap can be made snug with Teflon tap. Dont forget to drill the cap, but that can be done whenever before you add water. i did a 1/16" hole, which can be changed if you need too.

Finished product.

what a mess

 

[Fishnerd7]

I have threaded bulkheads so I used a 1 1/4" to 1" reducer. That is the only joint I glued. My corner overflows are tight so there isn't enough room to unscrew them. I just pull the "T" straight up and unscrew the pipe. I also had to cut down the street elbow and the "T" piece to make it fit. The PVC is a tight fit, and who cares if it leaks? Where is it going to go. I bought a bunch of caps to experiment on different drill sizes. They are pennies.

Jason,
Thanks for chiming in on your threaded bulkheads. I just bought 4 threaded bulkheads because that's all my LFS had. Starting at the beginning of this thread I was slowly freaking out a bit. I can stop throwing stuff around now. lol. This hobby is like golf sometimes. I've been known to launch a putter and feel better afterwards. Saltwater aquariums.....can't throw anything cause everything's delicate. I just drink a lot of coffee and pout. lol