Fauna Marine Balling Light Trace Elements

-Logzor

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I noticed that BRS began carrying these products and I'm trying to learn more about the trace elements that you add to traditional 2-part dosing.

Are theses just basic trace elements or do they require ULNS tank parameters?

Has anyone used them before and noticed a positive impact on their corals? The costs seem pretty low for just the trace elements 1-3.
 

asmashling

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i am from from switzerland and i am using the Balling Light Method about the last 3 years. It is just amazing and working. I think i can help you out, but i am not quite sure what means "ULNS" Tank Parameters :D
 

asmashling

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Thanks Dowtish!

Okay. I can try my best, but i think Claude from Fauna Marin, who is very active in Forums will notice this thread to answer with a better knowledge then i can do.

Balling or Balling Light is a system which is close to your american way/2 Part Method but better :p

Fauna Marin has added his own balanced trace elements to the Balling Method, because most of the theoretical guys think that one problem causing the "old tank syndrom" after years, is that many of us are inserting "regular" trace elements into our tanks which can not be sorted out by the skimmer. You can measure how much CA, ALK and MG your tank consumes but you will not know, how much regular trace elements it will need - someone who can do this would be a magician.

Claude or better "you" add an fix amount of trace elements to the 3 solutions - and as you will only dose those into the tank by the literal needs it will be consumed and not "stored". (Don`t know if this is the correct word. I mean: it will not stay in your tank)

It just works like a charm, is easy to install, easy to manage and delivers stable results for all 3 values.

Fauna Marin has released also new "Color Elements" which are.. stunning. What i really like about them is, that "behind" is a man (Claude) with a undefinable perfect theoretical understanding but with practical test and experience over years also. Everything he is selling is tested in his own tanks for at least two years.

The Color Elements had also a huge impact after 3 Weeks of Dosing in my tank. My corals gained much more and intensive color. And i am still having trouble with my NO3..
 

Aquaph8

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Id also like to hear more about the product but Im kinda confused. Even if you add these "trace elements" separate how is that any better. Without testing for each individual element you still wouldn't know what your adding or if there was any build up. How is this system any different than the many other systems out there?
 

LILBUDDHA

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Maybe this will help a little . It was a Q N A session back in 2010.I don't think the coral elements were out during this time frame .

I use balling salts but not these products . Water changes are part of the regimen .

I am sure Mr. S will pop in here but with the addition of these new produts seems like balling light is almost to the brink of full ballling .

HTH


Interview with Claude Schuhmacher on the balling method from Fauna Marin
 
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Aquaph8

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Aren't water changes the secret to balancing micronutrients anyway regardless of the method.
 
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I'm still trying to figure out if balling light requires ULNS and associated tank parameters, such as running lower Alk levels.
 

LILBUDDHA

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I'm still trying to figure out if balling light requires ULNS and associated tank parameters, such as running lower Alk levels.

Not UNLS per se but at or close to NSW levels .
It does state that Fauna marin adds bio-activ compounds in the salts though . Easy to interpet that as a form of carbon dosing .

Fauna Marin Balling light salts contain also special marine biopolymers and some minerals. The salts and Polymers stabilize the PH Level and increase color and grow of the corals. Normal salts cannot do this and after long time run the PH level will fall. With the balling light system all these problems will not happen.


In the balling manual it states


The following water values should be produced during continuous operation
* Calcium 380 – 420 mg/litre
* Magnesium 1200 – 1350 mg/litre
* Alkalinity 6.5 – 8 dkH
* Salinity 33 – 35 per mil

I have friends that use the FM salts and swear by them . I am not one of them . There are about 3 others on the market .


For those interested in the Balling Calculator u can get it here . It is in English and German . The file is about 8 mb.

http://www.euroreefers.eu/index.php?page=DownloadDBData&dataID=13

Some more info .

Here is the Manual .

http://static.faunamarin.de/manuals/manual_balling-methode_eng.pdf
 
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asmashling

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I have friends that use the FM salts and swear by them . I am not one of them . There are about 3 others on the market .


For those interested in the Balling Calculator u can get it here . It is in English and German . The file is about 8 mb.

[/COLOR]http://www.euroreefers.eu/index.php?page=DownloadDBData&dataID=13

Some more info .

Here is the Manual .

http://static.faunamarin.de/manuals/manual_balling-methode_eng.pdf[/LEFT]

the link to aquacalculator is not working for me.. but i don't know for what it should be used.. the very old and ****te because wrong "balling classic" method required calculating. the "real" balling or balling light works with 3 kanisters, alk, ca and mg which will be mixed everytime with the same values like: disolve 500 gram of hydrogencarbon (hope thats correct word - alk) in 4 litres of rodi water add another liter of rodi in the canister. then you give a 25ml shot of the third trace elements and the polition is finished. you can then cLculate how much your tank consume and break that down in 12 parts for example and give those part/12 via a dosing part into the system..

same procedure for ca and mg..

you just insert "what is needed" into the tank
 
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-Logzor

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the link to aquacalculator is not working for me.. but i don't know for what it should be used.. the very old and ****te because wrong "balling classic" method required calculating. the "real" balling or balling light works with 3 kanisters, alk, ca and mg which will be mixed everytime with the same values like: disolve 500 gram of hydrogencarbon (hope thats correct word - alk) in 4 litres of rodi water add another liter of rodi in the canister. then you give a 25ml shot of the third trace elements and the polition is finished. you can then cLculate how much your tank consume and break that down in 12 parts for example and give those part/12 via a dosing part into the system..

same procedure for ca and mg..

you just insert "what is needed" into the tank

That makes sense. I already dose 2 part and magnesium but I run a higher alkalinity. Is there something about the balling light method that causes issues with higher Alk levels?
 

LILBUDDHA

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the link to aquacalculator is not working for me.. but i don't know for what it should be used.. the very old and ****te because wrong "balling classic" method required calculating. the "real" balling or balling light works with 3 kanisters, alk, ca and mg which will be mixed everytime with the same values like: disolve 500 gram of hydrogencarbon (hope thats correct word - alk) in 4 litres of rodi water add another liter of rodi in the canister. then you give a 25ml shot of the third trace elements and the polition is finished. you can then cLculate how much your tank consume and break that down in 12 parts for example and give those part/12 via a dosing part into the system..

same procedure for ca and mg..

you just insert "what is needed" into the tank

U have to copy paste the link in a browser NVM Looks like the link took this time .

U must use a program like winrar to open and use it . I tried the android ap but it doesn't work after I scan it.

Download Database - FxM and Reef Forum - EUROPE
 

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Aren't water changes the secret to balancing micronutrients anyway regardless of the method.

Of course, but is it possible that these levels are being depleted before the next water change, and that a continuous drip might keep them more stable? I think this is the main purpose of the method.


.
 
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-Logzor

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Does this involve any organic carbon dosing or is it purely trace elements that are dosed.

I guess I'm concerned there is going to be something like zeospur2 that just causes your corals to expel zooxanthelle.
 

asmashling

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Does this involve any organic carbon dosing or is it purely trace elements that are dosed.

I guess I'm concerned there is going to be something like zeospur2 that just causes your corals to expel zooxanthelle.

no organic carbon, no sulfur so far. They have a BioPellet Reactor which deliveres the carbon source - but it is not needed to drive the balling light method.
 

asmashling

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Of course, but is it possible that these levels are being depleted before the next water change, and that a continuous drip might keep them more stable? I think this is the main purpose of the method.


.

You are right - you just insert the Alk, MG, CA into the tank which is needed. With only water change and a ton of corals - it could happen that it consumes the alk a day later - not with balling light.
And the trick is not only about dosing the alk, ca and mg - but dosing the correct trace elements in the needed amount every day which makes the tank much more stable and prevent the OTS..
 
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