5 Gallon Marineland Build (Advice Wanted)

Teebo

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I'm finally going to do it, I made the choice to try a saltwater tank, I maintain planted freshwater tanks and have been doing my research...plus I watch a lot of BRS-TV lol

I am in no rush to stock the tank but I did order it already, should be here this week. I have already gotten the wrap about starting with a small tank from people and I understand their points but I have decided to go with it anyway due to space. It will be bedside so forgetting to top it off precisely every day will not be an issue, I will do this right. Starting with being very patience I am in no rush to stock it, I will cycle the tank for a good 3 months using live some-what cured rock and live rock rubble that is all readily available from my LFS for $8/lb. People tell me with such a small tank about 5lb of live rock not to bother dipping it first? I also will not bother using live sand since it is such a small amount and I have easy access to live rock 20 minutes away. If I find a really ruby red chunk at the LFS but its has no character to it or is too big can I just frag some off it leaving a new clean surface exposed? I am gathering the proper SW test kits, refractometer, etc, in the meantime...any recommendations on salt? Seems like Red Sea products are popular, Coral Pro? Does anyone think adding something such as BIO-Spira is worth it with live rock? I do plan on letting it set for several months, I will add a cleanup crew when people think it is safe I will wait the 3 months if I have to. When it comes time to add a fish I will consult the community wisely first as it would have to be humane, small, not need the space to be an active swimmer, etc. I may not even add a fish with it being so small but at least the cleanup crew will add some movement and the coral eventually are what I am after.

The lighting that comes with this tank supposedly will work for some corals because there is evidence of it growing coralline algae for this individual:
I have done the research in lighting kelvin temperatures and it is generally agreed that anything over 7200k is purely for aesthetics. Personally I feel almost all living things can benefit of temps as high as 10,000k that is what I use for sunlamps (personal health) and on some planted tanks it really does not look purple/blue for very long. I have several spares I can use, I am not sure of the factory wattage on the light-bar that comes with the tank but these are 15w directional bulbs (5x 3w)
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Another great reason for me to upgrade the lighting to my bulbs is that I can hang some higher to grow plants in the rear mini-sump section. No I am not referring to micro-algae the space for hardware back there is way too small for that, but a Mangrove tree I think would look nice and from my freshwater experiences with ripariums anything that uses tank water with emerging foliage uses a great deal of nitrates (not sure about phosphates?) but would not help nearly as much as the massive water changes I will be performing without a skimmer. The tree can be topped and pruned to grow into more of a shrub with dense foliage, and all I have to do is use a circle saw to drill a hole in the rear cover to insert a basket. Once the roots really take off back there it may be more effective than you think in a small tank like this between water changes. Another mod I was thinking about for the rear is a secondary pump and nozzle set. This would be way more sleek than trying to cram the smallest unsightly powerhead in the front of the tank, with a nozzle now mounted in an opposing location I could use timers to stagger them and create a differentiated flow...not exactly a wavemaker though I do not want to burn the pumps out with on/off cycle too tight together.
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powers2001

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In the video, the black fish is a three spot domino damsel. Warning: they are hellions. The plan is good except you don't frag liverock but you can cut it with a hacksaw.
 
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Teebo

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I wouldn't dare put anything in there he has including the clown, but good to know I can hack up a rock (or smash pieces away with a mason hammer?) I feel a saw will leave unnatural edges.
 
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Teebo

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Doing research following Fluval Spec threads I see a common upgrade is a Mini-Jet 606...would I benefit from that too? I do not know what my flow rate is yet in GPH but I assume the Mini-Jet 606 will still be substantially higher?

I see another addition is Hydor rotating deflectors, can I use one with the factory return? I really do not want to use a powerhead in the front display of this tank...

Another Fluval Spec mod is an In-Tank media basket but I do not think they make one to fit this tank. I saw these refillable media cartridges in a thread has anyone found one to fit the Contour 5? Would be great to just stuff with filter floss if I could find one...
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Teebo

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Yes, I did not plan on running any media at first but now I am thinking some Chemi-pure Blue will go a long way in this tank since I am removing the Carbon in favor of filter floss. It is believed it contains GFO, but I am unsure if the carbon really lasts as long as they claim. Either way Carbon + GFO in one product sounds good to me! It will remove phosphates but will it help with nitrates??

Stock flow rate is supposedly 56GPH.

My tank came in today and I was able to get a first hand view of it, I have to say now that I have it in front of me I highly doubt I will be adding a fish...nothing will be comfortable in this by the time I add the live rock. Shrimp, Snails, Crabs, etc, will be fine and add enough movement in this small space. Now that I am able to look at the rear sump section I see the media section is built far better than the Fluval Spec units so I do not even need an In-Tank media basket for this the flow path is perfectly fine. I will tear the stock filter cartridge down so I can reuse the frame for just filter floss, remove the useless bio-sponge and use that space for Chemi-Pure Blue. I still need to find a heater that will fit in the back does anyone have suggestions? Preferably no longer than 8" I have an auto-set 78F heater in a different FW tank that works great but its just a Tetra heater.
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How would you stack live rock in this? Can I place it against the back wall or do I need flow behind the coral stack? I thought about getting an oversized rock and cutting the back and bottom flush/squared. Leaving some room at the top so corals are not exposed during water changes.
 

Adamwheel

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I have a Spec V for my bedroom reef.

I chose to modify the output from the internal pump and use a Cascade 500 external filter. It increases flow and volume while allowing me to add any media I'd like to the filter baskets.

I have Tunze Osmolator Nano for ATO and the external filter sits neatly next to my reservoir.

Also added Hydor Deflector on output to randomize flow.

I'd be happy to help if you have questions.

Good luck,
Adam
 

Chibils

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Teebo,

I would take a medium size piece of rock and cut the bottom flat with a hack saw. From there, take some small pieces of rock and some epoxy and stack them in a column shape until you get something you like. I know you've done freshwater stuff so you understand the basics of aquascaping. Try to create depth and shape and interest with your pillar.

I don't think any other "style" of scape would work in a tank that size.

Scott
 
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Teebo

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I would not want to use an external filter or I would have went with a different tank, but I have read that canisters are the least common/favored filtration type with SW. I am unsure if a Hydor rotating deflector will even fit in my tank, this is all the space I have to work with. I may have to drill another hole lower which I would rather do that and run the deflector than second pump for obvious reasons the only thing I would not have is redundancy which is not a big deal with such a small investment of corals.
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I will certainly be going after a flat bottom pillar shape, possibly arched against the rear wall to provide a tunnel behind the rock at the bottom.

I have seen the ChemiPure Blue Nano bags, they seem perfect you get 5 bags for $12 shipped. Clear water and N/P removal for 6 months @ $12 you can not beat that.
 

Clydezilla

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I made this set up for my daughter. I upgraded the return and added the hydor deflector but removed the deflector after about a day. It reduces the flow substantially, and doesn't spin fast enough to really make any waves. I put the original fittings back on and the increase flow works well. It would be nice to get some oscillation, as you would get with a wave maker. I will be trying this soon

Hydor Aqamai KPS Wi-Fi Controllable Wavemaker Pump
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FVBTKN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WbOlBbPABK0GP

Also we have 2 clown fish but they will eventually be moved to our 75 gallon reef. This is my first post so bear with me.

As for aqua scapes. I will be putting a magnetic shelf like this one to add real estate for coral without loosing flow behind the rock and leaving "some" room for swimming.

Oceans Wonders MAG Rock 6.0 Magnetic Coral Frag Rack Plug Holder with 6 Plugs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJ8F85/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NgOlBb7WKR3BJ

I personally am looking for a new light. There are some out there but I'm also not trying to spend $300 on a light. small footprint and full spectrum would be great bur are not easy to find for a good deal. Any suggestions?
 

Blue Spot Octopus

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Good Nano light is a Kessil A80 great for smaller tanks, AI Prime HD great for 12" cube up to 16". and Nanobox led lights they were the gold standard for Nano tank for a long while, and there are few on the used forum for sale as well.
 

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