550 Gallon: 120Lx36Wx29H + Fish Room

TylerC

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we need to go on strike for Neptune ******** need to make reagents great build bro my tank is the same dimensions
 
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Blue Tang Clan

Blue Tang Clan

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It’s making me pretty mad that I can’t choose to test only one thing. My full bottle of Reagent A is useless because Reagents B and C are too low. Throwing out a completely new Reagent A bottle seems nuts.

I’m tempted to add RODI water to the empty B and C bottles so the Trident has something to “test.”

What do you guys think could go wrong with that plan?
 

vetteguy53081

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It’s making me pretty mad that I can’t choose to test only one thing. My full bottle of Reagent A is useless because Reagents B and C are too low. Throwing out a completely new Reagent A bottle seems nuts.

I’m tempted to add RODI water to the empty B and C bottles so the Trident has something to “test.”

What do you guys think could go wrong with that plan?
You have nothing to lose.
 

Daveobrien

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I personally wouldn't do it on my Trident. Once you put in new/fresh reagents, how much will you have to use to flush out the RODI that's been in tubes/sensors/? I'd hate to use the calibration solution with the last trace of RODI still lingering. When it eventually gets flushed out and then calibration shifts and would be off.

I like what Trident does. In my case, it's been stable and reliable. I'd like to keep it stable and reliable - thus I'm not messing with it.

Just my view.
 
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Blue Tang Clan

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Jesus Christ. mad scientist laboratory?
In some ways, running a successful QT tank can be more challenging than a display, but I need to get the methodology right if I’m going to stock this tank with a ton of tangs.

I’ve done the “dump and pray” method for too many years!
 
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Blue Tang Clan

Blue Tang Clan

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  • Display Tank: standard bean-animal out
  • Refugium tank and Frag tank: I used to merge (through a tee) the two 1" drains into a 1.5" drain, but that caused issues with trapped air. It was a pretty design, but not the best for functionality. Each of those two drains is now plumbed with flexible tubing and rigid PVC - utilizing 1" drains and 1" emergency overflow drains for each tank. Both now drain into the "return" side of the sump, which means it won't go through the socks/skimmer, but the plumbing is a heck of a lot easier.
  • The red pipe with valve pointing toward the floor drain is for water changes. It gravity feeds from the Fuge tank and will let me change water at a 1" gravity rate (or less). I saw no reason to plumb a pump to get water out of the tank
  • Return lines (two of them) are plumbed using 1.5" PVC throughout. One return feeds the Fuge/frag tanks, and the other goes through a Lifegard Aquatics 120W UV sterilizer. Long-term plan is to get another one so everything that goes into the display tank gets zapped.

IMG_1359.JPG IMG_1361.JPG IMG_1362.JPG
 
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Blue Tang Clan

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Are your returns 3/4 or 1

your running 2 1.5 pressure lines to display?
Yep, by the time they make it up 6 feet of vertical, and then over either 8 feet or 21 feet (depending on the left or right nozzle) there is enough loss that having 1.5" piping made sense. I could probably have gone with 1" for the returns, but I was buying so many 1.5" plumbing fittings that it was just easier to stick with one size. Plus, I found a heck of a deal on 1.5" ball valve unions ($14/each) that are silky smooth, and not available in other sizes.

Both return pipes aren't running at full tilt. One Reef Octopus Varios 8 pump runs at 3/5 speed, and then other runs at 2/5 speed but routes through the UV sterilizer. I need to keep that return line at a specific flow rate to zap all the nasties. The other return (not through the UV) is so that I get enough turnover in the overall system.
 
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