SeahorseKeeper
Where's the mysis?
Great advice there!! I like to add dry rock to avoid some of the unwanted hitchhikers that can come in on live rock like aiptasia or evil crabs that eat fish.
Absolute newb
- Thread starter BigMike81
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Great advice there!! I like to add dry rock to avoid some of the unwanted hitchhikers that can come in on live rock like aiptasia or evil crabs that eat fish.
Naiad
Valuable Member
I would get mostly dry rock with one or two pieces of live rock to seed the rest. As for filtration a sump with extra live rock, protein skimmer and possibly a refugium for macro algae are your major players. I would research those options to see what you like best. Also start getting an idea of what fish and corals you may want. No buying yet though lol! Certain animals require special habitats such as a deep or fine sand bed. Others need a refugium for their food source. Some dig which will effect how you set up your rock. So it is a good idea to have a basic idea of what kind of animals you are setting this tank up for. Nothing sucks worse than going to get your dream fish only to learn you set up the aquarium wrong for it.
I would suggest a bubble magus curve 5 for that system. I have one and could not be more pleased. As far as dry rock being "cheaper" I bust that myth almost daily with this.
http://www.saltysupply.com/mobile/Product.aspx?id=5459
In my opinion live rock doesn't get any better then this. Its proven to provide quite the filter for nutrient export for me. 90lbs (2 boxes) will be plenty for your tank and you may have some left over you can add to your sump. You will need a good heater for this tank also. One 300w would be enough. People tend to go with 2 smaller heaters so if one sticks on it won't cook the tank. If you want to go with that instead 2 200w heaters will be a good choice. If you don't have a return pump a sicce 3.0 would be an excellent choice. High quality, and this size would fit the application well. You will need more water movement in the display than what the return would give. I would suggest using either 2 jeabo wp25 or 2 jeabo rw-8. With the sand I would suggest staying away from the oolite sugar sized sand and go with medium grade or something larger such as seaflor special grade. For your testing the API kits for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate would be good. You more than likely will only use the ammonia and nitrite.test in the first month. The nitrate kit you may end up using later, but the API would work fine and save you some money. Lighting is going to be required so you may as well have a light capable of keeping corals.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/310901236151
I have had great results with this fixture and its priced well below most other options.
When you cycle you do as previously stated. Introduce an ammonia source and wait. When the ammonia is 0 and you see a good reduction in nitrites then you will be ready to slowly start adding livestock.
I hope all of this helps. I'm sure I have left some things out (that I can't think of at three moment) but there's plenty if people here that will add to this or remind us of what I have forgotten.
Best of luck!
http://www.saltysupply.com/mobile/Product.aspx?id=5459
In my opinion live rock doesn't get any better then this. Its proven to provide quite the filter for nutrient export for me. 90lbs (2 boxes) will be plenty for your tank and you may have some left over you can add to your sump. You will need a good heater for this tank also. One 300w would be enough. People tend to go with 2 smaller heaters so if one sticks on it won't cook the tank. If you want to go with that instead 2 200w heaters will be a good choice. If you don't have a return pump a sicce 3.0 would be an excellent choice. High quality, and this size would fit the application well. You will need more water movement in the display than what the return would give. I would suggest using either 2 jeabo wp25 or 2 jeabo rw-8. With the sand I would suggest staying away from the oolite sugar sized sand and go with medium grade or something larger such as seaflor special grade. For your testing the API kits for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate would be good. You more than likely will only use the ammonia and nitrite.test in the first month. The nitrate kit you may end up using later, but the API would work fine and save you some money. Lighting is going to be required so you may as well have a light capable of keeping corals.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/310901236151
I have had great results with this fixture and its priced well below most other options.
When you cycle you do as previously stated. Introduce an ammonia source and wait. When the ammonia is 0 and you see a good reduction in nitrites then you will be ready to slowly start adding livestock.
I hope all of this helps. I'm sure I have left some things out (that I can't think of at three moment) but there's plenty if people here that will add to this or remind us of what I have forgotten.
Best of luck!
chris124
Active Member
Ok let me see if I can help. I run a little carbon in a canister filter because I like how the water gets real clear. But you don't have to because your live rock is your bio filter. I don't know if you have a lfs where you live but if you do you can get your live rock there and it needs to be live because this will add bacteria to your new tank. You can order online to. I have about 200lbs of live rock but I added it slowly over time because its expensive. As for your test kit you can go to petsmart and get the api salt water master test kit. This will let you test ammonia nitrite nitrate and ph. This is what I use. I would also recommend you get live sand because this will add more bacteria to the tank. Now to cycle the tank. First you need mix your salt water in a bucket or a 40 gallon Brute trash can that's what I use. You need to mix the water outside the tank because you don't wont your salt landing in your sand as this will make it hard to mix the water a salt. After your water is ready add your sand to the empty tank then your water then mix more water then add it. You might want to put a heater in the tank to keep the temp around 78F and a air stone or a power head to keep the water moving. It took me about a day and a half to fill my 75 gallon tank with a 20gallon sump. After the tank is filled add your rock.Now you can get your return pump going and put you heater in your sump. Now you play the waiting game. You are going to first get ammonia in the tank this comes from bacteria that died when your live rock was shipped and will help cycle the tank. Then in about a week to two weeks the ammonia will be converted to nitrite which is still toxic to fish. Then in about week or two maybe less the nitrite will be converted in to much less toxic nitrate. You will need to keep testing the water and you will see this process as it is happening. After you test the water and there is no ammonia or nitrite its time to do a 20% water change. I waited another week before adding my first fish just to be safe. I know this sounds like a lot but its not as bad as it sounds because after the tank is up and going it is supper easy. let me know if you need more help.
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BigMike81
Active Member
Thank you sooo much Chris, this seems to be the place to go to get my tank ready to rock.
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BigMike81
Active Member
75 gallon all glass tank. heavy duty wooden stand. coral life t5 light with new bulbs. hang on back refugium. hang on back seaclone 100 protein skimmer. 1250 gph power head. 2 aqueon heaters. 70 lbs aged live rock with alot of life. 50 lbs live sand. clownfish, blue damsel, 4 blue green chromis, algae Blenny, snowflake eel, cleaner shrimp, peppermint shrimp, lots of snails and grabs. over 60 mixed zoas, star polyps and mushrooms. comes with lot of extras and food. will not seperate. moving out of state, must sell. tank and stand alone was more then im asking for the setup. 400.
Is this too good to be true, or to much to take on, it just sounds too good to pass up.
Is this too good to be true, or to much to take on, it just sounds too good to pass up.
Kworker
Tang Lover
Welcome to the salty side of the hobby.
I think you have a pass for having a hippo in the 55 since you are acquiring it along with the tank. I would over time try to rehome it or if you get the bug, upgrade to a larger tank for the hippo. I am someone that would be "tang police" however, reality of it is there are hippos is far worse than a 55. For the time being it will have to do, although rehoming it immediately is preferable. But brining it to a LFS is a very large gamble and it can very well end up in a 20gal instead.
Welcome to the hobby, take your time and research. Learn from other peoples mistakes. Research before you buy, research before you do everything. Only way to minimize mistakes and regrets in this hobby.
I think you have a pass for having a hippo in the 55 since you are acquiring it along with the tank. I would over time try to rehome it or if you get the bug, upgrade to a larger tank for the hippo. I am someone that would be "tang police" however, reality of it is there are hippos is far worse than a 55. For the time being it will have to do, although rehoming it immediately is preferable. But brining it to a LFS is a very large gamble and it can very well end up in a 20gal instead.
Welcome to the hobby, take your time and research. Learn from other peoples mistakes. Research before you buy, research before you do everything. Only way to minimize mistakes and regrets in this hobby.
OP
OP
BigMike81
Active Member
Thank you sir, I am hoping to send an e-mail to set up a time to look at it.
OP
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BigMike81
Active Member
Looks like I am looking at a 75g established tank with a snowflake eel, clownfish, blue damsel, 4 blue green chromis, algae blenny, cleaner shrimp, pepperment shrimp, and cuc. It has 50lbs of live sand, 70lbs live rock, hang on back refugium, and a seaclone 100 protein skimmer. It has a 1250 power head and 2 aqueon heaters. It also has over 60 mixed zoas, star polyps, and mushrooms.
Daddio
Active Member
Good advice cymonous.
Keep it simple to start. Live rock and skimmer will do most of the work. Research before you buy things like lights. Sometimes buying the best "value" ends up costing more in the end - there are reasons some things cost a lot more than others. Get an idea of the things you want to try and keep and research what it will take to keep them alive and thriving.
If you ask specific questions in the categories on this forum, you will get great answers - but there are many ways to have a successful tank. So arm yourself with the info, research and do what makes the most sense to you (what is understandable and within your time/budget).
This is really a fun hobby and can be way more gratifying than freshwater. I am amazed by my tank everyday!
Keep it simple to start. Live rock and skimmer will do most of the work. Research before you buy things like lights. Sometimes buying the best "value" ends up costing more in the end - there are reasons some things cost a lot more than others. Get an idea of the things you want to try and keep and research what it will take to keep them alive and thriving.
If you ask specific questions in the categories on this forum, you will get great answers - but there are many ways to have a successful tank. So arm yourself with the info, research and do what makes the most sense to you (what is understandable and within your time/budget).
This is really a fun hobby and can be way more gratifying than freshwater. I am amazed by my tank everyday!
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