Best way to pull extremely high phosphates

Sharkbait19

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Hello,
For quite some time now, I’ve been dealing with high phosphates (above any readable level on the salifert test kit). This is due to me, for the longest time, using my well water which has major phosphate issues. I’ve always noticed effects when it came to algae, coral growth, etc., but the major struggles didn’t start until about a year and a half ago.
As time moved forwards, stony corals became more and more difficult to keep (though, oddly enough, my anemone fairs just fine). Inverts developed molting issues, and I could never keep a shrimp longer than a month or two. So I decided to take action, starting with the removal of stony corals and placing them into a quarantine system. For a while, the conditions of the quarantine tank were the same as the display tank, and yet corals always thrived in this environment when compared to the display. My best guess is the lack of rocks or sand to absorb phosphates.
Whenever I attempt to move corals back into the main display, within 24 hours they appear at the brink of death. Sometimes when I move them, the corals happen to do fine in the display tank for a few weeks, then react poorly to any water change that I perform. That led me to begin switching to RODI water in my water changes, with hopes that this would rectify the phosphates eventually.
Nonetheless, water changes had similar results. After doing research about phosphates in fish tanks, I discovered that it tends to be retained in rocks and the sand, and that it moves back into the water to reach equilibrium whenever a water change is performed. This leaves me with two options:
The first option seems a bit overkill, and that is to pull out rocks, siphon sand, and do a near 100% water change using RODI water (basically a complete do-over of the system). The biggest fear is that this will mess with my anemone and other sensitive creatures. I’ve also read that it can still leach out of the rocks, unlike nitrates, and render the process useless.
The second option is to continue my current course of frequent small(ish) water changes and phosguard. Hopefully over time phosphates will lower and I can return corals to the tank. The problem here is that I don’t think the quarantine system can hold many of my harder SPS. This can probably be fixed, though.
I was hoping to hear the thoughts of some more experienced and knowledgeable reef keepers. Which option should I go with? Are there any other things that I can do to solve this problem? Could there be some other factor that causes my corals to behave this way?
Here are some before and after pictures of how the corals have been acting under phosphates:
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MERKEY

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Sorry to hear of your troubles.

Definitely keep using rodi.

Longterm use of phosgaurd can cause it to leach alluminum. I'd send off an icp to get a good analysis of your water.
 
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Sharkbait19

Sharkbait19

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Have not tried chemipure yet - will have to add it to the list.
Definitely don’t want to bottom out - last thing I want is to trade phosphate for dinos.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Chemipure elite or blue will also get you down. Be careful not to bottom it out though it’s easy to do.

Chemipure Blue won't bind phosphate directly from seawater (don't be misled by trickily worded claims by the manufacturer that does not distinguish fresh from salt water effects). It will bind organics that may reduce phosphate slowly by removign them before they are broken down by organisms.

The chemipure elite has GFO in it, which can bind phospahte.

Of course, using GFO itself is also a fine plan, as can be lanthanum (cheapest).
 

FishTruck

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Lanthanum dosing is really pretty easy, just get an IV bag and calculate the dose to drop your PO4 to target (say .1 or .05). Dose it weekly or biweekly by dripping it into a filter sock running at high flow. Making sure you can accurately measure phosphates is important though - so you don't bottom them out.

You phosphates will then bounce back up in a few days to a week (from the rocks), so you will need to hit it again and again with the lanthanum (once or twice per week). Eventually, the bounce backs will be slower and not as high and you know you are winning the battle, but, expect it to take weeks or months.

I have been using Brightwell Phosphate-E remover (Which I think is lanthanum) in this way, and it drops the phosphate predictably if you follow the dosing instructions.
 

Rmckoy

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I have always went with rowaphos for a hosohate remover . I believe the amount I used was 1tbs for every 10 gal in a phosban reactor ( but barely any flow going through it .
not even a tumble

keep a eye on phosphates though they will drop fast .

other contributing factors are foods offered .
some foods are extremely high in phosphates
 

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