Clear hair. Help!

[Subbedout]

My tank is just over a year old. I've noticed a clear-white "hair" growing all over my rocks and along the back wall of the tank. It's stuck on and won't come off by pulling on it or using siphon hose during water changes. Sand is getting caught in it from my wrasses spitting sand, which makes my rocks ugly.

Any idea what it is - bacteria, algae, something worse? How do I get rid of it?

Thanks in advance!

 

[cloak]

Chrysophytes? (Silicate based)

 

[Subbedout]

Chrysophytes? (Silicate based)

How does a trank increase in silicates?

 

[cloak]

What kind of water are you using?

 

[Subbedout]

What kind of water are you using?

BRS 5 stage RODI system I bought on Black Friday.

 

[cloak]

Maybe the "media" is spent? 7+ months, no?

 

[Travis Stewart]

I always wait these things out and add a couple more to my CUC. Do a water change

 

[Travis Stewart]

And if you’re not, turkey baste rocks before/during WC.

 

[hyprc]

This looks too familiar. Grab some trochus snails

 

[brandon429]

There isn't another method I'd consider for this invasion: modeling

You've done basic hand removal to prevent huge amounts of mass, that helps

Next step is this: learn the minium control needed on test rocks, then upscale, never subject your whole tank for a test of variables we don't know how well are received my opinion

Two rocks taken out: one is surgically knife scraped clean, picked, etched, scored as a dentist would rasp plaque, roughly, precision, dig, work around coralline (don't scrape it) and keep rinsing in saltwater. Soon you'll have a totally invader clean rock because you knifed it that way. Then, when clean, run peroxide as target drops across the cleaned surface, let sit one minute, rinse put test rock 1 back in

Test rock two
Simply pour or dropper peroxide onto the target, no scraping, it will wick within the fronds, scrape nothing, invader self protective mass left in place.

Put back. Do whatever you'd like to do to the whole tank we watch what two varying elements of amplified work w yield. It doesn't mean you have to upscale any of it, alternate micro testing is avail. These are minimum demonstrable kill models, a truly sick technique for learning and responding to invader dynamics

 

[Subbedout]

It's the original media... how long does DI resin last?

Maybe the "media" is spent? 7+ months, no?

 

[Subbedout]

Just changed water this morning and used turkey baster to blow off rocks. Nothing budged :-/

And if you’re not, turkey baste rocks before/during WC.

 

[DSC reef]

It's the original media... how long does DI resin last?

Typically there's a TDS meter after the DI resin canister. If that ever read more than zero I'd change resin.

 

[brandon429]

That anchored nature... resistant to rinsing. Quite the respectable adaptation for a high energy reef crest organism

That also covers additional supports: on site feeding. Adhered mops are literally catch sites for localized nutrient holdings/release

I've learned to see invaders as import caused

Not nutrient caused

We brought in an assertive dna by not quarantining, and gave ground when happenstance didn't produce a passive invader. That's why our method removes all mass as if we were the intended reef organism in place (balanced)


The thing missing from invaded tanks is grazing, and clean sandbeds typically. Once those are restored even if by unnatural means there will be no more invasion. Having to do this big job and model this and that is a result of quarantine error and vital space command error. Rasping is exactly the opposite condition.

Your invader indicates tank health and not tank imbalance, you're able to produce delicate filter feeders en masse

Turn that into a dendronepthea scaped field, forced into compliance/ideal

 

[Subbedout]

Typically there's a TDS meter after the DI resin canister. If that ever read more than zero I'd change resin.

Ah, now that you mention it, it reads 4 after the DI stage. That's not good, huh?

 

[DSC reef]

Ah, now that you mention it, it reads 4 after the DI stage. That's not good, huh?

It's not terrible but I'd go ahead and change all your filters besides the membrane. Once the TDS showed me 1 I'd change the resin. Every couple months I'd change the pre filter and carbon block as well since we registered 500+ TDS from tap water.

 

[Subbedout]

Just ordered more DI resin from BRS. I only make 30 gallon per month for water changes. 180 gallons since December...I thought I'd get more mileage before needing to change resin.

Thanks!

It's not terrible but I'd go ahead and change all your filters besides the membrane. Once the TDS showed me 1 I'd change the resin. Every couple months I'd change the pre filter and carbon block as well since we registered 500+ TDS from tap water.