Coral QT tank / How to / Advice ?

[Angel_V_the_reefer]

Hey R2R !
I’ve recently been interested in setting up a Coral QT tank in order to ensure I don’t introduce any pest or unwanted algae in my new set up !
I currently have a 20 gallon that has been overran by multiple algae’s : bubble algae , turf algae, bryopsis, and some sort of slime.
many of these algae’s I have never had in my year of having my tank set up, until I bought some zoa frags from a frag swap where little did I know, the frags were home to many of these algae’s.
i am planning on moving to a desk top Nuvo 10 where I plan on keeping mainly Euphyllia.
i currently have 10 frags of hammers that are not looking too hot, after I attempted to fight bryopsis with Fluconazole (had no luck for more than a month).
im hoping that with a QT tank I am able to prevent any pest/algae from being introduced to my new DT tank.
Would I need to cycle this tank in order to start the coral qt ? How would I go about keeping steady levels of nitrates and phosphates ? How would I prevent nutrient build up from coral feeding ?
thank you guys and I hope I can get some great advice !

 

[davidcalgary29]

You actually don't need to cycle a quarantine frag tank before placing corals in one -- many people have commented that it's a standard practice in trade shows to set up tanks for the duration of the show, and then dismantle them. I would get a Seachem ammonia badge, and be prepared with Prime (and enough water for a quick change), but this doesn't have to be an issue at all. Note that your coral may not thrive in this setup, but they shouldn't die, either.

You'll likely be able to control your nutrients if you keep a bare-bottomed tank and do regular water changes. I'd keep an indicator coral frag in there if you don't have nitrate or phosphate test kits: duncan corals and stylocoeniella are great for this. The first sign of skyrocketing nitrates I noticed was when my stylocoeniella turned gray.

Do you need to feed your coral at all? Are you planning to stock NPS corals?

 

[Angel_V_the_reefer]

You actually don't need to cycle a quarantine frag tank before placing corals in one -- many people have commented that it's a standard practice in trade shows to set up tanks for the duration of the show, and then dismantle them. I would get a Seachem ammonia badge, and be prepared with Prime (and enough water for a quick change), but this doesn't have to be an issue at all. Note that your coral may not thrive in this setup, but they shouldn't die, either.

You'll likely be able to control your nutrients if you keep a bare-bottomed tank and do regular water changes. I'd keep an indicator coral frag in there if you don't have nitrate or phosphate test kits: duncan corals and stylocoeniella are great for this. The first sign of skyrocketing nitrates I noticed was when my stylocoeniella turned gray.

Do you need to feed your coral at all? Are you planning to stock NPS corals?

Hey !
No i only have Euphyllias and plan to keep only Euphyllias ! I have all the test kits I need, I have the Hanna checker phosphate as well !
my Qt will for sure be a bare bottom, I believe that I should be fine with dosing nutrients and keeping track of my levels weekly as far as my Alk, Cal, and Mag, along with All the other parameters !
no NPS coral !

 

[Eternitybc]

Semi related. I also added Corals to my tank that were incredibly cheap, but Infested with bubble algae. I did a peroxide dip and seemingly killed it all, and the corals are recovering, but can’t for the life of me find the lifecycle of bubble algae. Is a 6 week quarantine long enough to ensure the spores were all killed or do I need to wait longer? Google is failing me here