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Should I get the 25 reagents for $19 or just get the AF mag test kit for about the same price but you get more tests
I mainly keep lps and just want to keep my mag as stable as possible. My torches in particular always seem to longer polyp extension after a water change and before the next water change the polyps seem be shorter. I bought the Hanna mag tester but all my test read 1800 flashing meaning it’s above that which wasn’t true so I just wanted to know if the reagent got updated.I would not even bother testing Magnesium.
Why do you think you need to?
Just say NO to magnesium testing: RMM is born
OK, this thread has been many years in the making, and I'm posting it here since folks in the chem forum are probably already tired of all the threads relating to problematic magnesium testing. I'm going to propose a method, let's call it the Randy Magnesium Method, or RMM for short. All good...www.reef2reef.com
No worries.I mainly keep lps and just want to keep my mag as stable as possible. My torches in particular always seem to longer polyp extension after a water change and before the next water change the polyps seem be shorter. I bought the Hanna mag tester but all my test read 1800 flashing meaning it’s above that which wasn’t true so I just wanted to know if the reagent got updated.
I appreciate the insight! Maybe I’ll just stick to testing dkh.No worries.
Magnesium is stable in a reef tank - it is over 1300 ppm in seawater and it takes a major drop in salinity to measurably decrease it.
Consumption by any coral is minimal, less than 5% of Calcium consumption.
When you measure Mg, the only difference you are likely to see is test error, no matter which test kit you use.
ICP is the only method that provides reliable results - you may like to read the above thread before potentially wasting money that you could spend on coral.