Dino ID

[AyoItsRocco]

So I believe I'm currently having a decent size Dino bloom in my tank. I don't think it's Diatoms because after using the Turkey baster, the algae is still stuck onto the rock, its definitely not dusty but more of a slimey type algae.

No Nitrites, No Ammonia, and Nitrates are around 5 - 10 ppm with a API test kit.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Alexraptor]

That does look like a Dino bloom, but a microscope photo is required for an actual ID, preferrably around 400x magnification or higher.

 

[AyoItsRocco]

That does look like a Dino bloom, but a microscope photo is required for an actual ID, preferrably around 400x magnification or higher.

Unfortunately I have no way of doing that since I dont currently own a Microscope, but from what I've read, it definitely has the characters of Dino's

 

[vetteguy53081]

Microscope is most accurate id but I understand not everyone has access to one. In appearance, may very well be the start, Often when low phosphate and nitrate are present it can be an indicator, however when we see zero readings, automatically we assume this is the cause but by the time you see zero numbers, its because the dino has consumed the po4 and no3 and are multiplying and in turn many dose no3 and po4 to bring numbers up not realizing they are feeding these flagellates even more.
Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure and its important though to identify the type of dino for most effective battle.
If you are confident its dine, No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them

 

[AyoItsRocco]

Microscope is most accurate id but I understand not everyone has access to one. In appearance, may very well be the start, Often when low phosphate and nitrate are present it can be an indicator, however when we see zero readings, automatically we assume this is the cause but by the time you see zero numbers, its because the dino has consumed the po4 and no3 and are multiplying and in turn many dose no3 and po4 to bring numbers up not realizing they are feeding these flagellates even more.
Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure and its important though to identify the type of dino for most effective battle.
If you are confident its dine, No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them

Good to know for sure, The only corals I have are some zoas and a mushroom in the nano, so I think that cutting the light should do fine, other than that, what would you recommend?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Good to know for sure, The only corals I have are some zoas and a mushroom in the nano, so I think that cutting the light should do fine, other than that, what would you recommend?

Add the bacteria and peroxide as mentioned and empty skimmer cup daily
As this is based on pics and visual, it will also address cyano and diatoms

 

[AyoItsRocco]

Update*

Went to the LFS and talked to them and they took a sample of the algae under a microscope for me and it turns out that its indeed a strain of Diatoms, and its just an imbalance oin the tank that I gotta test for . Thanks for the useful information for sure, it was much appreciated!