Dino ID

ndizzle

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Is someone able to assist with Dino ID?

I do believe I have Dinos, PHOS and Nitrate at 0. If I suck them out, they don’t get caught in filter and reconnect themselves in the bucket.

I pulled some out and viewed under a microscope, but didn’t see a lot of movement from them, but they look similar to pictures I’ve seen.

Any help would be great!
Thanks!

IMG_3043.jpeg IMG_3042.jpeg
 

Dan_P

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Is someone able to assist with Dino ID?

I do believe I have Dinos, PHOS and Nitrate at 0. If I suck them out, they don’t get caught in filter and reconnect themselves in the bucket.

I pulled some out and viewed under a microscope, but didn’t see a lot of movement from them, but they look similar to pictures I’ve seen.

Any help would be great!
Thanks!

IMG_3043.jpeg IMG_3042.jpeg
Pictures are not focused enough for an ID, but Google Prorocentrum or Amphidinium and see if either looks like yours.
 

DDenny

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Zooming in on the picture I would be leaning more to Prorocentrum. If it is Prorocentrum then they are pretty toxic they go into the water at night so a UV is the best bet at trying to defeat them. Need to raise PO4 and NO3 so you get some competition from diatoms and other bacteria to out compete them.
 
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ndizzle

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Thanks for all the replies. I agree on the Prorocentrum call out. I Do not have a UV but this’ll probably be the final trigger for me to get one.

It sucks to see my tank in bad shape from this, but every set back is a chance to learn, grow, and improve!
 

DO YOU USE A PAR METER WHEN PLACING NEW CORAL IN YOUR TANK?

  • Yes! I think it's important for the longterm health/growth of my coral.

    Votes: 5 7.1%
  • Yes, but I don't find that it is necessary all the time.

    Votes: 16 22.9%
  • Not currently, but I would like to.

    Votes: 31 44.3%
  • No. I don't measure PAR and my corals are still healthy/growing.

    Votes: 14 20.0%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 4 5.7%
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