Every coral I buy dies...please help

[Alanc425]

Cuprisorb will be quicker and more efficient IF it does end up being copper....we can do carbon too, its cheap and absorbs almost everything, you can use it down the line as well to keep your water sparkling clean.

But I would just hold off on it for now until we check the poly pad.

 

[FatherPrime3]

ahhh gotcha. I just bought a poly filter. Hopefully this will give me some answers...

 

[Julian Sprung]

I got sucked into this thread, curious about how others would answer the question. This tank is a column tank, so it is not likely that the light is too bright. Water parameters, assuming they are accurately measured, are not the issue. Temp is fine, and hermit crabs are fine. No-one has suggested it, but my bet is that the hobbyist is anxious and does not know what he is looking at. So, the claims "corals are dying" are highly exaggerated. One zoanthid frag died, which can happen... zoopox anyone? The "dying" green star polyp may simply be star polyp closing up, which it can do for extended periods without dying, for no particular reason, or when something has changed (like being moved!). Purple sclerites falling off or parts of the purple mat falling apart are not always a sign that the colony is dying. Did the entire frag dissolve? The alkalinity got bumped up, too high by the way... that would likely drop the calcium level even lower. It was just about balanced at the start, but now? In any case I'm sure that the calcium and alkalinity were not causing any issue, as there probably was no issue at all to begin with. At this point adding calcium chloride to bring the calcium level up to about 420 and letting the alkalinity fall where it may would be a good idea. Using a metals adsorber as advised would not hurt, but likely won't produce any new finding... the hermit crabs would probably be suffering if copper was an issue, and they are not.

Additional points... No-one has commented on the salinity at the store versus this tank. The salinity in this tank is full strength.. at the store it is likely to be much less. The hobbyist did acclimate the frags, sort of, but the difference could produce a shutdown response that could last a while. The other item not clarified... the dip. How was it done? In water from the aquarium? water from the store, or? How long a duration for the dip?

 

[nervousmonkey]

Can't argue with the master... +1

 

[Russ265]

I got sucked into this thread, curious about how others would answer the question. This tank is a column tank, so it is not likely that the light is too bright. Water parameters, assuming they are accurately measured, are not the issue. Temp is fine, and hermit crabs are fine. No-one has suggested it, but my bet is that the hobbyist is anxious and does not know what he is looking at. So, the claims "corals are dying" are highly exaggerated. One zoanthid frag died, which can happen... zoopox anyone? The "dying" green star polyp may simply be star polyp closing up, which it can do for extended periods without dying, for no particular reason, or when something has changed (like being moved!). Purple sclerites falling off or parts of the purple mat falling apart are not always a sign that the colony is dying. Did the entire frag dissolve? The alkalinity got bumped up, too high by the way... that would likely drop the calcium level even lower. It was just about balanced at the start, but now? In any case I'm sure that the calcium and alkalinity were not causing any issue, as there probably was no issue at all to begin with. At this point adding calcium chloride to bring the calcium level up to about 420 and letting the alkalinity fall where it may would be a good idea. Using a metals adsorber as advised would not hurt, but likely won't produce any new finding... the hermit crabs would probably be suffering if copper was an issue, and they are not.

Additional points... No-one has commented on the salinity at the store versus this tank. The salinity in this tank is full strength.. at the store it is likely to be much less. The hobbyist did acclimate the frags, sort of, but the difference could produce a shutdown response that could last a while. The other item not clarified... the dip. How was it done? In water from the aquarium? water from the store, or? How long a duration for the dip?

think you missed the bottom of page 1. also the next couple responses after.

anyway. its good that someone else is in agreement.
i like that copper was eliminated due to crabs being around. while it doesnt hurt to run whatever copper remover, it wont solve his issue.

his alk was 6 and his calcium was 365 after fresh made water. unless the salt is laced with chinese lead, i doubt the salinity is right.

also...

correcting alk and then correcting calcium is a bad idea imo. if you correct too fast you will get bad readings. especially when you are messing with 40-50+ ppm swings. at that kind of discrepency i wouldnt continue playing with fire.

ill go back to this again....

50% wc and get a quality refractometer or if you have an instant ocean hydrometer, aim at 1.023 @ 77-78 f. you will be close enough to have gsp.

i wouldnt try fixing phantoms when a water change is all that is required to eliminate a ton of guesses made here today.

good luck

 

[FatherPrime3]

I got sucked into this thread, curious about how others would answer the question. This tank is a column tank, so it is not likely that the light is too bright. Water parameters, assuming they are accurately measured, are not the issue. Temp is fine, and hermit crabs are fine. No-one has suggested it, but my bet is that the hobbyist is anxious and does not know what he is looking at. So, the claims "corals are dying" are highly exaggerated. One zoanthid frag died, which can happen... zoopox anyone? The "dying" green star polyp may simply be star polyp closing up, which it can do for extended periods without dying, for no particular reason, or when something has changed (like being moved!). Purple sclerites falling off or parts of the purple mat falling apart are not always a sign that the colony is dying. Did the entire frag dissolve? The alkalinity got bumped up, too high by the way... that would likely drop the calcium level even lower. It was just about balanced at the start, but now? In any case I'm sure that the calcium and alkalinity were not causing any issue, as there probably was no issue at all to begin with. At this point adding calcium chloride to bring the calcium level up to about 420 and letting the alkalinity fall where it may would be a good idea. Using a metals adsorber as advised would not hurt, but likely won't produce any new finding... the hermit crabs would probably be suffering if copper was an issue, and they are not.

Additional points... No-one has commented on the salinity at the store versus this tank. The salinity in this tank is full strength.. at the store it is likely to be much less. The hobbyist did acclimate the frags, sort of, but the difference could produce a shutdown response that could last a while. The other item not clarified... the dip. How was it done? In water from the aquarium? water from the store, or? How long a duration for the dip?

The first zoanthid literally melted away into the water and nothing was left but the rock it was on, and the GSP both had the purple mat disentegrate away after I tried moving them a week later. For the dip, I once did it with store water and the next frag was done with my tank water.

 

[FatherPrime3]

My hermit crabs seem really lethargic as well. I only have 3 left as the other 3 or 4 I had have died. Also had snails that died the first couple of days I had them. That is why I am leaning towards copper.

 

[rock_lobster]

well 2months is a little soon after cycling I would wait at least 4months post cycling to add coral. You could start with fish at 2 months, check paramaters once every 3 days for the next 2 months then if completely stable start adding coral. You dont want to add coral to a tank that is shifting around daily on parameters whatever they may be. Coral can live in a wide variety of parameters. Its the change that kills them. Must be kept very stable.

 

[Scott Chitwood]

I didn't read the whole article but what kind of filtration are you using? And what are your PH levels? Ph levels in a newly established tank are crucial...... I am leaning towards PH swings, caused by light cycle, or any other of the 1000 different reasons. Not sure how copper got introduced into your tank to start with. Is this a new tank or used?

 

[Lninwa]

Thats one thing that sucks is that the reef store near me uses API and another store won't even test my water they said :/ I will probably just have to buy new tests myself. I cycled the tank with bio spira and 1 clownfish (don't hate me). Had an initial ammonia spike and all that but everything was down within a few days.

Nothing wrong in my mind for using a good product to speed up cycling a tank. I will be doing the same when I set up my new tank. I've used Dr Tims nitrifying bacteria before so will use it again.

 

[nervousmonkey]

i like that copper was eliminated due to crabs being around. while it doesnt hurt to run whatever copper remover, it wont solve his issue.

FWIW, my copper infested tank had hermit crabs running around that radioactive tank like it was 1999.... Regular crabs didn't make it, like emerald, but hermits are like roaches...

 

[Russ265]

FWIW, my copper infested tank had hermit crabs running around that radioactive tank like it was 1999.... Regular crabs didn't make it, like emerald, but hermits are like roaches...

thanks for sharing.

 

[FatherPrime3]

After a week of running polyfilter, it has turned a blueish green. So looks like copper is the culprit.

 

[Russ265]

After a week of running polyfilter, it has turned a blueish green. So looks like copper is the culprit.

water supply?

 

[FatherPrime3]

I hope not....I use RODI so idk how that would happen

 

[Alanc425]

Sorry to hear but I'm glad we were right and found it pretty quick. If you use RODI, sounds like the used tank was the problem after all? I would go buy 1-2 baggies of cuprisorb, maybe even carbon and run it through before adding any more corals or inverts. Retry polyfilter in a week

 

[FatherPrime3]

Once I'm back in town that's definitely the plan