Fish are dying

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McKendree

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What are the different days for? Isn’t 76 for ich? I’m quite sure it wasn’t Ich because the fish died so fast and also zero white spots. I don’t think ich kills 5 different fish within days. How long is velvet fallowing?
 

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What are the different days for? Isn’t 76 for ich? I’m quite sure it wasn’t Ich because the fish died so fast and also zero white spots. I don’t think ich kills 5 different fish within days. How long is velvet fallowing?
The past fallow for diseases was 76 days now certain diseases the minimum suggested is 45 days. I did 80 days for my brook when tank was new. Just depends on your assessment of what's in your tank. Longer is better otherwise new fish may end up dying too. Assuming your tank parameters are within normal ranges.
 
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The past fallow for diseases was 76 days now certain diseases the minimum suggested is 45 days. I did 80 days for my brook when tank was new. Just depends on your assessment of what's in your tank. Longer is better otherwise new fish may end up dying too. Assuming your tank parameters are within normal ranges.
Trying to figure out what to do with my YW Goby for 80 days. I bought a 10 gallon today for QT but I don’t know how I can keep him alive that long without a cycled tank.
 

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Trying to figure out what to do with my YW Goby for 80 days. I bought a 10 gallon today for QT but I don’t know how I can keep him alive that long without a cycled tank.
Put a piece of live ocean rock in the QT. Add a little ammonia and see if it goes to zero in 24 hours
 
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Put a piece of live ocean rock in the QT. Add a little ammonia and see if it goes to zero in 24 hours
But doesn’t rock soak up copper for treatment and then leach it later giving you false readings? I’ve read that QT tanks should be rock and sandless?
 

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But doesn’t rock soak up copper for treatment and then leach it later giving you false readings? I’ve read that QT tanks should be rock and sandless?
It can but it's either that or some of your existing tank media to fast track the cycle
 

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Sounds like when I first got my tank and set it up and it wasn’t properly cycled(didn’t really give it time or know what I was doing. Too much information too quick). Lost some clownfish and pajama cardinals and my fox face survived. Then the tank uglies happened and some green algae. Hopefully you find the solution and have no more issues.
 
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Sounds like when I first got my tank and set it up and it wasn’t properly cycled(didn’t really give it time or know what I was doing. Too much information too quick). Lost some clownfish and pajama cardinals and my fox face survived. Then the tank uglies happened and some green algae. Hopefully you find the solution and have no more issues.
Thanks friend. Yeah I’ve not seen any green algae yet so that’s making me question the cycling. I have a hang on seachem ammonia checker badge on the tank now. I’ve not been able to get it to read any ammonia with test kits.
 

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Thanks friend. Yeah I’ve not seen any green algae yet so that’s making me question the cycling. I have a hang on seachem ammonia checker badge on the tank now. I’ve not been able to get it to read any ammonia with test kits.
Diatoms is the first algae to enter the tank typically unless it's bare bottom
 

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Yes, I appreciate the response. I bought a 10 gallon today which will be my dedicated QT tank. Going to try the BRS 80/20 method that doesn’t require a cycled tank.

I agree with you. None of the comments about tank cycling make any sense to me with 100% of my invertebrates doing just fine while all except 1 fish have died. This has to be a disease issue. But none of the bodies of the fish showed any signs of anything. Even the Bangaii died fat and eating and swimming around 12 hours before.
The only water quality issue that can kill fish but not most invertebrates is overnight low oxygen issues (this will kill fish and shrimp). The basic cause for this is lack of aeration. Water circulation along isn’t sufficient, you need to break the water surface for proper gas exchange. I’ve even seen cases where a HOB added enough surface agitation until one time when the tank is filled a bit too high and the bubbles cut off and the fish die that night.

Be aware that the 80 20 method is pretty light on fluke control, and that can be an issue with many fish (but didn’t cause your issues here).
 

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What are the different days for? Isn’t 76 for ich? I’m quite sure it wasn’t Ich because the fish died so fast and also zero white spots. I don’t think ich kills 5 different fish within days. How long is velvet fallowing?
Its 6-8 weeks (45-60 days). 76 days is a very old rule as life cycles are now more understood for many parasites
 
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The only water quality issue that can kill fish but not most invertebrates is overnight low oxygen issues (this will kill fish and shrimp). The basic cause for this is lack of aeration. Water circulation along isn’t sufficient, you need to break the water surface for proper gas exchange. I’ve even seen cases where a HOB added enough surface agitation until one time when the tank is filled a bit too high and the bubbles cut off and the fish die that night.

Be aware that the 80 20 method is pretty light on fluke control, and that can be an issue with many fish (but didn’t cause your issues here).
Is there a way to test oxygenation? My HOB actively pushes air bubbles from the flow into the tank so I don’t believe that’s the issue but I do have a glass lid which I have heard can cause issues with aeration. I took both of the back plastic parts of the glass lids off to fit the HOB and give more air flow.
 

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Is there a way to test oxygenation? My HOB actively pushes air bubbles from the flow into the tank so I don’t believe that’s the issue but I do have a glass lid which I have heard can cause issues with aeration. I took both of the back plastic parts of the glass lids off to fit the HOB and give more air flow.
Yes - the glass lid can cause real issues. There are oxygen meters, but cost thousands. You can sometimes infer low oxygen/high carbon dioxide if the tank has a low pH in the morning and a higher pH in the afternoon.

It really is cheap insurance to buy a small air pump and air stone.
 

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Is there a way to test oxygenation? My HOB actively pushes air bubbles from the flow into the tank so I don’t believe that’s the issue but I do have a glass lid which I have heard can cause issues with aeration. I took both of the back plastic parts of the glass lids off to fit the HOB and give more air flow.
If you have a good visible surface ripple then your fine. That HOB won't do this
 

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Thanks friend. Yeah I’ve not seen any green algae yet so that’s making me question the cycling. I have a hang on seachem ammonia checker badge on the tank now. I’ve not been able to get it to read any ammonia with test kits.
I don't think there are any strict rules about green algae vs cycling. I believe your ammonia checker badge - esp if verified
 

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Just bring some tank water to your local fish store. Most stores will help you test for free. They will let you know if the water quality is good or not. For fish to die within 12-24 hrs, very good chance, tank ecosystem not ready yet. Fish getting diseases should still live a couple days. That goby might just be able to tolerate the ammonia spike, while other new fish simply cannot adjust to the new water with ammonia spike.
 
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Yes - the glass lid can cause real issues. There are oxygen meters, but cost thousands. You can sometimes infer low oxygen/high carbon dioxide if the tank has a low pH in the morning and a higher pH in the afternoon.

It really is cheap insurance to buy a small air pump and air stone.
Also I have 2 800GPH wavemakers. One is rippling the top of the water 24/7.
 

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