Help Wiring a Solenoid valve for CO2 Scrubber Control

[Tuna Melt]

First let me say I'm a total novice in the electrical realm... So I recently bought a C02 scrubber which I plumbed into my skimmer to help maintain an elevated PH. When I run it 24x7 my PH is a bit too high (8.4 all day and even hits 8.5 for a few hours). I have a Milwaukee PH controller (https://milwaukeeinstruments.com/ph-controller/) that I'd like to hook up to the scrubber line so the skimmer only draws from the C02 scrubber when the PH drops to 8.2 and draw's ambient air when 8.3 or above. To do this properly it needs too be hooked up to a three-way solenoid. The best I can find is this one (https://www.electricsolenoidvalves....b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e)

The first question is would the fact that its brass be a concern? I assume not since its not actually in the water but I want to be sure, a large part of my tanks gas exchange will run through this so worth double checking.

The second is how do I actually wire this. The controller has the below Specs. My understanding which may be wrong is the 12vdc Power Supply powers the whole controller, and the Relay is driven by the Power Drivers below (i.e. 115vac).


Is wiring it as simple as buying a 115v power supply and matching red to red, black to black, and green to green?


I worry because I tried to wire this solenoid https://www.electricsolenoidvalves.com/1-4-12v-dc-electric-plastic-solenoid-valve/ with this power supply and it caused solenoid to get quite hot quite fast. I'm not sure why and now I have negative confidence in wiring these things!

Thanks!

 

[Tuna Melt]

Bump! Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[yury88]

Hi.
Solenoids all going very hot.
And mostly this is ok for them.

The reason for that because they need high currect for fast switching.

But if you want you can add electronic circuit that will lower Voltage after solenoid is opened. Schemes are little complicated, but I'll try to have a look for simple one for you.

 

[yury88]

Or you can buy some ready to go solution: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003435555312.html?spm=a2g0n.productlist.0.0.58cb6ad4MSlBBr&browser_id=3043391d93e94a72a6b19e109419112d&aff_trace_key=0f71d0bd20cf435c8cc2a1de9a876ff5-1709313263416-07890-_Dc7UF3b&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=igjshkyleucacuxp18ec5fc936bd7b80522e6bc08a&pdp_npi=4@dis!PHP!456.64!456.64!!!7.88!7.88!@2103252e17127186481534081eb573!12000025777517050!sea!PH!0!AB&algo_pvid=a436b033-e2ef-4a15-a1a7-bfdc71ac6289

 

[oreo54]

Bump! Anyone have any thoughts?

Yea that that isn't the right way to do this really.
you need a controller with 2 outputs and 2 2 way solenoids.

The Milwaukee will only turn on at 8.2. Then shut off above 8.2.
There are process controllers that do this but are normally very expensive.
It would be cheaper to get 2 Milwaukee (or like) units.
The 3 way will then just continuously add outside air regardless if pH is 8.21 8.25 9 ect ect..
JUST an example

Real-Time pH Process Modeling & Control Simulation Software

and

https://www.coleparmer.in/tech-article/ph-orp-control-systems-selection-guide

Actually this may work..Add 2 solenoids.. set range

PINPOINT® pH Controller 120VAC​

$192.00
$192.00

Search Amazon

This device will automate up to 2 electrical devices for an aquaculture system or 2 separate pumps for a hydroponic system. This controller has the ability to control pH in both a downward and upward direction. Select your own setpoint and any range of acceptable pH around this setpoint. This full featured controller will handle up to 3.0 amps at 120 VAC. A 230 VAC version is also available. Comes complete with PINPOINT pH electrode with 10 foot cable, Pre-mixed High Precision Calibration Fluids, Probe Storage Bottle and Adjusting Screwdriver.

 

[Tuna Melt]

Yea that that isn't the right way to do this really.
you need a controller with 2 outputs and 2 2 way solenoids.

The Milwaukee will only turn on at 8.2. Then shut off above 8.2.
There are process controllers that do this but are normally very expensive.
It would be cheaper to get 2 Milwaukee (or like) units.
The 3 way will then just continuously add outside air regardless if pH is 8.21 8.25 9 ect ect..
JUST an example

Real-Time pH Process Modeling & Control Simulation Software

and

https://www.coleparmer.in/tech-article/ph-orp-control-systems-selection-guide

Actually this may work..Add 2 solenoids.. set range

PINPOINT® pH Controller 120VAC​

$192.00
$192.00

Search Amazon

Sorry if I'm being obtuse, but why is this necessary if using a three way solenoid? I think the solenoid switches between two stages, see below:

If PH is below 8.3, it will flick on, and draw from the Co2 scrubber (the first diagram). Once it hits 8.3 it will flick off and draw ambient air.

Maybe I'm missing something

Thanks!

 

[oreo54]

Sorry if I'm being obtuse, but why is this necessary if using a three way solenoid? I think the solenoid switches between two stages, see below:

If PH is below 8.3, it will flick on, and draw from the Co2 scrubber (the first diagram). Once it hits 8.3 it will flick off and draw ambient air.

Maybe I'm missing something

Thanks!

No that's correct. it will draw ambient air but there is no "control" It can't shut off both..its one or the other.
Say your low point is 8.3 and your high point is 8.7.
And the scrubber gets activated shifting the pH to above 8.3. So scrubbers off line but ambient is entering..continuously. So fine.. may never get to 8.7 because of atm CO2 entering the system.

But you aren't really controlling the CO2.
Guess its a matter of how one defines control.

Easiest to think of this in terms of acid/base control..
One adds base to combat low pH another adds acid to combat high pH.

Adds base below 8.3 then adds acid when above 8.7.. Adds nothing between 8.3 and 8.7.


You don't have a nothing position..
Why add air when you need nothing?

 

[Tuna Melt]

No that's correct. it will draw ambient air but there is no "control" It can't shut off both..its one or the other.
Say your low point is 8.3 and your high point is 8.7.
And the scrubber gets activated shifting the pH to above 8.3. So scrubbers off line but ambient is entering..continuously. So fine.. may never get to 8.7 because of atm CO2 entering the system.

But you aren't really controlling the CO2.
Guess its a matter of how one defines control.

Easiest to think of this in terms of acid/base control..
One adds base to combat low pH another adds acid to combat high pH.

Adds base below 8.3 then adds acid when above 8.7.. Adds nothing between 8.3 and 8.7.


You don't have a nothing position..
Why add air when you need nothing?

Okay got it. Thanks!

My tank without the Co2 scrubber hovers from 8.0-8.2 and touches 8.3 for a few hours during peak photosynthesis... I live in a 800sqf Manhattan condo with my girlfriend so the Co2 levels are sky high! I think by just drawing ambient air through the skimmer it will depress the Ph and act as the counter balance... or so I hope.

Regarding wiring is it as simple as buying a 115v power supply and matching red to red, black to black, and green to green?

 

[piranhaman00]

I have two motorized ball valves with barb fittings in 1/2 and 3/8 that are wired to the apex 24 volt connector if you’re interested. No additional wiring needed, plug and play

 

[Tuna Melt]

I have two motorized ball valves with barb fittings in 1/2 and 3/8 that are wired to the apex 24 volt connector if you’re interested. No additional wiring needed, plug and play

Ohh I'd be interested to take a look, can you link them?

 

[piranhaman00]

Ohh I'd be interested to take a look, can you link them?

Motorized Ball Valve- 3/4"...

 

[TehBrainz]

I have a 3 way motorized ball valve.

When pH gets low it rotates the ball such that I draw air through my scrubber, too high and it rotates to pull air from outside. Output is always going into the skimmer. It's a little loud when it activates and takes about 10s, but I don't mind

HSH-Flo 3 Way 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" 3/4" 1" 12V/24VAC/DC 110-240VAC L Type Auto Return Brass Electrical On/Off Motorized Ball Valve (1/2 inch, 110-240VAC) https://a.co/d/i0ZLzTe

Added a plug:
Legrand Pass & Seymour SA399BKCC10 Residential Straight Blade Plug 15-Amp 125-volt Two Pole Three Wire, Black (1 Count) https://a.co/d/8uwFtld

 

[Tuna Melt]

I have a 3 way motorized ball valve.

When pH gets low it rotates the ball such that I draw air through my scrubber, too high and it rotates to pull air from outside. Output is always going into the skimmer. It's a little loud when it activates and takes about 10s, but I don't mind

HSH-Flo 3 Way 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" 3/4" 1" 12V/24VAC/DC 110-240VAC L Type Auto Return Brass Electrical On/Off Motorized Ball Valve (1/2 inch, 110-240VAC) https://a.co/d/i0ZLzTe

Added a plug:
Legrand Pass & Seymour SA399BKCC10 Residential Straight Blade Plug 15-Amp 125-volt Two Pole Three Wire, Black (1 Count) https://a.co/d/8uwFtld

Awesome thank you, this is exactly what I'm going for, out of curiosity how hot does it get?

 

[TehBrainz]

Awesome thank you, this is exactly what I'm going for, out of curiosity how hot does it get?

It doesn't

 

[TehBrainz]

I'm not sure of the specifics, but my understanding is that a solenoid that uses electricity to turn the coils into an electronic magnetic to open the valve and subsequently heat up if left in an open position. The ball valves only uses electricity to power the motor to drive the valve open and go into "standby" when fully opened. Once power is off, the valve returns to starting position.

If you need fast cycling of the valve, use a solenoid, if not or the valve may be energized for extended periods of time use the electric ball valve

Also, measured mine and it takes ~8s

 

[JayM]

Okay got it. Thanks!

My tank without the Co2 scrubber hovers from 8.0-8.2 and touches 8.3 for a few hours during peak photosynthesis... I live in a 800sqf Manhattan condo with my girlfriend so the Co2 levels are sky high! I think by just drawing ambient air through the skimmer it will depress the Ph and act as the counter balance... or so I hope.

Regarding wiring is it as simple as buying a 115v power supply and matching red to red, black to black, and green to green?

The valve you linked to needs constant power to the red wire, constant ground to the black. Green will need power from an external source to provide switching from one port to the other. I personally would opt for the 12/24vdc option if it were me.

 

[Tuna Melt]

In terms of wiring this, the device has 5 wires and on the wiring chart it looks like there are three different circuits required here? Or am I over complicating this and I can just use the red/black valve?

 

[Tuna Melt]

In terms of wiring this, the device has 5 wires and on the wiring chart it looks like there are three different circuits required here? Or am I over complicating this and I can just use the red/black valve?

This one conversely just closes once powered off

U.S. Solid 3 Way 3/8'' Brass Motorized Ball Valve 9-24 V AC/DC - 3-Way Valve with Manual Function - Heavy Duty Multipurpose L Type Water Shutoff Valve - Standard Port https://a.co/d/4Qvuljj

 

[TehBrainz]

In terms of wiring this, the device has 5 wires and on the wiring chart it looks like there are three different circuits required here? Or am I over complicating this and I can just use the red/black valve?

Blue and yellow are if you need signal to tell you status of the valve. They're not used.

The second one would certainly work too. Not sure why that wasn't available when I bought. Maybe it was higher priced or not even available?