Help with plumbing

Bakedpwn

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So i drilled holes for a 60gal peninsula aqueon.
Return holes are for 1/2" bulkhead
Overflow is 1200gph Modular Marine with 3/4" bulkheads.
Sump is 40 gallon and i think it would be easiest to have return on the overflow side and the drain lines travel to the front of the peninsula.
So i see alot of people recommend bulkheads with threads on outside of tank so you can use pipe sealant with pfte to make things removable in the future. Im not sure the best, least wasteful way to pipe it.
For the returns do i get a threaded 90 degree with barb going down on each bulkhead to a barbed Tee to the pump?
For drains do i get threaded bulkheads? Are 90 degree fittings ok? like going down to one 90 degree then all the way over and another 90 degree down into sump?
I see alot use "donut" fittings but should those be slip x slip or threaded?
should i get a gate valve thats threaded or slip for drain?

the return pump is a controllable jebao dcw 6000
 

Idoc

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I'll attempt to answer some of the questions...I'm having a hard time getting a mental picture of what you are attempting to do though. I guess since you are mentioning that you are using 90 degree bulkheads, then you've drilled higher on the tank like for a ghost-overflow vs drilling the bottom of the tank.

Returns: I hard plumbed mine all the way to the return pump. But, if you are planning to use softer tubing between the pump and the bulkheads, then what you are proposing should work with the barbs.
Drains: The number of bulkheads is determined by the system you plan to run...BeanAnimal uses 3, I believe. I have not set up one of these systems, so probably best to let another answer this or just google that setup and see some descriptions of setups.
90 degrees: I've always attempted to not use 90 degree directional changes in my systems, but sometimes it is required...especially near bulkheads.
Gate valve: I used threaded gate valves...mainly because the good gate valves are expensive and I would like to re-use it in the future, if required. But, you need to be careful threading the pieces together so they do not crack.
 

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So i drilled holes for a 60gal peninsula aqueon.
Return holes are for 1/2" bulkhead
Overflow is 1200gph Modular Marine with 3/4" bulkheads.
Sump is 40 gallon and i think it would be easiest to have return on the overflow side and the drain lines travel to the front of the peninsula.
I would put the return pump on the easiest end to get to. IMO having the best access to the pump side of the sump is best. Drain lines going to the opposite side
So i see alot of people recommend bulkheads with threads on outside of tank so you can use pipe sealant with pfte to make things removable in the future. Im not sure the best, least wasteful way to pipe it.
Using a threaded bulkhead on the outside does allow you to remove the bulkhead if needed for a move. You never really realize how much you need this, until you don't have it.
For the returns do i get a threaded 90 degree with barb going down on each bulkhead to a barbed Tee to the pump?
For drains do i get threaded bulkheads? Are 90 degree fittings ok? like going down to one 90 degree then all the way over and another 90 degree down into sump?
90 degree fittings are fine.
I see alot use "donut" fittings but should those be slip x slip or threaded?
should i get a gate valve thats threaded or slip for drain?

the return pump is a controllable jebao dcw 6000
Donut fittings? You mean unions? Yes use lots of unions. This is another thing you need, but only miss them if you don't have them.
 
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ok thanks for the answers. yea it was alot cause i was very confused. I think bassically it comes down to where all do i want threads besides the bulkheads?
if i did threaded 90s then i would need so many adapters so i figure 90s are cheap enough.

i will get a picture of tank on stand later today. doing final trim now.

here is the back of my tanks and stand
 

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mfinn

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ok thanks for the answers. yea it was alot cause i was very confused. I think bassically it comes down to where all do i want threads besides the bulkheads?
if i did threaded 90s then i would need so many adapters so i figure 90s are cheap enough.
I would only do threads at the bulkheads and pumps.
Slip fit/glue for the rest.
 
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I would only do threads at the bulkheads and pumps.
Slip fit/glue for the rest.
o thats simple, what about the gate valve as its like 50 bucks? threaded gate valve or slip with threaded fittings?
 
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also when it says "slip on the flange/head side" thats the bulkhead i want to order. it doesnt show good pictures
 

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o thats simple, what about the gate valve as its like 50 bucks? threaded gate valve or slip with threaded fittings?
I would probably use glued fittings for valves, but try and leave room to ( in the future) be able to cut the pvc and attach a coupling to the valve to re-use it. I don't care for threaded fittings long term. They have a tendency to develop salt creep over time, even with paste. Some people like to stick with threaded fittings, I just like my glued joints better.

If you do use pvc glue and primer, use clear, and wipe your fresh glued joints as soon as they are set.
You would be surprised how messy it can get really fast.
 

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I would encourage you to avoid barbed fittings and soft tubing unless you increase the size of the tubing with reducers. Barbs are real flow killers because the ID is so much smaller than the pipe and you are aready are going with pretty small-bore piping.
 
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I would encourage you to avoid barbed fittings and soft tubing unless you increase the size of the tubing with reducers. Barbs are real flow killers because the ID is so much smaller than the pipe and you are aready are going with pretty small-bore piping.
Right so are you saying all pvc from the return or some sort of hybrid, like soft tube to a single barb to pvc rest of way?
 

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Right so are you saying all pvc from the return or some sort of hybrid, like soft tube to a single barb to pvc rest of way?
I would not use soft tubing. I would use all pvc. Return and drain.
In the past many of us would use soft tubing coming out of the return pump to help reduce the noise and vibration from older AC pumps. In this day and age, DC pumps are much quieter and have much less vibration noise. If you HAD to use soft tubing, just go the first 6" out of the pump.
 
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thanks! yea ive never used soft tubing so it didnt make as much sense to me
 
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I would not use soft tubing. I would use all pvc. Return and drain.
In the past many of us would use soft tubing coming out of the return pump to help reduce the noise and vibration from older AC pumps. In this day and age, DC pumps are much quieter and have much less vibration noise. If you HAD to use soft tubing, just go the first 6" out of the pump.
my pump only includes barbs of different sizes. it looks like a male 1.5 inch maybe without the barbs. should i find a female thread reducer to 3/4 thread then tee off to 1/2 inch at there?

its a jebao 6000 controllable pump
 

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I've never had to drop down in size that much before so I am just making an observation/suggestion.
Looking at a Jeabo 6000 on Amazon it looks like there are multiple outlets you could use. Is there a 3/4"? If there is, then I would run that as far as possible, then go to 1/2" through the bulkheads.
 

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Not familiar with the Jebao pumps, but you should be able to find a threaded male adapter to fit the pump and then a reducer bushing down to 3/4 or 1". You want a union near the pump. I would also run 3/4" pipe as returns. It is not that much more difficult and will give you a lot more flow. Half inch is really small, and I would not expect more than about 150-200 gph from each. Going larger will allow you to run the pump slower. Just reduce down at the bulk head to 1/2" I
 
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IMG20240101164919.jpg

Got the tank inside so you can see orientation
 
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The pump just comes with barbs
IMG20240101170922.jpg
 

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The simplest ( I think) would be to use the 3/4" supplied fittings to a short piece of soft tubing, to a threaded hose barb ( same size) and 3/4" pvc up to the tank and then go down to 1/2" for your bulkhead fittings.
If the company supplied those fittings to be used on that pump, then it must be ok. ( seems a little drastic, but who am I to question them . lol)
 

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