I know about the “ugly” stage of cycling but this is ridiculous.
- Thread starter glb
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99% of reefing says that's ok, wait longer.
1% has a twelve page thread on never ever letting that occur in a cycle
we're not in good ratio harmony yet for that not to have occurred
if that was my tank, all rocks are reset/cleaned back to normal, sand top layer pulled/rinsed and put back/hand gardening first round all set. Id use peroxide on the rock portion, that tank already has plenty bacteria to boot.
the algae takes longer to grow than the nitrifers do. its technically a ready reef now, we can either choose to let nature and CUC choose when its non eutrophic or we can command that ourselves as needed, I like to collect works where people disassembly clean their tanks and keep em sharp at all times-- till balances take over and work lessens. there hasn't been the right kind of guiding work on your tank
Im 1000% against any uglies phase in reefing, none of the 99% recommending it ever have to stick around to see tanks through to complete restoration.
we know that when opting to start a system with no coralline rock, no bio rejecting surfaces, that algae is coming regardless of params. bright white lighting reflecting everywhere fuels more algae, there's no purple yet.
purple surfaces are algae excluding by their design...we have to hand garden to get it to that phase. Its why Ill only reef w live rock still/old school, I don't have patience to hand guide bare rock
1% has a twelve page thread on never ever letting that occur in a cycle
we're not in good ratio harmony yet for that not to have occurredif that was my tank, all rocks are reset/cleaned back to normal, sand top layer pulled/rinsed and put back/hand gardening first round all set. Id use peroxide on the rock portion, that tank already has plenty bacteria to boot.
the algae takes longer to grow than the nitrifers do. its technically a ready reef now, we can either choose to let nature and CUC choose when its non eutrophic or we can command that ourselves as needed, I like to collect works where people disassembly clean their tanks and keep em sharp at all times-- till balances take over and work lessens. there hasn't been the right kind of guiding work on your tank
Im 1000% against any uglies phase in reefing, none of the 99% recommending it ever have to stick around to see tanks through to complete restoration.
we know that when opting to start a system with no coralline rock, no bio rejecting surfaces, that algae is coming regardless of params. bright white lighting reflecting everywhere fuels more algae, there's no purple yet.
purple surfaces are algae excluding by their design...we have to hand garden to get it to that phase. Its why Ill only reef w live rock still/old school, I don't have patience to hand guide bare rock
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OP
OP
glb
7500 Club Member
I have some coralline under there somewhere. Will the hair algae go away on its own if I just leave it? I don’t want to take out the rocks and clean them. The tank has been stable for a while and I don’t want to do anything drastic. I started with dry quarried rock and dry aragonite sand. Will it eventually die off? I’d prefer to let it run its course if at all possible.99% of reefing says that's ok, wait longer.
1% has a twelve page thread on never ever letting that occur in a cycle
if that was my tank, all rocks are reset/cleaned back to normal, sand top layer pulled/rinsed and put back/hand gardening first round all set. Id use peroxide on the rock portion, that tank already has plenty bacteria to boot.
the algae takes longer to grow than the nitrifers do. its technically a ready reef now, we can either choose to let nature and CUC choose when its non eutrophic or we can command that ourselves as needed, I like to collect works where people disassembly clean their tanks and keep em sharp at all times, till balances take over and work lessens.
Im 1000% against any uglies phase in reefing, none of the 99% recommending it ever have to stick around to see tanks through to complete restoration. they just advise then disappear
we know that when opting to start a system with no coralline rock, no bio rejecting surfaces, that algae is coming regardless of params. bright white lighting reflecting everywhere fuels more algae, there's no purple yet
purple surfaces are algae excluding by their design...we have to hand garden to get it to that phase. Its why Ill only reef w live rock still/old school, I don't have patience to hand guide bare rock setups.
Well, It’s chrystophytes.
Commonly seen in nutrient limited tanks. Po4 , most commonly.
@reeferfoxx , do you have that great Chrysto cure thread bookmarked by chance?
Commonly seen in nutrient limited tanks. Po4 , most commonly.
@reeferfoxx , do you have that great Chrysto cure thread bookmarked by chance?
it is fully ok to leave it in place and see what may suppress or consume it, that's the commoner way by a large margin for sure. GHA comes and goes in some tanks, never comes in others, and never goes in others, its a big mix unless we're frankly making it not occur by action of hand and medicine cabinet
ID of organism doesn't matter in my approach, the ID consists of this: do you like whats in your tank, if so, keep it. If you don't, rip it out and kill it so it doesn't take over. We don't tussle with nutrients, or ID in my threads. we only churn out clean pics
ID of organism doesn't matter in my approach, the ID consists of this: do you like whats in your tank, if so, keep it. If you don't, rip it out and kill it so it doesn't take over. We don't tussle with nutrients, or ID in my threads. we only churn out clean pics
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It’s becoming almost as common as Dino’s , the cause is the same basically. Nutrient limitation.
Some organisms need very little Po4. More than the good bacteria and other beneficial organisms.
So your bio filter is kinda shut down .
The usual treatment is manual removal , Po4 dosing and bacterial supplements.
Bio diversity can help once the levels are closer to a norm.
Im a Fiji mud (not miracle), advocate Myself. Or Garf grunge or both.
It’s one of the methods we used to fix the Revs tank from Dino’s.
Some organisms need very little Po4. More than the good bacteria and other beneficial organisms.
So your bio filter is kinda shut down .
The usual treatment is manual removal , Po4 dosing and bacterial supplements.
Bio diversity can help once the levels are closer to a norm.
Im a Fiji mud (not miracle), advocate Myself. Or Garf grunge or both.
It’s one of the methods we used to fix the Revs tank from Dino’s.
Agreed. Oddly though , it flourishes cuz it out competes the good bacteria.
It’s counter intuitive, but flooding it with food is the cure to promote bacteria that’s starving out
Hahah. Right!ok then, hit this tank with a bunch of feed and don't export it
Dana Riddle our fav lighting guy was a waste water engineer in Hawaii. He said he got called in a few gigs where the lagoons n outlets got clogged with stuff like this.
Pretty common I guess in fresh water streams and ponds too.
Shameless_Dood
Active Member
Put the panic button away. We tend to cause more problems when we panic and start making a bunch of changes. And believe me I have learned that the hard way....a couple times.
That being said I dont have experience with this particular issue. Theres a couple good suggestions to try in previous posts before you adopt a scorched earth policy.
OP
OP
glb
7500 Club Member
Thanks. I share your sentiment. If it will go away on its own I’d rather do that. I wasn’t able to brush it off with a toothbrush. I totally agree that the less drastic measure the better.Put the panic button away. We tend to cause more problems when we panic and start making a bunch of changes. And believe me I have learned that the hard way....a couple times.
That being said I dont have experience with this particular issue. Theres a couple good suggestions to try in previous posts before you adopt a scorched earth policy.
It’s kinda the same nutrient treatment as they do for Dino’s.
You can feed more , add bacteria, manual removal. (That’s scrubbing, peroxide in some cases , fluconazole ive seen etc ) to kill it , And wait it out. Kinda have to be diligent to that end.
Some will dose Po4 and do basically the same thing. Seems to be a bit faster.
If it wasn’t clear before , your trying to kill off the nasty stuff , and promote the growth of good bacterias and other organisms. Eventually by both competition and in the case of the Fiji mud / Garf grunge , aleipathy it’s been theorized to a small extent.
Both actually give your tank diverse corralines diatoms and other such lovely tiny tiny things.
Even cycno would be considered better in fact.
You can feed more , add bacteria, manual removal. (That’s scrubbing, peroxide in some cases , fluconazole ive seen etc ) to kill it , And wait it out. Kinda have to be diligent to that end.
Some will dose Po4 and do basically the same thing. Seems to be a bit faster.
If it wasn’t clear before , your trying to kill off the nasty stuff , and promote the growth of good bacterias and other organisms. Eventually by both competition and in the case of the Fiji mud / Garf grunge , aleipathy it’s been theorized to a small extent.
Both actually give your tank diverse corralines diatoms and other such lovely tiny tiny things.
Even cycno would be considered better in fact.
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