I know about the “ugly” stage of cycling but this is ridiculous.

Brew12

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How big is your CuC? It does look like there is some GHA in there with the Chrysto. Do you have anything that will eat it?
 

saltyfilmfolks

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I'm not convinced this is chrysos. BUT I've seen this before(not under a scope) and flucon or reef flux knocked it out quickly.
Thanks for the double Check.

Is actually like to see reef flux on chrytos. That stuff seems to kill every thing. Including Refugiums.
It’s diffent than the lab flucon ime
 

reeferfoxx

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Will reef flux hurt my fish or corals?
No it won't hurt your fish and as far as coral go, it depends on the system itself. I'm a firm believer that nutrients solve a lot of issues. I would seriously consider getting a good measurement of no3 and po4. If you are deficient in one or the other, you need to increase them. If you don't notice a change in the tank, then move on to reef flux. While using reef flux, make sure you have available nutrients and prepare to replenish copepods, amphipods, and phytoplankton. If in the off chance reef flux does impact the tank, replenishing microbial communities will help Dodge that bullet. That's how I would approach any chemical treatment.
 

Flippers4pups

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Well, It’s chrystophytes.

Commonly seen in nutrient limited tanks. Po4 , most commonly.

@reeferfoxx , do you have that great Chrysto cure thread bookmarked by chance?

Same thing happened to me when I set up my current system. Same. Took time to let it correct itself. About a year to be honest.

This is the reason I'll probably never just use dry rock for a build again.
 

saltyfilmfolks

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Same thing happened to me when I set up my current system. Same. Took time to let it correct itself. About a year to be honest.

This is the reason I'll probably never just use dry rock for a build again.
I think I’ll wind up just feeding like heck again. Scrub a little alage really. Qt corals better.
The current 55 was mostly dry, corralines came in months, and was solid purple after 9.
The last dry one I did I put half a can of Fiji mud in and ocean water. Never had a single problem.
Weird.

Although , I’m hoping the next one is aquacultured live. Fiji hopefully, Florida most likely.
 
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No it won't hurt your fish and as far as coral go, it depends on the system itself. I'm a firm believer that nutrients solve a lot of issues. I would seriously consider getting a good measurement of no3 and po4. If you are deficient in one or the other, you need to increase them. If you don't notice a change in the tank, then move on to reef flux. While using reef flux, make sure you have available nutrients and prepare to replenish copepods, amphipods, and phytoplankton. If in the off chance reef flux does impact the tank, replenishing microbial communities will help Dodge that bullet. That's how I would approach any chemical treatment.
Thanks. I have Salifert for nitrates and a Hanna checker for phosphates. Should I hold off on water changes to help raising nutrients?
 
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I think I’ll wind up just feeding like heck again. Scrub a little alage really. Qt corals better.
The current 55 was mostly dry, corralines came in months, and was solid purple after 9.
The last dry one I did I put half a can of Fiji mud in and ocean water. Never had a single problem.
Weird.

Although , I’m hoping the next one is aquacultured live. Fiji hopefully, Florida most likely.
Before I added the t5’s, the tank was fine. But I guess this was bound to happen at some point. Do you think the Nopox could have started this?
 
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I think I’ll wind up just feeding like heck again. Scrub a little alage really. Qt corals better.
The current 55 was mostly dry, corralines came in months, and was solid purple after 9.
The last dry one I did I put half a can of Fiji mud in and ocean water. Never had a single problem.
Weird.

Although , I’m hoping the next one is aquacultured live. Fiji hopefully, Florida most likely.
I actually do have healthy coralline under all of this.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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Right now is the ideal time to test rock

Take one rock, do it the way I mentioned

Put back among the others, chart which is better over next two weeks, upscale if impressed don't upscale if the others catch up w no work

The reason for test rocking is to discern anchored vs unanchored status of the invader... knowing about invader vs guessing lines you up for a win in case overall method causes more growth vs kills it off


Growback happens when the anchors aren't killed by the treatment, a single rock test preps battle options because you can knife scrape an area of the test rock to see how abrasion helps or not.

Test rock shows what sheer will to be uninvaded can do. If the test rock looks great after five days or so then it becomes a matter of simply wanting or not wanting the rest of the invasion. Test rock begins the taking command option, and we get to chart rebound growth after true work but on a small area so time isn't wasted
 
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saltyfilmfolks

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Before I added the t5’s, the tank was fine. But I guess this was bound to happen at some point. Do you think the Nopox could have started this?
Hard to say. Algaes and related organisms have soo many feeding strategies.
I really learned a lot about that with bryopsis. That’s a survivor for sure.
Starved the tank till the sps stopped growing and the zoas shrank.The bryo will actively capture organics in the feather feen structure and eat them basically.
So it’s possible this thing liked a lot of bacteria in the water.

I’m not a marine biologist, I just play one on Reef2Reef.

Lol.
But started it no. All algaes have to be introduced to a system. On coral , or like diatoms , in cysts.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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Tank invasion is a psychology, not a biology


Sounds silly now but we'll see one day :) anywhere I post those search return strategic snippets is to eventually fill in a big picture item.

If we had zero options to make this tank invasion free by this time tomorrow, it'd be a biological issue. But we do have ways, so we're opting in to the invasion/psych

We have to sell people on how to be uninvaded... Water tuning vs direct action schemes

more written sales psych, that's not biology.

Everything about invasion is now choice based... there are no true unbeatable invasions there's only degrees of compliance from the keeper regarding what they farm or not.

Locus of control psychology is the most important aspect of being uninvaded, we either impose a will on the tank or we go along for the ride and wait to see what may come... Internal v external loc

These pics show before n afters, with your type of invader in places. Shows patterns of easy initial kills... Then the organism quits trapping it's own food particles/detritus and self feeding etc. There are marked benefits to hand killing the invader vs waiting to any degree

https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/topic/268706-peroxide-saves-my-tank-with-pics-to-prove-it/?page=65
 
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reeferfoxx

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Thanks. I have Salifert for nitrates and a Hanna checker for phosphates. Should I hold off on water changes to help raising nutrients?
I don't think it would hurt either way as long as nutrients remain available.
 

Matt Carden

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It’s becoming almost as common as Dino’s , the cause is the same basically. Nutrient limitation.
Some organisms need very little Po4. More than the good bacteria and other benifical organisms.
I just looked up Fiji Mud and it seems to be discontinued.
So your bio filter is kinda shut down .

The usual treatment is manual removal , Po4 dosing and bacterial supplements.

Bio diversity can help once the levels are closer to a norm.
Im a Fiji mud (not miracle), advocate Myself. Or Garf grunge or both.
It’s one of the methods we used to fix the Revs tank from Dino’s.
 

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